Perch nut concern

I am posting pictures of both perch bolts. They look like original Ford parts to me or very good replacement parts. The first picture, as you can see, is the one with the perpendicular cotter hole in it. The other one has the cotter pin hole parallel to the axle. What do you think, Kevin?
Rusty

Passengersideperch_zps2f9f1aa5.jpg


Driverssideperch_zpsbf52f086.jpg
 
I have one "A" with original perches & the other with repro perches.The originals & my NOS spare have the cotter hole in line with the axle & the repros have the hole @ 90* to axle.The repros are at least 1/8" fatter in all areas above the axle.The cotter holes in repros are about 1/8" lower than the originals. One time I had a severe shudder in the RF brake when applied.It turned out that the RH perch nut was loose & allowed RH of axle to flex back & forth a bit in radius rod.While the nut was not tight,it was siezed so tight on the perch that I had to carefully slice off the side of the nut with out damaging the threads.The nut was worn on the taper anyways so I used Never Sieze & tightened new nut with the impact wrench & its been fine since.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
Take a picture of the tops of the perches.

The repros I have seen are stocky around the shackle hole and look different.

The originals are slender and well look real.
Click to expand...

I find the same thing as Kevin as far as repro perches.
Looking at Rusty's last pictures, I think both are repro parts.
My cotter holes run left and right, and the large part of the taper on the upper part which sets into the wishbone is barely visible, where Rusty's has about 1/8" thickness showing.
 
I think we have pretty much settled on the direction of the cotter pin holes in original parts - parallel to the axle. Now for a little history of the frontend. I have had this frontend for nearly 50 years - maybe only 45 years, but a very long time (that shows how ancient I am). Before that, it sat in someone yard under a frame and Sept 28 roadster body for a long time in the gravel without an engine in it. That means that the perch bolts are probably in the neighborhood of 60 years old. If the perch bolts are replacement parts, they were probably well US made. I agree the passenger side is probably a replacement part made over 50 years ago and possibly the drivers side, even though it has the cotter pin hole parallel to the axle. I really can't tell the difference between my perches and the pictures in the Judging Guidelines. I think the perch bolts are US made and will function perfectly. If the perches were cruddy repros, I would get another frontend or replace the perches. I think the perches are fine except for the cotter holes. I hope to either shim them or cut them off and redrill the cotter holes (cutting them off and redrilling is probably the best option).
Rusty Nelson
 
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wrndln said:
I am posting pictures of both perch bolts. They look like original Ford parts to me or very good replacement parts. The first picture, as you can see, is the one with the perpendicular cotter hole in it. The other one has the cotter pin hole parallel to the axle. What do you think, Kevin?
Rusty

Passengersideperch_zps2f9f1aa5.jpg


Driverssideperch_zpsbf52f086.jpg
Click to expand...

They look like repops to me..
 
FrontSpringPerch_zps3ccd6783.jpg


Here's one I bought at a swap meet years ago, and I think it's an original part with a new bushing. Notice the sharper edge on the top of the tapered part.
 
I have a pair of those I believe, I was planning on running them on my coupe. I couldn't find any nice originals and mine need a lot of work to be right again.
 
Tom,
I think the one you show it the 3rd style with the 1/32" thick shoulder, the 2nd style had an
1/8" thick shoulder.

Bob
 
What concerns me is those perches appear to be cast replacements instead of forged. I suppose (but don't know) that a GOOD malleable casting would withstand normal forces incurred in use but I'd still fear one may snap. Additionally, I would expect any quality USA made forging to have a manufacturers trademark like originals had. Maybe Vince could chime in on that.

How worn were the bushings before you replaced them? The perches show no signs of ever being in service.
 
Thanks Marco,

I've used the 1" and 1.125"...missed the other measurement.

A side view photo should/would confirm a casting or forging.
 
When the shoulder on the perch changed...did not also the configuration of the front radius rods within the top holes change also?

Pluck
 
What is the correct torque specs on the perch nuts? Do you guys just snug it up until you can stick the cotter key through?
 
My advice is to tighten it up as tight as you can and still get the cotter pin installed. I don't think it is possible to snap the bolt off without a very large cheater added to the breaker bar.
Rusty Nelson
 
Keep in mind that there are likley appx. 15 different repro perches that I have seen in the last 30 years. Some pretty good, some very bad. Also keep in mind , if you have had that front end 45 years, someone else had it for 35 years before and likely drove it 100,000 miles in that 35 years, and may have repaired it several times.
 
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