question about Tillotson carbs

james hitchcock

james hitchcock

Well-known member
I have these two carbs and I'm 99% sure they're Tillotson. No markings other than made in U.S.A. One has quite a larger bowl. Can someone tell what types they are. I'd like to know more about the one with the larger bowl.
Thanks.
James.
 

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First pic carb on the right is Tilitson Model X. The other is a Marvel brand. Both good carbs.
 
james hitchcock said:
I have these two carbs and I'm 99% sure they're Tillotson. No markings other than made in U.S.A. One has quite a larger bowl. Can someone tell what types they are. I'd like to know more about the one with the larger bowl.
Thanks.
James.
Click to expand...
The Marvel Carburetor on the left was a popular replacement and was sold by Ford as a replacement after the Zenith A and B carburetors were no longer made. I believe that Sears also sold them. I remember when almost every model A that I saw had one. I have run them many years ago and if in good condition they ran as good or better than any . The main problem was they are pot metal and warp and leak vacume, the threads are prone to strip out at the flange. I use to have to use longer bolts with nuts to hold some of them on. I notice that the one in the picture is missing the ckoke needle driver. Nobody makes the needle driver and about the only parts that I know of that can be found is gaskets. I have heard of some adapting a Zenith needle driver assy. but usually if the needle driver is missing they are mostly considered good for parts only.

The tillotson pictured on the right will probably be your best bet. It appears to be a model X there was another model XF that was sold by Ford up in to the 70s and another with no model letters other than USA . They are all the same and parts are available from most if not all the model A vendors. I notice that the one pictured has the mounting bolts still in the flange. Hopefully this means that the flange threads are intact. I remember when using this type carb if the flange threads stripped on the front hole and you had to use a longer bolt and nut, you would have to find a thin nut or file one down. These carbs are VERY prone to warp. Be sure and check the flange with a straight edge from bolt hole to bolt hole and look for sag in the middle. Some can be filed to level. if the flange is not perfectly flat it will leak vacume. it will cause popping, it won't idle and it will quit running when you apply the brakes. Maybe you won't have all of these problems but I am just letting you know what can happen with these pot metal carbs. Good luck.
 
I've noticed there are quite a few guys on here with short fuses. I only did the bump as a try . I had an earlier post asking what btt actually meant and gave it a try. If this put a burr under anyone else's butt I truly apologize. Next time someone doesn't think my post should receive serious consideration, please just refrain from comment.
 
I got a Model X that I carry in my trunk as a spare. I replaced it with a Zenth, I couldn't tell any change in performance. It must be warped because it had a load of gaskets under it, as for short fuses I use to have one until I remarried, new wife goes off so fast that mine don't even have time to get warm:)

Staying calm in WV
dusty
 
Thanks Dusty, I guess I shouldn't let some of these guys get to me.
There are a good bunch of guys on this site.

Calmed down
James.
 
Only a suggestion, if you have a warped tillie put a large water pump clamp around the 2 halfs and draw it up very tight; when the wife is gone, put it in the oven at 350 for 1/2 hour; take out and let cool. It works. I also have installed heli coils to correct stripped threads.

Ron
 
when rebuilding a Tilly,the gasket between the 2 halfs...set it on the top half and make sure the center hole is not blocked by the gasket. Most gaskets cover up 1/2 this hole. Trim the gasket.
To remove the welch plug (sometimes) blow air thru the idle screw hole,covering the other holes with your fingers. Plug blows right out...sometimes.
I use a 22. gun cleaning brush to clean/polish the needle valve brass.
The lead plugs I replace with Lead Split shot. Cooking the carb with hose clamps works great.
The NEW Yellow book on Tilly carbs is great!
Wick
 
A choke/GAV driver for the hex shafts can be made.Use a cheapie 1/4 drive deep socket.I say cheapie because you can cut it off with a hacksaw.You can bore a stock Zenith driver (if needed) to take it.You can weld,braze,or even JB weld it in.I am not a big fan of using anything in a tube to hold things together,but this is a case where it would do no harm.
 
With pot metal carburetors, use longer cap screws at the manifold connection. The usual screws used with Zenith carburetors are too short and can ruin the threads of the pot metal carburetors. The threads in the pot metal carbs are made longer on purpose because of the weakness of the metal.
 
Sorry Vince to take it wrong. I've encountered a few comments from others and I guess it got me a little sensitive. I do like to kid around, Ive just noticed that some never have a good thing to say no matter what is done. They just like to be negative.
Once again sorry I took it wrong.
James.
 
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