32 Axle & Spring Perch Questions

LeroyM

LeroyM

Senior Member
Is anyone making repro 32-34 spring perches with the round ball shock link?

I've heard different numbers stated on the 32 axle. Is it 1 1/2" or 2" inches dropped or lower then a Model A axle from the factory?

If a Model A axle was dropped the same amount as a factory 32 axle would 32-34 spring perches be a direct bolt on and allow everything else to bolt up and work from the Model A?
 
A 32 to 36 axle will lower a stock A 1 3/4".

The 34 perch bolts may be to short for the thicker ( 2 1/4" v 2" ) A axle.
 
So if you were to use a 33 to 36 axle would you also use the 33 to 36 spring perches?

Is this a direct bolt on with the Model A mechanical brakes and wishbone?

If not what has to be changed?
 
NealinCA said:
A 33-36 axle is the same configuration as a 32 axle...just not as "heavy" of a forging.

You would get the same drop as a 32 axle and still need to use 32-34 perches...or extend a pair of Model A's.

Here's a little write up I did a few years ago...

http://www.hopupmag.com/index.php?/weblog/article/108/

Neal
Click to expand...


Neal,

I checked out the article you wrote. You said you used a 32 main leaf spring and 32 shackles along with the other parts. Is there a reason why you can't use the Model A reverse eye spring and shackles?

Do you have any pictures or links of Model A's with fender running this setup so I can see how it looks?
 
I was just about to answer your email...brought in the hardware to scrutinize.
I have right here until my boss comes along a Model A perch and a Model 40 '33-4 perch, which is the service replacement for a '32 and dimensionally interchangeable.
Thickness need will be based more on your wishbone than axle...you will shim the axle there but bone will be same thickness for perch.
Forgings were made in many dies, and will be found to vary a bit, but holes should have same spacings.
Putting the two side by side with the line at max diameter of the cone that enters top of wishbone, the two seem to be within less than 1/32 of the same length down there...'34 the shorter but almost indistinguishable dif. Bottoms of cones also align, threads start veryvery close to same place.
Placing the two cheek-to-cheek, the shackle holes are on same center location...V8 is bigger of course.
Balls for shock absorber are pretty close to same level, V8 one extends about one inch farther over than A.
Brake linkage bolt is likely the measure you need the most...hard to compare, but I would say V8 is right about 1 3/4" higher.
Remember '32 axle is not just dropped more, brakes are 12" rather than 11.
Suiggestion: Boltittogether by using '32-4 front brakes. Same basic design as A, but not only larger, they come with excellent cast iron vented drums., like the 1931 A so-called Rocky Mountains...which are nearly unfindable.
 
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LeroyM said:
Neal,

I checked out the article you wrote. You said you used a 32 main leaf spring and 32 shackles along with the other parts. Is there a reason why you can't use the Model A reverse eye spring and shackles?

Do you have any pictures or links of Model A's with fender running this setup so I can see how it looks?
Click to expand...

The shackles are different bore size for Model A and 32-34. Model A are 11/16 and 32-34 are 3/4 in the perch and 7/8 in the spring. Most aftermarket 28-34 reverse eye springs are 3/4". You just need to make sure you can get shackles to fit the perch and spring. We used original style 32 shackles, so we needed the 32 mainleaf.

Neal
 
alert...alert..alert
i just spent 8 hours of my life trying to figure this out
1) 33-34 axle
2) 32 spindle
3) reversed eye model a spring
4) model a kingpin
5) model a brake actuator
6) 32 spring perch
7) 1/4in spacer (important)on the top of the axle
8) model a shackles
these are the components you need to make it work
i will post pics tomorrow
tk
 
ok so here are some pictures
the first one is of the car at iola before i bought it from my dad..thats me in the blue shirt in the chair
37.jpg

the next ones are of how it looked today. i need to add the leafs back into the spring, and i will be running a 550-16 front. also a t rear spring with a 700-18. there is no way that you can run the 21"wheel with this set up. yes i still need to put in the cotter pins and other misc stuff but i just wanted to get this up here to see the combo of parts that i used to make it work....dropped axle pfffft. lol
DSC01460.jpg


DSC01459.jpg
 
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Looks good, thanks for the pictures. Any reason why you're going to add the leaves back to the spring? Is it going to be to low if not? Also which leaf springs did you remove and how many?

I had 10 leafs in my reverse eye spring from Snyder's and I took out springs 2, 3 & 4 from the top of the pack.
 
The difference between the examples I measured above is FAR less than 1/4, less than a 32nd. Probably because of thickness differences in wishbone end forgings.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
The difference between the examples I measured above is FAR less than 1/4, less than a 32nd. Probably because of thickness differences in wishbone end forgings.
Click to expand...

i had to torque on mine a little it to get everything to slide in. it deffinatly wasn't something that i would worry about if/when i do it again
tk
also bruse, where can i get your new book?
 
LeroyM said:
Looks good, thanks for the pictures. Any reason why you're going to add the leaves back to the spring? Is it going to be to low if not? Also which leaf springs did you remove and how many?

I had 10 leafs in my reverse eye spring from Snyder's and I took out springs 2, 3 & 4 from the top of the pack.
Click to expand...


i think its just toooo soft
i am worried about hitting the tierod on the oil pan
but my spring is an origional and the aftermarket springs seem to be stiffer all around
tk
 
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