Buyer's Remorse ?

Marc, Keep in mind several things. First, at altitude you must advance the timing due to the altitude. Second, if it shimmys, either the steering column, shocks, king pins, drag link, tie rod, or radius ball is worn,loose or mis adjusted. Come and see us at Berts in Denver, and I can show you what to look for on one of the cars at the store. Steve @ Berts in Denver, CO
 
"What I would like, and I thought that I had, is a car for taking medium length (+200 Mile) trips around the state. Back roads in the 40's MPH."

Then you should be happy, your car should do that!
 
You steering might need adjusting or the box rebuilt. Have you checked your toe-in? Wheel balance and tire pressure?

I'm at sea level and 45 is what I do. Over 50 and she is complaining. Plus at 45 I get to enjoy the scenery as well. Clem
 
marc hildebrant said:
Mike,

Not sure what "HAMB" is.....

What I would like, and I thought that I had, is a car for taking medium length (+200 Mile) trips around the state. Back roads in the 40's MPH.

Marc
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Ok Great!! (HAMB is the site for modified cars) So as for your back road trips, get the front end done; king pins, tie rod ends, drag link, steering. Go through the carb; clean and adjust. Hit the engine; clean the plugs, check gap, tweek the distributor timing, dist gaps. You should then be ready to go at the speeds and duration you want.

Have you joined a club? Anyone near you that could lend a hand?
 
SteveB31 said:
Marc, Keep in mind several things. First, at altitude you must advance the timing due to the altitude. Second, if it shimmys, either the steering column, shocks, king pins, drag link, tie rod, or radius ball is worn,loose or mis adjusted. Come and see us at Berts in Denver, and I can show you what to look for on one of the cars at the store. Steve @ Berts in Denver, CO
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Steve,

Thanks for the offer. I have bought some parts from you and I'll take you up on your offer the next time I'm in the store.

By the way, when you say to advance the timing, does that mean that the timing method used by Les Andrews should be modified ?

Marc
 
Update :

Checking the steering parts, I took up some spring length in the drag link by turing in the end plugs.

Also, the steering box has grease in it. I added 600 W oil as the grease didn't fil the box much (may have been pushed to the sides).

Steering is better, but has a little "shimmy" left. The steering wheel has about 1 1/2 inches of play. I'm going to adjust the steering box a little bit to reduce the play (using the method in Andrews book).

New plugs/points and timning and I'm up to about 50 MPH. The carb may need a rebuild as I'm about 1/2 turn open on the Choke/gas adjust control at 5000 feet. Seems that I should be running closed for a lean mixture ?

The carb is a Tillitson XF.

Marc
 
Very interesting comments by you folks. My "A" only has 150 miles since overhaul. I'm babying it by not exceeding 30 mph for the first 500 miles (well maybe 35 on a downhill stretch) Even my 31 pickup was driven about 45. Like some of you said, it sounded like it was screaming or overworked at 50. I plan to stay in the slow lane nd enjoy mine.

Best Regards
 
Before you get too worried about the speeds, I would first take a GPS along with you and verify what speeds you are actually getting. I have been calibrating the Stewart Warner speedometers for several clubs using SW factory testing equipment and have found a wide range of errors in the speedometer display. Couple that with errors induced by tires that do not have the original profile and circumference (Firestone is one of the worst at over 6% oversize) and it is only a guess as to speedometer accuracy. Gar Williams
 
Aerocraft said:
Before you get too worried about the speeds, I would first take a GPS along with you and verify what speeds you are actually getting. I have been calibrating the Stewart Warner speedometers for several clubs using SW factory testing equipment and have found a wide range of errors in the speedometer display. Couple that with errors induced by tires that do not have the original profile and circumference (Firestone is one of the worst at over 6% oversize) and it is only a guess as to speedometer accuracy. Gar Williams
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Gar, I like the oversize tire idea. It's cheaper than overdrive. :)
 
Aerocraft said:
Before you get too worried about the speeds, I would first take a GPS along with you and verify what speeds you are actually getting. I have been calibrating the Stewart Warner speedometers for several clubs using SW factory testing equipment and have found a wide range of errors in the speedometer display. Couple that with errors induced by tires that do not have the original profile and circumference (Firestone is one of the worst at over 6% oversize) and it is only a guess as to speedometer accuracy. Gar Williams
Click to expand...

Group,

Checked out the speedometer today with my GPS. Its not correct.

Speedometer indicates 40 MPH...actual speed 46 MPH.

I found that crusing now around a real 45MPH is just about right. When I drove my 1933 Chev., 45 MPH was the speed that was also "just right".

Looks like buying this Model A was O.K. after all !

Marc
 
Group,

Another thing. After a rebuilt Zenith from Bert's, the engine is smoother at speed and much more power.

Also, oil leak down now that I didn't over fill it.

Marc
 
marc hildebrant said:
Group,

Another thing. After a rebuilt Zenith from Bert's, the engine is smoother at speed and much more power.

Also, oil leak down now that I didn't over fill it.

Marc
Click to expand...

It sounds like you are starting to enjoy your purchase. I know at first you had doughts but it sounds like you are getting things sorted out. This stuff is now about 80 years old and it is ammazing that we can take one of these old cars, sort it out and get it so it can be driven reliably and enjoyed.

Thanks for keeping us posted as to your progress.

Chris
 
My rebuilt engine (about 300 miles on it now) seems to run at a "sweet" speed of about 40 to 45 MPH. At this time I don't think I will try faster until the engine has a few more miles on it. It seems to have more viberations at 30 to 35 than at the 40 to 45. The other day I tried to push it faster that 45 and found it would go faster but decided to back off until I had more miles on the engine.
 
I have an H&H inserted engine in my '30 Town Sedan. It has a counterweighted crank, balanced flywheel and pressure plate, B grind on cam, and a Zenith 13922 carb. I live at 8500 feet elevation and it will easily run 55-60 mph here on the flat. Even so, the sweet spot is between 40 and 45 and on any long trip that is where I would run it. With an overdrive, which I am longing for, I expect it to purr along at 55. A high compression head is also on my to do list for this winter because at this elevation I am holding up way too much traffic on the steep grades.
 
Bob--
I also have a 30 Town Sedan, and you are right, a HC head works wonders on it. Those sedans are about 300 lb heavier than a roadster, so the extra power is really useful, and you do not need to "push it" to run right along.
The Mitchell OD paired with that makes for a great cruiser, and 55 mph is a very sweet speed with mine...it is not straining at all and very quiet. Good luck with that down the road!
 
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