Emergency Brake Issue!

bogdonj

Well-known member
Over the past year that I have owned the 30 Roadster I have been getting it back in tip top shape.. gone through the whole car and fixed everything that was wrong or bad on it. Now I have an issue that I need some advice on. Just set the brakes up by a well known model a restorer and they work wonderful but just the past couple weeks I notice once I park the Roadster in my garage and set the emergency brake, the next time I go out in it and take off the emergency brake the car still hold like it's staying on then breaks free after advancing the wheel. I put the rear wheels on jack stands and spin it. The drivers right rear wheel spins good and locks up with the emergency brake on!(PERFECT) but the other side (Passengers rear) seems to have some resistance and locks on when the emergency brake level is off. I then manually force the tire to spin and it become unlocked then it will lock again and so on. I looked at the emergency brake rod and seems ok and the emergency brake hand lever works good and clicks into it's teeth.

I pulled the wheel off and took the emergency brake off and notice that the emergency brake toggle didn't move much. I then used a big screw driver and a hammer and tapped the lever to the back and now the wheel is free. As soon as I put the emergency brake back on and off it stays stuck and I need to tap it back again to unlock the wheel.

My question is would the emergency brake toggle be worn or broken or is there a way to lub it or spray it with PB blaster to free it up more? If not is it hard to change one out? Or should I be looking at somethign else causing this issue....It's just on the passenger rear wheel that it's doing this. Currently I have pull the rod and only have an emergency brake going to the one wheel until I can figure this out! I'm guessing as I drive this it's binding up abit and slowing me down. :D

Any help from the Barners is welcomed!
 

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Hello. You might want to check that the cotter pins are not causing the arm and the remainder of the emergency brake levers to bind.
 
There are no grease fittings on that emergency brake toggle originally so they have a tendency to bind after a while.
You can buy them drilled and tapped from Brattons etc. or if yours are not worn drill and tap them yourself and save money !!
Usually they are worn and the bushings are shot as well , When I got my truck the whole bushing tube was moving when you put the brake on
John Cochran
 
I was going to suggest Tom's question. Also, do you have them on their correct sides? There are LH and RH toggles.
 
I will check for the return springs tonight. I'm going to do some more digging around and see! Does anyone have a picture of what they look like to help me?
 
If you put them on, it would be an experience you would not forget soon. They are a son-of-a-b to install. :eek:
 
If you put them on, it would be an experience you would not forget soon. They are a son-of-a-b to install. :eek:

They are!............unless you make a loop of machinist wire, place about a 6" piece of broomstick inthe loop and twist. Then hook the other end of the loop on the spring, and pull into place, using the broomstick as a handle. Cut the wire and pull it out. not easy, but a whole lot better than any other way.
 
I'm going to have to make a movie of how to install the e brake springs because with the right tools and technique its not that hard. It sounds like your toggle is frozen tightly to the bushing. If you remove the carrier and knock it out you can install new bushings and you'd most likely be fine.
 
Sounds like the problem is with the toggle operating shaft. I suspect the shaft is frozen in the bushings. Even with missing or weak springs the toggle should easily return with finger pressure. My guess is removing the shaft, cleaning and lubricating it will solve your problem.
 
Sounds like the problem is with the toggle operating shaft. I suspect the shaft is frozen in the bushings. Even with missing or weak springs the toggle should easily return with finger pressure. My guess is removing the shaft, cleaning and lubricating it will solve your problem.


thanks guys for the input so far... I'm heading to the garage soon and I will update you. in removing the shaft can that be done from the back of the plate or does the drum/hub have to come off to get inside. Brakes aren't my favorite thing to do on these cars and this is a good learning curve for me at my young age.
 
The drum must come off. Then you remove the srpings holding the ebrake band and remove the toggle lever on the back. Then the toggle should either slide out or can be knocked out. The toggle arm is held straight on the back by a key so make sure you pull it off before trying to push put the toggle.
 
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