Banjo Rear end help

V

Vtachtom

Junior Member
hi guys
i bought my first hot rod about a year ago and frankly is all i think about nowadays. I just got done building my first flatty and now in the process of going threw my entire drive train.

I am running a 59A flatty with Offy heads and triple 97's ...my best guess is that is running about 180 HP. i have a 39 ford three speed.

Its time now for me to dive into my torque tube and rear end. i want to make it freeway frendly so i am gonna swtich out my 4:11's

I have never done a banjo rear end before and i am finding limited info on how to do it. I found a great tutorial on the HAMB. I was hoping to find someone in SO cal that has done this a few times to show me the ropes of ford banjo's. I am less interested in you doing it then learning how to do it myself. Compensation for your time is something we can talk about for sure.

thanks in advanced Tom
 
Joe Longobardi in Temple City does this all the time.818-287-1836.Another guy is Dan in Temecula 951-302-5922.Unless you have a blower on your flatty I don't think its putting out 180hp.
 
There is a good illustrated rebuild and set-up guide on the HAMB in the tech archives.
Ford instructions on set-up are in the bulletins...the earlier versions were covered in about 1928 and 1933 bulletins, late banjo in 1938 or 9. Don't fight it---you need bulletins for your early Ford!
Try to use original good used gears for easy setup.
Pinion depth is meant to be fixed but typically needs adjustment on aftermarket gears, mesh and preload are set by the side gaskets. Good stock parts will usually set up right with the standard 010 (I think) gaskets, some may require a trial and error thrash with the several thicknesses available. Easiest to set toal gasket thickness befor pinion goes in, then if pinion mesh isn't right you add thickness on one side and subtract on other to keep preload while moving ring gear over.
(a PS...do not tap side holes on banjo and keep original bolts. This stuff is a class 3 or 4 fit to prevent leaks. Clean everything with brushes and solvent, rework threads only if actually damaged as a common tap will loosen the fit.)
 
Pinion bearing preload is made simple with a bench vise. Shaft down in the vise, spin the banjo with both hands hard. Correct preload will turn the banjo less than one full revolution after release.
 
Awsome guys thanks so much for the infor. this website is invaluable for a newbie trying to learn stuff. i will dive into it and let ya know how it went.

To duece lover... no blower on my flatty i was just going off what mike herman was telling me over at h7H in lacresenta. he help build it and I told him i wanted a runner not a racer. he was saying it was prob putting out about 160 to 180. i just didnt want to change from the OG set up i have. Thanks again.
 
Vtachtom said:
Awsome guys thanks so much for the infor. this website is invaluable for a newbie trying to learn stuff. i will dive into it and let ya know how it went.

To duece lover... no blower on my flatty i was just going off what mike herman was telling me over at h7H in lacresenta. he help build it and I told him i wanted a runner not a racer. he was saying it was prob putting out about 160 to 180. i just didnt want to change from the OG set up i have. Thanks again.
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If H&H built your engine you will have a good one! Regarding horsepower, it's a bit redundant with regard to flatheads, torque is more important, but anyways I think 160 would be more realistic than 180. You have to remember that when Ford specified an engine was 100hp, they were being very optimistic and pulling the numbers seemingly out of thin air. A 100hp engine is more likely putting out 85hp in real terms. See JWL's book for hundreds of dyno pulls, from stock to bored and stroked.
 
thanks Bassman
i am not worried about HP per say. I just wanted a little get up and go on the freeway. I just asked Mike if he would build me a somthing reliable and fun. i am not worried about going fast yet. That will be the next one. thanks for the comments.
 
elwood said:
there extra easy, and speedway has gears
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As long as original genuine Ford gears are available, and they ARE available, why would any knowledgeable person go with new gears? Nothing against Speedway or any other supplier, but the Ford gears have the reputation of excellence. As for any other consideration including cost, absolutely nothing trumps Made In America 70 Years Ago.

And Elwood, once I learned how to tie my own shoes, I considered that job to be "extra easy" also.
 
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