Model A Engine Removal from car

Rubatoguy

Rubatoguy

Member
1st timer at engine removal with hoist.

Do I have to take the engine and transmission out at the same time, or is there a way to remove the engine while leaving the transmission in the car?

I'm looking to do what is easiest.

thanks,
Todd
 
some guys remove the engine and ****** as one but I find it easier to just remove the engine if that's all your working on.
 
Ive always found it easiest to leave the trans in the car and pull just the engine. Its pretty straight forward on removal pull the flywheel housing bolts and everything on the front and the engine will slide away from the transmission.
 
My vote would be pull the entire assy (engine and trans together)
It would be less hassle trying to re-install the engine with the trans still in the car and trying to keep it "blocked" in place
Especially if this car is "new to you" you may want to inspect the trans bearing and the universal joint
Just my opinion
Scott
 
f8b6e20d.jpg


I like to leave the ****** in the car and support it on a floor jack, or use a 2 x 4 and ratchet strap to support it.
 
ScottNW/Ohio said:
My vote would be pull the entire assy (engine and trans together)
It would be less hassle trying to re-install the engine with the trans still in the car and trying to keep it "blocked" in place
Especially if this car is "new to you" you may want to inspect the trans bearing and the universal joint
Just my opinion
Scott
Click to expand...

I also vote with Scott. I have only pulled an engine and ****** a couple of times but I prefer to do both.
 
When you reinstall the engine you can open the bell housing access plate, reach in and rotate the transmission spline so the engine will mate.
 
Obviously it can be done both ways. I prefer to pull the engine separately. Pulling them together requires removing the pedal assembly and the trans cover. Then you need to cover the trans to keep out junk. It also leaves you dealing with a larger heaver assembly. I made two heavy wire hooks to hang the transmission from the motor mounts. Serves the same purpose as Tom's 2X4. I also find it easier to reassemble them separately.
 
I will add one more little tid bit, if you only pull the engine you can leave the head light bar on, the 28-29 that is no big deal but the 30 -31 can be a pain.
 
For me it depends on what needs to be done. If you have been thru the ****** and ujoint before just pull the motor. If you haven't then pull them as a unit. Make sure you have one of these they make it so much easier.

Head Puller
 
Tom's ideas are always good. I varied his approch by threading allthead down on each side into the tansmission top bolt holes. It was long enough to reach up through holes drilled in a two by four mounted across the car just above the transmission. I slid fender washers over the allthread down against the top of the two by four. I then ran nuts down against the washers and used them to for adjustment and support of the transmission.
 
I have always pulled just the engine. Installing the engine can be hard. The frame, sometimes, needs to be spread so the rear engine mounts will a slide in the frame. This is kind of tough when working alone. I built a frame spreader from some angle iron and placed a Porta Power on the floor.The frame spreader was made out of three pieces of 1/4x2x2 angle. The angles where just bolted together and this provided a hing when the Porta Power was energized.

Last time I installed a Float a Motor mounts from Sacramental Vintage Ford. This made installing the engine a one man operation. No frame spreader was required, just a pin bar for aligning the holes.

I use a lifting eye that screws into the spark plug hole.
 
Last edited:
I just pulled my engine and had it overhauled. Pulled engine only using a Harbor freight engine leveling bar and two lifts in the #2 and #4 spark plug holes. Held the trans up with a strap and 2x4. When going back in, used all thread about 8 inches long to align the trans to the engine and if you use the two piece crankshaft pulley you can leave the pulley off until you get the engine back in. Took less than an hour working by my self.
 
At least it will not be a one-man operation. I have a helper!
I will probably just pull the engine as the transmission was recently rebuilt and should be good.
 

Attachments

  • This is fun! sm.jpg
    This is fun! sm.jpg
    382.1 KB · Views: 180
So, I decided to just pull the engine, I removed all the bolts around the flywheel, the front engine mount, and rear engine mount bolts, and gas pedal assembly. I can lift the engine up and down, and I have about a quarter-inch separation between the engine and bellhousing, but I can't get the engine to move forward. (I have the transmission strapped with a 2x4.) I don't want to lift up too much as I don't want to crack anything. It seems the engine should just slide forward, but no luck. Should I try to tap out the rear mounts? Any suggestions?

thanks,
Todd
 
I use a long pry bar to pry the engine off the ******, especially from the bottom. Just make sure that everything looks to be lined up before prying. You do not want to bend anything. If you look at videos on U Tube, most show the mechanic using a pry bar.

Good Luck

Dick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top