Alternator -vs-generator

I am replacing my worn out generator with a 6V 60 amp alternator.
I understand I need to change my 20-20 amp meter to a 30-30 amp meter.
What happens to the 20-20 if I don't change it?
And will the 30-30 be sufficient for the 60 amp alternator?
 
I am replacing my worn out generator with a 6V 60 amp alternator.
I understand I need to change my 20-20 amp meter to a 30-30 amp meter.
What happens to the 20-20 if I don't change it?
And will the 30-30 be sufficient for the 60 amp alternator?

You really don't need to change the ammeter if your 20-20 is working OK. How often do you expect to charge or draw more than 20 amps? My powerhouse can put out at least 15 amps, but I don't see my ammeter charge more than about 7 amps and the lights don't draw more than 10 amps. I have an EVR iside the powerhouse, so the needle almost always is near 0 to +2 amps.
 
My goal is to keep as much original as I can afford (and stand).

That said I plan to rebuild the dead generator that the PO had swapped out for an alternator one day. As I recall, Ford had a lot of service bullitens about the correct seting for the generator over the years. Eventually owners started running the lights manually to help with regulating charge to avoid damaging the battery through over-charging.

Sounds like your generator is working just fine, so it all depends on what you want it to look like when you open up the hood.

That said, I ordered float a motor mounts before I realized the originals had pads that need to be replaced as general maintenance. Big chunks of original steel look so much more quaint than aluminum members.
 
If you adjust your third brush to adequately charge while idling with lights on, then you risk burning up the generator while driving during the daylight. I fried two, in a younger day. If you don't want to mess with a regulator, a simple fix is to drive with your lights on during the day, which is not a bad idea anyhow.

I sure do like my alternator; can't imagine going back.

Steve
 
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