Hard Starting 1940 85 HP V-8

You said you installed a new resistor. I believe when you install the coil adapter kit you bypass the resistor, it's not used? That is what I did and it works fine. Could that be a problem?
 
Mike42, as Mike in AZ indicates, definite check for spark when in this state. I chased what I thought was a spark issue when it was very hot out and motor was hot too, replacing coil, condenser because I thought the spark looked weak and it turned out to be a worn out fuel pump, which did gradually get worse over time. I would have expected it to act up all the time but that wasn't necessarily the case. A side note, I had switched to the tractor style coil on my 41. The coil had an internal resistor yet I still had the resister in place under the dash. I bypassed the resister under the dash and the weak spark symptom went away.
 
I went through the same thing with a original 21k miles 48 Coupe I had. Made me crazy for several years. New carb, new dist., new fuel pump, new starter, cables , solenoid, grounding strap, new Optima 6V. and new ignition switch. Eventually I got tired of getting stuck and stopped driving it. Finally gave up on it altogether and sold it. I guess we just didn't get along.
 
Mike42, you didn't state if you fuel supply during your "shut down" was compermised. Any possibility your fuel line or your fuel is being restricted?
 
I have a modern coil on my 46. It was there when I bought the car. Now I keep reading about this resister under the dash. Where under the dash is it located and what does it look like ? Maybe when they converted my car to a modern coil they never by past it ? So to by pass it just use a jumper wire or a fused link ? I just sent my Carb to Ken ct for a complete rebuild. Also my coil was mounted horizontal instead of vertical. I think being mounted vertical will help it stay cooler with the 6 blade fan blowing on it. Looking into a new fuel pump also.
 
Its' located on the firewall above the steering. To bypass connect the wire from the coil to the power/switched wire.
 

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Well....problem solved ! I got the rebuilt coil and a new condenser and new resistor installed and ...bingo......starts and runs great ! Problem solved. I thank you all for chipping in on your thoughts. This '40 after sitting around for 25 years absolutely runs and purrs like a kitten. It is really sweet. I'm glad to have her.

Thanks to all again.

Mike42
 
Mike did Skip rebuild your distributor? How does it start, do you have to crank it over or does it fire as sson as you touch the starter button? Also after it gets real hot is the real test on how it starts. Give us a report after a real hot day of driving. G.M.
 
;) its always the damned electrics eh?
if your points are clean & dry and gapped correctly , you have a new condenser & all the wiring is intact from dash to engine then its gotta be the coil i would guess.
However, Elimination , one item at a time gets the best results, SO
after all the electrics are covered , look to the carby needle & seat weeping thru & partially flooding the cylinders while the engine has been stopped, its worth considering.:)
 
GM - just saw your question. Skip did not do anything to dist.....only the coil and I bought a new condenser. Hot or cold it fires right up and no problems. I had a few really hot days up here in northern michigan this past Summer and it started well.

Thx

Mike
 
bobv said:
Its' located on the firewall above the steering. To bypass connect the wire from the coil to the power/switched wire.
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Bobv, could you help me with identifying wires, I'm having problem with getting the car to start. The wires on resistor, which one is coil ,and where are the others coming from new member haven't started car since I bought it thank for any help . Murphy 1936
 
josh1331 said:
Still don't know what it looks like all I see are wires is it on mother side or under dash please
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What your looking at in BOBV 's pic is a 36 resister and fuse board. 41 does not look like this. The resister is the part with the up + down slots in it. ken ct.
 
Just a thought (from my learned lessons):
Coil wired up wrong. When having positive ground - one can be confused on what is + and -. Some old coils just say "batt".
Coil will work both ways, but not for long. Then it will fade - and not deliver a good spark. And finally will stop work. If you buy a new - problem will gradually reappear.
 
G.M. said:
Send your old Ford coil to Skip and put that part of out of the way. Also get a IH-200 condenser from Napa. Sounds like it may have been the coil but it could be the float level or power valve flooding the engine. A bad coil causes a weak spark which makes it harder to ignite the gas, the hotter the coil gets the weeker the spark becomes. Try a few squirts of starter fluid next time it happens. Starter fluid will fire a little better with a weak spark than this new gas. G.M.
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G.M. IH 100 is international harvester tractor condenser? How can we know if condenser is the right one if we order it is there some way to check them. The IH 100 g.M when or who told you it was ok to use on our fords? I picked one up but haven't tried it yet. Does it last longer, give better spark??? John
 
ken ct said:
What your looking at in BOBV 's pic is a 36 resister and fuse board. 41 does not look like this. The resister is the part with the up + down slots in it. ken ct.
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Yes took a look Ken your right. Where did you get all this good knowledge? Better write it down and publish it in a book for all to see thanks John. Ps. How can we check if what we have is still good?
 
josh1331 said:
G.M. IH 100 is international harvester tractor condenser? How can we know if condenser is the right one if we order it is there some way to check them. The IH 100 g.M when or who told you it was ok to use on our fords? I picked one up but haven't tried it yet. Does it last longer, give better spark??? John
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John We had so many failures with the Ford condensers over the years I was looking for a replacement 15 or more years ago. I stumbled on a IH-201 which has a stud terminal out the end. These were hard to find. The IH-200 was the same one but had a terminal lead. I was able to take an old Ford condenser apart an put the IH-200 inside of the old Ford condenser but it was a pain. I did about 20 then started mounting them using the mounting clamp under the coil hold down screw on the passenger side of the coil. The lead was screwed to the brass tab on the 39 type coil and a screw was put through the condenser hole in the 36 type coil with a nut holding the screw in place and another nut for the terminal lug on the condenser. I have never had or heard of a failure in over 15 years. No excessive point pitting and starts and runs perfect so the old fords like the mfd's. G.M.
 
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