I need a quick diagram for test firing a 37 engine

3

37slantback

Senior Member
I have got a 37 engine bolted down on a stand and hooked up to a radiator. I have the original solenoid hooked up for the starter but I don't seem to have the power to the coil quite right.

The coil is a 6 volt and says that it doesn't need external resister. It still has the condenser and red wire from distributor hooked up. Its been a year since it was last ran. Anyone have a quick diagram for test firing this old flathead?
Thanks
Don
 
All you need is a red wire from battery to to ground and black wire from battery neg to the coil and a wire from other coil terminal to distributor.G.M.
 
Thanks GM

The source of my confusion lies with the coil that was on the engine when I bought the car. The Negative terminal of the coil has a red wire running down to the crab distributor and also has the condenser mounted on it.

That leaves the terminal marked Plus to be hooked to the battery which would be negative. Although I have a photograph of the engine prior to disassembly, this seems odd to me. I don't have spark but there can be many causes so I am trying to work through them one at a time.
 
Was the car set up for positive ground or negative ground? If positive ground then whoever wired it before was wrong. Probably out of habit from working on negative ground systems.

Tom
 
Here's what you need:

1. Starting with 6v battery, HEAVY ground cable from POS batt post with other end
bolted securely to block (POS ground).
2. 2nd heavy batt cable from NEG post on battery to ORIGINAL-type solenoid post.
3. From OTHER post on solenoid, run a HEAVY battery-type cable to starter lug.
4. In addition to the HEAVY wire you connected between NEG BATT and solenoid in
step #2, run a smaller wire from the SAME solenoid post to an ON/OFF toggle-
type switch, with the wire continuing-on FROM the switch to the coil connection.
This will afford you the ability to turn the ignition on or off.
5. Since you said that you have an ORIGINAL-type solenoid, there should be a
button on the bottom of the solenoid to activate the starter.
6. Turn the toggle switch (ignition) to ON. Push button on bottom of solenoid...VROOOM, VROOM! DD
 
OK, while I was typing, I ***-U-MEd that your coil was an original-type. Going back to step #4 ABOVE...run the wire coming OUT of your toggle switch to the NEG on coil. POS from coil to terminal on DISTRIBUTOR. DD
 
Thanks to all and especially V8Coopman. I am sure that list will help others as well.

That is essentially what I did other than the coil may have been backward. It has been run quite a while that way as I got it that way. No spark yet but at least I can move on.

-Don
 
37slantback said:
Thanks to all and especially V8Coopman. I am sure that list will help others as well.

That is essentially what I did other than the coil may have been backward. It has been run quite a while that way as I got it that way. No spark yet but at least I can move on.

-Don
Click to expand...

Like you said, it had been sitting for a while. Points sometimes like to be CLEANED after a long nap. Another possibility is that the points were never RE-SET after the original coil was removed from atop the distributor. Removing the original coil with it's very stiff coil-wound spike PUSHING-down on the points cradle can CHANGE the points settings...more fun. DD
 
you guys are the best!

Have a good weekend. I am heading to the shop before I get sucked into helping the wife with laundry. ;-)
 
he's got a crab distributor(post #3)....so hopefully points are still set, but may need cleaning....good luck...Mike
 
yep, was one of the questions i was going to ask, 'til he answered....and i am keeping your list from post 6, V8Coopman.....excellent advice....thanks....Mike
 
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