Por 15

For carburetors, POR 15 Gloss & POR Semi-Gloss, are not flat enough for an authentic appearance.

To produce a flatter sheen, one can rub the finish with a mild abrasive such (2) 00 steel wool or a red fabric type scouring pad that one uses at the kitchen sink --neither will cut deeply into the finish.

This POR 15 base product is tougher than normal paint; for example, if one painted the bolts for the brake backing plates, the bolts will not easily fit in the bolt holes. With a wire wheel on a mandrel turned by an electric motor, one has a time to wear the POR off of the shank of the bolt.

Bolts with new raven finishes will rust rapidly in humid climates -- place said bolts & nuts first in a 1:8 solution of POR Marine Clean : water; rinse with water, dry; then soak overnight in POR Prep & Ready, rinse, dry & paint with POR 15.

POR technicians say some painters try to clean metal & substitute soap in lieu of POR Marine Clean -- soap leaves a film in the pores not compatable with POR 15.

Hope this helps!
 
Wow, when I started this tread I never intended to ignite a fire storm of bitterness and hate.
I just wanted a little advise, which is something that I love about Ford barn. "Plenty of helpful information shared between fine folks with a common interest". I feel as if I might as well had posted that I'm pulling the perfectly good motor out & throwing it in the river and replacing it with a small block chevy. Oh and by the way I'm chopping the top 4 inches!
I read plenty of testimonies on different sites about different products and from what I was able to find, the POR 15 product seemed to fit my needs. I hope that I'm not disapointed. If I am then I promise I will be quick to post as such on this same thread. If afterwards I am satisfied then that to will be posted. But in the mean time, Can't we just get along.
 
I've used por-15 for years and found it works best if you use their metal ready
(acid) first. I also found it won't stay on anything that isn't cleaned properly first. Preparation is very important. I live right on the coast of north Ca. where rust even gets to plastic. Gary
 
"Wow, when I started this tread I never intended to ignite a fire storm of bitterness and hate.
I just wanted a little advise, which is something that I love about Ford barn. "

Lance, there's no bitterness and hate in this thread, except fot the hate of a worthless product. Just stating our opinions based on experience. POR 15 might serve a usefull purpose on an oil rig in salt water, but it will never serve a usefull purpose on my cars. PPG paints will still be looking good a long time after I'm gone.
 
POR is very overpriced. A similar, reliable, moisture curing product is Chassis Saver from Magnet paints.
http://magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
I bought a can of POR clear and it performed horribly, I will never buy their products again.
I am convinced the oil rig story is BS
It cannot lock drain plugs etc in place.

And be aware that 'testimonials', which someone was seeking, even our own here in this thread, are not scientific and are considered to be a form of propaganda (look it up). Only a study on multiple vehicles over several years under varying environmental conditions by an independent agency can be considered scientific. Which is way too expensive for any company to pay for, thus the oil rig story.

Try it if you wish. If you like it, wonderful. Good luck, and hold onto your wallet.
 
Last edited:
If anyone read my links, you should have learned something. POR is a good top coat. I would never apply it directly to metal. I have seen it fail this way. If you like the look and protection, and want to paint something with it, go for it. Just put something else over the bare, clean or rusted metal. A proper primer . . whoops. I'm saying too much. Read gents . . . .
 
PetesPonies: I'd like to read your links, but they take me to my iGoogle page. Not sure what's happening, but I'm not getting to your info.
 
Lance,


Agree with Tom, i.e., no bitterness & no hate --just firm, honest opinions.


If one goes back to the archives of the other Forum, (?? the other guys ??), I mentioned above, many of these same likes & dislikes with POR 15 were discussed.


I really enjoyed Vince's very "adamant" line above which terminated with the blue face.


POR 15 is not an easy product to use & If one feels he does not need it, or dislikes it, no problem. each to his own.


Also as mentioned above, vehicle location is important.


For example, military vehicles at the old Camp Leroy Johnson near Seabrook Bridge on Lake Pontchartrain needed constant steel brush removal of rust & touch-up painting "every" year prior to a military I.G. inspection because of nearby salt water mist.

Four (4) inches of salt water from splashing waves on the nearby street played havoc with the wheels, chassis, & undercarriage of even a high deuce-and-a-half frame.


One trip in one's Model A to Hopedale, La., Pilot Town, La. or any similar coastal area where the high tides of the Gulf of Mexico unexpectly cover the highway frequently with salt water, can easily give one rust fits.


