Excess water in tailpipe

D

dan burda

Junior Member
I have a 1930 Ford idols nice, runs nice, but when I first start it, black moisture (water) spits out the tailpipe, seems like a lot leaves a little puddle on the floor. Once it is warmed up it is ok. I have a stainless steel muffler on it and a Bromfield Head. Seems like to much water for condonsation. Could I have a blown head gasket and not know it? Spark plugs are dry, no leaks in the radiator, car has plenty of power. I have been trying to figure this out for six months with no answer, would appreciate any related info. Thanks Dan
 
dan burda ...................
Do you have water in your oil ? It will look milky or grey, if so. If not, you might be OK.
Is your water level, in your radiator, staying stable ? You might be OK.
MIKE :)
 
My car, also with an HC head, spits and steams for a few minutes. The HC heads generate more heat. As noted, check oil and water level, also check for bubbling in the radiator. Run a compression check. My guess is you are OK.
 
Water is a byproduct of burning gasoline. With a cold exhaust system the water does not evaporate so drips out the tailpipe. As the system warms, the water is turned to steam and is no longer visible.
 
Seems to be a fairly common issue. Poor quality photo, but this is what my 1930 coupe has left on the garage floor over the years. There's no water in the oil, the engine runs fine, and the car doesn't leak [too much] oil, so I cut it a little slack on the moisturized exhaust soot that I get on startup.

Exhaust Residue.jpg
 
this is becoming a more common occurrence with ethanol fuel. The ethanol absorbs water from the atmosphere, hence, even more water condenses in the muffler than with pure gasoline, causing more water upon start up. If other signs do not indicate a leak, such as milky oil or excessive radiator water consumption, your car is probably OK.
 
Yep, mine does it too. Just had engine rebuilt, thought it was because of all new componants. Just keep a dirty rag on hand to clean up the mess.
 
The first thing I'd do is tourque the head. Next do a compression test. If the tourque and the compression are ok, drive it till it blows up. I think it will be fine.
 
I get the same thing happen to me, couldnt understand what exactly it was. Kinda sucks when uou have a fresh concrete driveway with a soot trail going down it. Haha
 
captain j said:
I get the same thing happen to me, couldnt understand what exactly it was. Kinda sucks when uou have a fresh concrete driveway with a soot trail going down it. Haha
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You're lucky if you only leave a soot trail. A lot of us also leave an oil trail as well.
(I just think of it as my Model A, marking it's territory)
 
Soot & water from a Model A kzhaust pipe is TOTALLY normal, it's the nature of the beast. It's kinda' like B.O, you get used to it!! If it bothered me, I'd paint my driveway FLAT BLACK! Bill W.
 
Contrary to most previous posts...I had one do that and it turned out to be a crack in the waterjacket of the block centered at an exhaust valve guide. The crack allowed water to slowly drip into the exhaust port...then to the exhaust manifold...and on out. That block is now laying by the fence line awaiting recycling. I could not detect any bubbles rising in the radiator. The only true sign of the leak was an exhaust manifold with pooled water in it upon removal. With the manifold removed, I could actually see a drip forming on the cast material surrounding the guide. To make things worse...this block was just fully machined for inserts, new pistons and valves. Ouch! $$$... The Magnaflux test did not indicate the crack. This block was the last one I have machined that has not gone through a heated pressure test of the waterjacket.
Chances are slim you have this problem!
Good Day!
 
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See Jim Brierley post.
Every single car ever built does the same thing. Once the engine is hot, the water turns to vapor and you cannot see it. But hold your palm over the exhaust of any idling hot engine and see the moisture develop (condense) on your hand. Leave it alone, it ain't broke.
 
Dave in MN said:
I had one do that and it turned out to be a crack in the waterjacket of the block
That block is now laying by the fence line awaiting recycling. I could not detect any bubbles rising in the radiator.
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Do not waste it! Imagination can get you alot of inventive repairs, Even chemiweld can get you far. 20 years is a good life expectancy for 1 or 2 bottles.
 
dumb person said:
Do not waste it! Imagination can get you alot of inventive repairs, Even chemiweld can get you far. 20 years is a good life expectancy for 1 or 2 bottles.
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I did not fully explain...Waste...I can see why you may feel so but no I don't think so....
I rebuild engines for customers and I just can not bring myself to sell one that "may" leak. I tried hot pressure sealing it with waterglass (Iron-Tite Ceramic Motor Seal by KwikWay) and it did initially stop the leak. After reassembly and a test run, the crack opened up and leaked again. The crack is in the area that surrounds the one piece valve guide. This area is subjected to pretty severe temperature differences. After the initial assembly of the engine and discovering the leak-taking it apart to complete a pressurized and heated treatment with the Ceramic Motor Seal--reassemble it and test run it to find it opened up and leaked again. I gave up...and cut my losses.
I just can not sell a rebuilt engine to a customer with a haunting feeling that it might leak. I appreciate your comment though!
Good Day!
 
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Dave in MN said:
I just can not sell a rebuilt engine to a customer with a haunting feeling that it might leak. I appreciate your comment though!
Good Day!
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Somebody might metal stitch it or something in the future, Not that many blocks being made anymore. One day i am going to figure out how to fix things like that with one of my "crazy" ideas everyone thinks will not work. Like cold welding with chemicals, V out the cracks and weld them with waterborne metal. One day... i will figure it out.
 
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