Hi, my 1930 Tudor has the original, non-adjustable tappets. This seems to me to be a somewhat bizarre design as I would think that valves will have to be adjustable. I was told by somebody to file the ends of each valve in order to achieve the correct clearance between valve and tappet, is this correct? And what are the long-term consequences of this concidering that the valves will eventually seat themselves deeper into the block? Will I just have to keep on filing? thanks,
Valve adjustment?
- Thread starter MikeMort
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Yes, that is the proper protocol for setting valve lash. It is not bizzare whatsoever!
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Actually the valve stems shouldn't be filed, they really should be ground on a valve grinding machine..
But, what are the clearances ?? They shouldn't change much over the years.. The clearance should be about .013" intake and .015" exhaust,, so,, if the intakes are in the .010-.015" range and the exhaust in the .012-.016" range I wouldn't worry about them..
The engine in my little roadster was last done in 1961 and the valves have been at .015-.016" since I got it in 1976..
But, what are the clearances ?? They shouldn't change much over the years.. The clearance should be about .013" intake and .015" exhaust,, so,, if the intakes are in the .010-.015" range and the exhaust in the .012-.016" range I wouldn't worry about them..
The engine in my little roadster was last done in 1961 and the valves have been at .015-.016" since I got it in 1976..
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Mike,
Go up to the black bar above, & click Search, for search forums -- then type in: solid lifters
Scroll down to: solid lifters vs. adjustable lifters by quigly
Scroll down to message #9 05/23/2012 12:43 p.m.
Most difficult is learning how to remove as little as possible -- by valve #3, you should be a pro.
We always used what all older local mechanics used on Model A's:
Intake: 0.011" Exhaust: 0.013" -- with "never" a ticking or any other problem.
Go up to the black bar above, & click Search, for search forums -- then type in: solid lifters
Scroll down to: solid lifters vs. adjustable lifters by quigly
Scroll down to message #9 05/23/2012 12:43 p.m.
Most difficult is learning how to remove as little as possible -- by valve #3, you should be a pro.
We always used what all older local mechanics used on Model A's:
Intake: 0.011" Exhaust: 0.013" -- with "never" a ticking or any other problem.
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Mike,
And Patrick's message above is correct -- if you do a good valve job, you may even need new seat covers before needing to re-do valves with original tappets.
And Patrick's message above is correct -- if you do a good valve job, you may even need new seat covers before needing to re-do valves with original tappets.
Original style valves with mushroom stem& solid lifters will keep their adj indefinetly due to there large surface area.Modern "improved" valves with straight stems & adj lifters have much less surface area & will require adj more often.Ford used non adjust lifters up until 54.