On the other hand, at Toele Army Depot near Salt Lake City, thousands of Korean war vehicles were parked in this arid region "as is" directly from the battle fields & they have no harmful rust.


In my lifetime I have witnessed our neighbor's 1935 Chrysler Coupe, a 1930 Chevrolet, & several other vintage vehicles & tractors go to waste with multiple layers of dust & moisture in this area -- even saw a guy just throw away (4) doors a few years ago for a 1932 Ford that were in a barn with a damp dirt floor -- I remember when these doors were like new.

A constant one foot deep water table does not exist all over the U.S.


If rust was never a concern in their areas, like Vince & Tom, I would never use POR 15 either.


Like Gary's comment above, I always used POR Metal Prep, (recently renamed POR Prep & Ready) to convert rust as opposed to applying products on un-prepared rust.
 
The links to google are my comments and information about POR , Master Series and moisture cured paints. I have posted so many times on this subject for many years, I am almost tired from going into it again :) This, I posted the google hits. Click on a few and read them. Some of them I posted a lot of info.
 
I haven't tried this with Por-15, but I have used it on all the other paints I use.
After pouring the amount of paint needed as I am closeing the lid I shoot in some
nitrogen into the can to displace the air in it. I have paint that is 30yrs and older
that is still good using this method.
 
Hey Vince, can you share some info on the ultrsonic cleaner?

Size, cost, how to operate?

I used to get some oil coolers cleaned that way at Holman-Moody, but they would not let me in that particular room.

Thanks.
 
Vince,
The snake oil I got turned on to is Oxy-solve, great at de-rusting plus my coupe has been bare for 15 years and not a sign of rust bloom. Unfortunately it is no longer available. Does Evapo-rust sound like the same stuff?

GW
 
gweilbaker said:
Vince,
The snake oil I got turned on to is Oxy-solve, great at de-rusting plus my coupe has been bare for 15 years and not a sign of rust bloom. Unfortunately it is no longer available. Does Evapo-rust sound like the same stuff?

GW
Click to expand...

GW
Please tell me that this bare coupe that you mention is not a driver and is stored in a climate controlled environment. I've received bare metal parts by mail and only opened the box to check its contents before placeing it in my garage (still in the box) and by the weekend can find evidence of rust beginning to form.
 
I have been using Evaporust for a number of years, mainly on small items like carburetors and distributors. It contains an iron chelating agent, so there is no corrosive or electrolytic process. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and can be re-used many times before its iron chelating strength is depleted. I have toyed with the idea of buying the chemical in bulk and mixing my own.
 
Could Evaporust be the same as molasses, or beet juice?

I used to see sellers of beet juice rust remover at swap meets, and I think it was called "RUSTBEETER".
 
It is in a garage but not climate controlled, in the spring the warm air condensates on it, no rust. Oxy-solve left a protective coating of some sort, I think zinc. I only used it on sheet metal so I didn't have Vince's experience. It didn't effect my skin either but that might be due to my good looks and young age.
 
Por 15 sticks to cement good ---the spilled drops won't come off the cement, the front crossmember it came off in sheets ---I had to remove a bolt in the crossmember, 4 square inches came off with it, most of the rest with a scraper, surface was prepared , was never outside, on another car the area under windshield was done with por15, topcoated --rust bubbles came back in a year---sandblasted the remainder off, welded up holes, treated with picklex 20, epoxy primer, --now 7 years later no rust bubbles

I have been using "picklex20" on freshly blasted parts --some parts prepped with it have been hanging for years without rust waiting for some repairs, I like it because you can sandblast a group of small parts, treat them and not prime ---when you have enough to prepped to make it worthwhile to mix primer ----some parts wait for months in the winter for painting temps in a unheated room ----the hubcap in the picture has been hanging out in a unheated room for 5 years, the treated surface welds better than bare metal

I first bought por15 when it was the new miracle, bought a gallon, filled the rockers of my Citroen shook it and rolled it to coat the inside--nothing I can do about it now , the other things painted with it either got redone,or don't matter(shelves)----it does stick good to cement---no peeling there(lower right corner of pic)

--interesting link to comparisons of different rust treatments-- http://www.picklex20.com/1142290.html
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0149.JPG
    IMG_0149.JPG
    110.7 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_0008.JPG
    IMG_0008.JPG
    187.4 KB · Views: 18
I like the performance of Master Series Paints over Por 15. I perfer to use a good paint system like PPG verus por 15 or Master Series products.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top