Alternator -vs-generator

Fifteen years ago, after tampering with gen outputs that would suit my needs in various seasons, I put in an alternator. I've still got the powerhouse, but I just never found the need to put it back in. Some of the other choices were unknown to me then. But I've enjoyed many years of trouble-free driving under all seasons and conditions using an alternator.
 
I haven't tried it yet but Bratton offeres a sixty amp armature for the tube type model A generators . The only problem that I see besides changeing the internal ground would be hiding a modern style box regulator and a couple of wires for the original look.

The armature is the main thing in the model A generator that limits amperage. Twelve volts is NO problem for any model A generator. If the look of the box style regulator that was used on fifties cars isn't a problem , it would be fairly easy. You would need to run the internal ground from the field coils and connect it to the field terminal on the regulator. You could connect the small wire from the starter switch to the bat. terminal on the regulator. The arm terminal on the regulator would connect in the terminal post on the generator. I suppose that the box style regulator could be hidden under the seat. A gutted cutout could be mounted to the generator for looks and you could be creative about how you hid the wires. Just a thought, not necessarily a recommendation.
 
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Tom Wesenberg said:
Yes, that would be the last picture in post #6. The early Autolite style generator has a ball bearing in the rear (1929-March 1930) then changed to a bushing. They both take the same EVR pictured.

Sometimes people use the post Model A generators with the spring clips for the adjustble brush riveted in place. This takes a different style EVR.
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Tom, I am one that knows nothing about electrical things. So where does one get an EVR unit like you mentioned in your posts? Do the vendors carry them and if so what does one look for? Again the old no-nothing guy!
 
Duffy1 said:
My AC requires 23 amps plus say 6 amps for lights equal say 30 amps . Will a generator put out 30 amps ?
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Hopefully you don't plan on running a 6 volt generator for a 12 volt ac system. I've heard of people using a 6v generator on 12 volts system, but I don't think it will put out the power for your ac. Every 12 volt alternator sold by vendors SHOULD put out 60 amps. Some have sold 100 amp alternators but that isn't needed on a model a, even with a/c.
 
Yes, we don't really "NEED" an alternator on our "A"'s I worked on a lot of "modern cars", so they sorta' appeal to me. It was exciting when they first came out & we were taught how they work, how to test & repair them, etc. Took me awhile to understand how a diode worked, the instructor didn't know diddley about explaining it!! Finally found my layman's answer in an encyclopedia article on solid state semiconductors! I HATE "mysteries," I have to know how something "WORKS!" Bill W. (we should use what we want, as long as it keeps our battery charged!)
 
Fred K-OR said:
Tom, I am one that knows nothing about electrical things. So where does one get an EVR unit like you mentioned in your posts? Do the vendors carry them and if so what does one look for? Again the old no-nothing guy!
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Fred, for you, I'd recommend the Fun Projects Voltage Regulator as already mentioned by Mike V - it's a drop-in replacement for the generator cutout; couldn't be easier to install...

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Tom, would it be a fair statement that if a person were to run your reg that they then could run a stock appearing/restored cutout for Judging and no one would be the wiser? No external wire differences?

And I just have to say that I am sure the other regs are nice and have their merits, but Tom gives advice here freely all the time and I would rather support a Barner.

That's just my opinion.
 
ctlikon0712 said:
Tom, would it be a fair statement that if a person were to run your reg that they then could run a stock appearing/restored cutout for Judging and no one would be the wiser? No external wire differences?

And I just have to say that I am sure the other regs are nice and have their merits, but Tom gives advice here freely all the time and I would rather support a Barner.

That's just my opinion.
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Yes, just remove the adjustable brush and install the EVR. You can use a stock original cutout, as I do, or you can use a diode cutout. No way to tell there's an EVR inside, unless you remove the cover or band.
 
If I installed an air condition, I wouldn't be concerned about original look and would just go ahead and use an alternator. The bracketry is probably made for useing an alternator anyway.

I haven't yet tried it but a sixty amp armature is available from Bratton that will allow the model A generator to charge 60 amps. I run a cooler band on my 12 volt model A generator. It is an air scoop that allows the fan to blow air over the commutator and brushes. I figure that this accessory band cools the commutator better than the newer generators with slots and fan on the pulley. The cooler band can be easily removed and replaced with an original for car shows, it only has one screw.
 
HoarseWhisperer said:
Brobrian,

We have a club member with an 28' unrestored truck who is looking for an "early" powerhouse if you are interested in selling.
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Sorry, I only have the one and watching this thread makes me think I should put a regulator in it and put it back on the car.
 
The A/C kit that Ken Davis sells requires 12V and the brackets are designed for an altenator.
 
Brobrian said:
Sorry, I only have the one and watching this thread makes me think I should put a regulator in it and put it back on the car.
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I wouldn't change it. You just got done saying it's suited you for 15 years. Keep the Generator as a back up & save your $.
 
Just as a general point of automotive evolution, third-brush generators were a thing of the past by about 1940... the "modern" automatic three-unit voltage regulator was being employed by the big three, and most other mfrs, and generally worked very well, tailoring the generator output to suit varying load demands (headlamps, heater, radio, etc.).

This was a solution to changes in vehicle demands (more electrical demands) and owners' driving habits (more night-time driving, longer driving over improving highways).

The mechanical voltage regulator served well, and survived the transition to the 12-volt era.

All that said, a properly functioning 3rd-brush genny & cut-out still works as well today, as it did in 1928... and it still will not automatically adapt to varying load-conditions.

Since there now seem to be options to upgrade the stock Ford gennys (both Powerhouse and "Long-frame") with modern voltage regulators (tastefully disguised / concealed), they should function just as well as a 1940 or later generator system.

Personally, I have been driving old iron for some 30 years now, most if it six-volt, and have never been compelled to change-out a generator for an alternator. (Or convert to 12 volts, for that matter.)

My '28 Special Coupe does have a 6-volt postive-ground alternator in it, but it came with the car. It works, so it is staying until I run across a stock genny at an attractive price...

If I had a decent Powerhouse, I would probably spring for Tom's concealed EVR...

Cheers,

SC Frank
 
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