Tinman1959
New member
Anyone have one to sell...or loan.
Can bring spindles to you.
I'm in the D.C. area.
Thanks!
Can bring spindles to you.
I'm in the D.C. area.
Thanks!
.814 spindle bushing reamer
- Thread starter Tinman1959
- Start date
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
I have one. Not that far away from you. Maybe 80-90 miles.
That's a deal. In NJ, they charge around $75 to do both spindles.
Check E-Bay for the tool. At one time, I had a bunch of these. They usually can be had for under $40.00. Just look out for broken or chipped teeth.
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
"Honing is the way to go"
"Honing is the way to go if you want them to last"
Great 'statements' Ol' Ron & Pete...but give us some clue as to why it's the way to go and why it lasts longer? What are some of the advantages of honing over reaming?
"Honing is the way to go if you want them to last"
Great 'statements' Ol' Ron & Pete...but give us some clue as to why it's the way to go and why it lasts longer? What are some of the advantages of honing over reaming?
Pete
BANNED
Very simple. You get an exact size hole. !00% bearing surface. Both bushings exactly in line.
Hand reaming with a questionable condition reamer, 70% at best.
Most people don't have a clue on the proper way to use a hand reamer so add
chatter marks, taper, bellmouth and different sizes on the 2 bushings..
Hand reaming with a questionable condition reamer, 70% at best.
Most people don't have a clue on the proper way to use a hand reamer so add
chatter marks, taper, bellmouth and different sizes on the 2 bushings..
Karl Wolf
Well-known member
Sunnen hone them... ONLY way to go. Have the shop leave them so that you can just move the pin by hand, tight...
If you use a reamer, do one bushing at a time, the most worn first. The other used and soon to be replaced bushing can be used as a guide- figure out what side of the old bushing is the unload side, use that as a guide to ream, then when you do the other one, the ream goes thru the first one to cut the second bushing- in alignment.
Karl
If you use a reamer, do one bushing at a time, the most worn first. The other used and soon to be replaced bushing can be used as a guide- figure out what side of the old bushing is the unload side, use that as a guide to ream, then when you do the other one, the ream goes thru the first one to cut the second bushing- in alignment.
Karl
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Thanks for the info.
I have what I considered a good quality reamer that has an alignment diameter that lines up through both bushing as it begins to ream. Cutting teeth are very sharp and not chipped. Has given me a nice fit with the new king pins that I have installed in '35 spindles. I'm not fortunate enough to own a fully equipped machine shop that includes a bushing hone but perhaps I can find a shop nearby that can do this at a reasonable price. Otherwise, I will keep reaming with what I have now.
I have what I considered a good quality reamer that has an alignment diameter that lines up through both bushing as it begins to ream. Cutting teeth are very sharp and not chipped. Has given me a nice fit with the new king pins that I have installed in '35 spindles. I'm not fortunate enough to own a fully equipped machine shop that includes a bushing hone but perhaps I can find a shop nearby that can do this at a reasonable price. Otherwise, I will keep reaming with what I have now.
I also have a Blue Point reamer like you are describing. It also came with a piece of round stock steel that is .814" (I'm assuming and have never actually measured it) in diameter. The piece goes through the both bushings and has a 1/2" nipple that you spin with a drill. It says it acts like a hone. I've done two sets with it and it seems to work pretty good.
I will say that diagram of the Sunnen hone does make sense, though.
Mart
Well-known member
Can someone give me a sanity check here. Ford kingpins are 13/16". That, in decimal inches comes to .8125.
So even if rounded, which it shouldn't be, it would be .813. Where does this .814 come from?
Speedway piss me off by rounding piston sizes and suchlike. Decimal inches should be expressed fully, not shortened, it just leads to confusion.
I remember a post (maybe on another forum) where someone was asking when ford increased the kingpin size by 1 thou. No, they didn't increase the kingpin size, someone just rounded the number differently.
Personally I don't have access to honing machines, and have found that a standard 13/16" reamer used as described by Karl Wolf above does a perfectly adequate job for the usage my cars get.
Mart.
So even if rounded, which it shouldn't be, it would be .813. Where does this .814 come from?
Speedway piss me off by rounding piston sizes and suchlike. Decimal inches should be expressed fully, not shortened, it just leads to confusion.
I remember a post (maybe on another forum) where someone was asking when ford increased the kingpin size by 1 thou. No, they didn't increase the kingpin size, someone just rounded the number differently.
Personally I don't have access to honing machines, and have found that a standard 13/16" reamer used as described by Karl Wolf above does a perfectly adequate job for the usage my cars get.
Mart.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I use a multi-flute align reamer that was made to do the job for my Mercury cars with the 15/16" pins. It does an excellent job with no signs of chatter like an adjustable. It's a long tool but it stays aligned and cuts really well. I cut until the pin will push in easily by hand but not fall out easily by its own weight. They last as long as factory.
