modern Points latest problem

allen

Well-known member
Once upon a time I would change every distributor to modern point set up,
that has since stop.
If the rubbing block isn't wearing off the moisture is screwing up the points every time i let a motor set over a month I have to rub the point to get them to spark again,

Is there a decent set of points I can run or just take the time and go back to original thanks AL
 
Rub blocks wear, that's why you set the new points to the widest gap and then check them. Modern point more then likly are made of the same materal as the new original style Model A points so you would have the same problem. You could get rid of the points and go with electronic ignition. Or, drive the car more often. :)
 
If the humidity where you live is anything like it is in Georgia,then Im not surprised you have that problem.When you have to keep a lite bulb on in your closet to keep the clothes from getting moldy its pretty bad!
 
The blocks wear down .1" or so after a couple of hundred miles. Then they glaze and go many thousands of miles after the points have been regapped.

As stated, in the later cars the dash light has an on-off switch which should prevent it from being ON all the time.
 
The blocks wear down .1" or so after a couple of hundred miles. Then they glaze and go many thousands of miles after the points have been regapped.

As stated, in the later cars the dash light has an on-off switch which should prevent it from being ON all the time.


Thanks for the reply Bruce not sure what your talking about, maybe i did not make myself clear, I know all points wear, but not to a point that I'm talking about even with cam lube the rubbing block eats away,
As far as the dash light ???????? what I'm taking about is the contact point in the points moisture gets in there and it will not spark unless you exercise the gap.
 
If the humidity where you live is anything like it is in Georgia,then I'm not surprised you have that problem.When you have to keep a lite bulb on in your closet to keep the clothes from getting moldy its pretty bad!


You are so right Humidity is so bad the clutch will stick in less than a month so have to insert a wooden stick on the clutch pedal so it will not stick
 
We live in NJ and get hot and very humid summers. We also get a lot of condensing moisture temp variations in the spring and fall. So we get a lot of potential water issues.

Not long ago I was reviewing my pile of distributors and parts. I found it interesting that the low quality aftermarket original style points had a white haze on the contacts. All the old stock used and NOS old stock Ford script points were nice and had shiny contact surfaces.

The aftermarket used points ranged from nice contacts to pitted.

The used aftermarket points that came with by brother coupe are still on the car 40 years later and working. He has NOS Ford points he could put on, but why? The others are working fine. The only thing keeping him from running 65 MPH all day long is the out of balance condition from having to replace a single rod.

If you put the right parts on your dist you should need only minimal touching. Once the wear block is matched to the cam you should go long times between needing to touch anything. If you are constantly replacing stuff then you are doing too much or buying crappy parts. It should be oil regularly and drive.
 
We live in NJ and get hot and very humid summers. We also get a lot of condensing moisture temp variations in the spring and fall. So we get a lot of potential water issues.

Not long ago I was reviewing my pile of distributors and parts. I found it interesting that the low quality aftermarket original style points had a white haze on the contacts. All the old stock used and NOS old stock Ford script points were nice and had shiny contact surfaces.

The aftermarket used points ranged from nice contacts to pitted.

The used aftermarket points that came with by brother coupe are still on the car 40 years later and working. He has NOS Ford points he could put on, but why? The others are working fine. The only thing keeping him from running 65 MPH all day long is the out of balance condition from having to replace a single rod.

If you put the right parts on your dist you should need only minimal touching. Once the wear block is matched to the cam you should go long times between needing to touch anything. If you are constantly replacing stuff then you are doing too much or buying crappy parts. It should be oil regularly and drive.


I agree Kevin my points are coming from Snyder's, do not mind paying more if someone know the part number on Accell will buy one in a New York minute
 
I live in the humid midwest and have had none of these problems with my modern points, which haven't been touched in five years. Now that I've said this, my luck will probably run out tomorrow!!
 
Do a search on modern points . I get my modern points and condenser from NAPA . I bought a new modern point dist. from SNYDERS . Condenser lasted an hour . I got rid of the cheap points and condenser that came with the dist . Bought new points condenser from NAPA. I have posted the part numbers on here before. Also I have to oil this new dist . often or it starts squealing.
 
We used NAPA, Echlin CS751 points in my Son-in-laws 29 Model A. They have been in there at least a couple years with no problems.
 
The stock setup always works for me.

Me too!!! I'm still running the same original style points from Brattons in my 31 tudor since 1999 . I had my share of problems and learned my lesson with the so called modern points in the ninties. I've heard that NAPA most expensive points set that is nearly thirty dollars works good. Don't know, the difficulty in setting the gap alone is enough for me not to want them.
 
do you have a reproduction distributor cam in the car? I put a repro distributor cam from Snyders in mine and it ate points like they were going out of style! Switched to a "B" cam from Stipe machine and good points from NAPA and have no more problems after the initial wear in of the rubbing block.
 
do you have a reproduction distributor cam in the car? I put a repro distributor cam from Snyders in mine and it ate points like they were going out of style! Switched to a "B" cam from Stipe machine and good points from NAPA and have no more problems after the initial wear in of the rubbing block.



thanks yes i do very helpful, and Im going to buy that bubble shed
 
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