MALAK
Senior Member
I'm helping a friend get his 31 PU running so he can sell it. http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82064
A compression check and pulling the head revealed all 4 exhaust valve burnt. I have some extra, serviceable, valves and the tools to do a quality valve job. He doesn't want to spend a bunch of money so I thought we could just do a routine valve job, get her running, and see how it goes.
This is turning out to be anything but routine!
I've taken apart plenty of Model A engines but have never run across this: Removing the valve springs I notice they seem a bit shorter/heaver than stock but don't really pay this much attention. Also, the exh spring retainers have 2 flats, they're oval, not round. Again don't pay this much attention.
Now the problem: Lift the valve to insert guide removal tool and the valve won't lift high enough to allow the tool to be inserted. A little hillbilly engineering (no offense to hillbilly's) and I was able to get most (not all) the valves/guides out with a homemade tool.
Look at the attached pics of the removed valve compared to a stock and also the lifters installed in this particular engine. The valves are almost ½" shorter than stock and the lifters are an equal distance longer than stock. Also, the valves have a flange on the stem just under the valve head similar to an early V8.
As I contemplated/cursed this setup I thought this must have been some kind of aftermarket kit since it uses adjustable lifters and ******* valves. However cleaning the valve head off revealed it's Ford Script.
Someone please tell me if they've seen this before? More importantly what are my options as far as doing a valve job on this engine, inexpensively?
Does anyone make valves this length? Or does anyone have 4 valves like this they could part with? I've also contemplated replacing the adjusters with machined down grade 8 bolts to reduce to height of the lifters to near stock and then grinding new valves for clearance (a little more work than I'd like to put into this). If someone makes or has some valves like this it seems like a better (and simpler) option.
The engine in this PU also has a peculiar SN, one too many digits and no stars. At first I thought this must be a Diamond engine but it is not. It must have been a replacement engine but what's with the extra digit?
A compression check and pulling the head revealed all 4 exhaust valve burnt. I have some extra, serviceable, valves and the tools to do a quality valve job. He doesn't want to spend a bunch of money so I thought we could just do a routine valve job, get her running, and see how it goes.
This is turning out to be anything but routine!
I've taken apart plenty of Model A engines but have never run across this: Removing the valve springs I notice they seem a bit shorter/heaver than stock but don't really pay this much attention. Also, the exh spring retainers have 2 flats, they're oval, not round. Again don't pay this much attention.
Now the problem: Lift the valve to insert guide removal tool and the valve won't lift high enough to allow the tool to be inserted. A little hillbilly engineering (no offense to hillbilly's) and I was able to get most (not all) the valves/guides out with a homemade tool.
Look at the attached pics of the removed valve compared to a stock and also the lifters installed in this particular engine. The valves are almost ½" shorter than stock and the lifters are an equal distance longer than stock. Also, the valves have a flange on the stem just under the valve head similar to an early V8.
As I contemplated/cursed this setup I thought this must have been some kind of aftermarket kit since it uses adjustable lifters and ******* valves. However cleaning the valve head off revealed it's Ford Script.
Someone please tell me if they've seen this before? More importantly what are my options as far as doing a valve job on this engine, inexpensively?
Does anyone make valves this length? Or does anyone have 4 valves like this they could part with? I've also contemplated replacing the adjusters with machined down grade 8 bolts to reduce to height of the lifters to near stock and then grinding new valves for clearance (a little more work than I'd like to put into this). If someone makes or has some valves like this it seems like a better (and simpler) option.
The engine in this PU also has a peculiar SN, one too many digits and no stars. At first I thought this must be a Diamond engine but it is not. It must have been a replacement engine but what's with the extra digit?