The hones leave a bit of grit on any surface you use it on and especially soft metals. If there was a way to insure removal of all that grit I would have no problem with the hone idea in any way. On the old aircraft cylinders that were channel chrome plated, we used to have to brush them out real good & wash them with soap and water after honing to size. If this step was omitted, the piston rings wouldn't make it 500-hours before being worn out. A soft metal bushing will catch a fair amount of particles in its surface. I would brush them with a soft bristle brush (like a tooth brush) & soap and water after a hone job just to try and insure the bushing doesn't start lapping the pin during normal use.
The hones leave a bit of grit on any surface you use it on and especially soft metals. If there was a way to insure removal of all that grit I would have no problem with the hone idea in any way. On the old aircraft cylinders that were channel chrome plated, we used to have to brush them out real good & wash them with soap and water after honing to size. If this step was omitted, the piston rings wouldn't make it 500-hours before being worn out. A soft metal bushing will catch a fair amount of particles in its surface. I would brush them with a soft bristle brush (like a tooth brush) & soap and water after a hone job just to try and insure the bushing doesn't start lapping the pin during normal use.
I've had a king pin reamer in the basement shop for years but have never used it. Today I went to take a look at it and the findings might surprise a few of you. It is the typical early Ford bushing driver/reamer combo, still in the box with the brief instruction sheet. The cutting flutes have a tapered lead ground on them so I can't accurately measure that diameter but the smallest dia. must be something like .801. The lead is around 1/4" in length and then the flutes are straight with a dia. of .8135. The dia. of the pilot is .7985 so the pilot is a full .015 smaller than a reamed bushing. Also the pilot is 4 5/16" in length.
I did not check the ID of an installed, uncut bushing so I do not know how well the pilot fits, but after reaming the first you naturally remove the reamer, and reinsert into the other side of the spindle to cut the second bushing. That is where the trouble lies, you are now piloting with a diameter .015 smaller than the reamed bushing and in the case of the later '42-'48 square back spindle the 4 5/16" length just barely puts the pilot in the bushing as you start the cut. To me it looks like it is very difficult to ensure that those reamed bushings will be in line.
A new Moog pin checks at .812 and shows a bit of taper toward the bottom half at .8118 so with a new pin and a perfect ream job we would see .0015 clearance. It may be the clearance that aids the pin fit, if in fact the reamed holes are misaligned.
I've always had k/p's fitted by honing on a Sunnen, the holes are in line and I like a tighter fit than that .0015 clearance, but that is just my own preference.
Question for Tim Ayers, are you sure the 1/2" diameter nipple is for chucking in a drill? The reamer I have has a 7/16" dia. turned down at the end of the pilot and the bushing driver fits on that to be used to remove/install bushings. The other end (near the reamer flutes) has wrench flats for manual turning of the reamer.
I did not check the ID of an installed, uncut bushing so I do not know how well the pilot fits, but after reaming the first you naturally remove the reamer, and reinsert into the other side of the spindle to cut the second bushing. That is where the trouble lies, you are now piloting with a diameter .015 smaller than the reamed bushing and in the case of the later '42-'48 square back spindle the 4 5/16" length just barely puts the pilot in the bushing as you start the cut. To me it looks like it is very difficult to ensure that those reamed bushings will be in line.
A new Moog pin checks at .812 and shows a bit of taper toward the bottom half at .8118 so with a new pin and a perfect ream job we would see .0015 clearance. It may be the clearance that aids the pin fit, if in fact the reamed holes are misaligned.
I've always had k/p's fitted by honing on a Sunnen, the holes are in line and I like a tighter fit than that .0015 clearance, but that is just my own preference.
Question for Tim Ayers, are you sure the 1/2" diameter nipple is for chucking in a drill? The reamer I have has a 7/16" dia. turned down at the end of the pilot and the bushing driver fits on that to be used to remove/install bushings. The other end (near the reamer flutes) has wrench flats for manual turning of the reamer.
Question for Tim Ayers, are you sure the 1/2" diameter nipple is for chucking in a drill? The reamer I have has a 7/16" dia. turned down at the end of the pilot and the bushing driver fits on that to be used to remove/install bushings. The other end (near the reamer flutes) has wrench flats for manual turning of the reamer.[/QUOTE]
You know, that is good point. The shop I got it from said it was for honing the bushings. The doesn't appear to be any impact to the "large" end so, if it is really a bushing driver, no one ever used it for the purpose.
You know, that is good point. The shop I got it from said it was for honing the bushings. The doesn't appear to be any impact to the "large" end so, if it is really a bushing driver, no one ever used it for the purpose.
I'd assume for clearance maybe?
