Replacing the Seals in my '39 Steering Gear Box

RKS.PA

RKS.PA

Well-known member
Hi, Guys,

I have a leaking steering gearbox. Oil leaded into the horn/light switch area and shorted out the horn.

The box and steering shaft are on the bench. jdl was kind enough to post an illustrated parts diagram for the steering gear assembly for 1937 to 1939 a week or so ago in response to another question on fixing the gap in a steering shaft.

My gears are fine and the steering was perfect, other than the leaking oil.

I can see there is a seal on the bottom of the staft, just before the light switch. Are there other seals in the box and does the sector shaft have to come out?

While I have the box out of the car, I'd like to do a complete job and do it right, but I've not done this before!
 
More than likely it is leaking from the brass tube that the light switch rod rides in. Can't remember if it is soldered or brazed to the lower plate, but that is where they crack and leak from. If the rest of your box is good, you should only have to fix that bottom plate to get rid of the leak.
 
if it was sitting on my workbench i would inspect/replace the bearings, races, bushings, and seal, and repair or replace the brass tube. it`s not that hard, not that expensive and there`s no better time to do it.
 
The brass tube is originally just crimped to the lower plate, and they come loose and leak. IF that is the problem, clean everything thoroughly and use
flux and silver solder, then neutralize in baking soda. If the tube itself is broken or worn through, a new tube can be soldered to the plate. Tubing of the correct size is available in 12" pieces here in So Calif at Orchard Supply
Hardware, and probably other places. 13/32" OD, .014 wall thickness.
K-S Engineering Chicago IL Stock #136

The other place these can leak is a bad sector seal, otherwise the housing is
(unlike 32-34's) one piece, so that is it.
 
Last edited:
There is no seal on the end plate of the steering gear above the light switch other than gaskets. The brass tube extends above the oil level in the gear box to prevent oil from entering the light switch.
There is no need for using silver solder here, just regular lead/tin solder will suffice since there is very little stress on this joint. One point of caution, make sure that the tube is perfectly straight with the steering shaft or it will flex and break very soon after reassembly.
 
After my brakes, I'm diving into my 39 P/U gear box. Good insight on the little things to look for. Stuff you don't get from the blue/green shop manuals, more reason to read the threads daily:D
 
Ross in East Texas said:
There is no seal on the end plate of the steering gear above the light switch other than gaskets. The brass tube extends above the oil level in the gear box to prevent oil from entering the light switch.
There is no need for using silver solder here, just regular lead/tin solder will suffice since there is very little stress on this joint. One point of caution, make sure that the tube is perfectly straight with the steering shaft or it will flex and break very soon after reassembly.
Click to expand...

I have silver solder, therefore I use it... overdo better than underdo...
BTW in CA solder with lead has been "discontinued" I think...
 
RKS.PA said:
Hi, Guys,
I have a leaking steering gearbox. Oil leaded into the horn/light switch area and shorted out the horn.
The box and steering shaft are on the bench. jdl was kind enough to post an illustrated parts diagram for the steering gear assembly for 1937 to 1939 a week or so ago in response to another question on fixing the gap in a steering shaft.
My gears are fine and the steering was perfect, other than the leaking oil.
I can see there is a seal on the bottom of the staft, just before the light switch. Are there other seals in the box and does the sector shaft have to come out?
While I have the box out of the car, I'd like to do a complete job and do it right, but I've not done this before!
Click to expand...

RKS, PA....I have a good article on how to rebuild '37 - '48 steering boxes. If you would like a copy, send me a PM with your Email addy and I will send it to you. J.M.
 
Ross is correct there should be no seal in the area in question. before disassemblying the plate with the tube be careful to see if you can pull the plate apart without destroying the gaskets between the plate and the box. The gaskets serve to provide the correct end play of the worm bearings, which should be ZERO, that is to say no end play or preload on the bearings after reassembly.
 
Typically silver solder has a slightly higher melting point than tin/lead solder and creates a stronger joint. Generally it requires an acetylene torch to silver solder where you can use a simple propane torch for tin/lead solder.
 
Ross in East Texas said:
Typically silver solder has a slightly higher melting point than tin/lead solder and creates a stronger joint. Generally it requires an acetylene torch to silver solder where you can use a simple propane torch for tin/lead solder.
Click to expand...

I've been silver-soldering for many years with a propane torch; wish
I'd known it wouldn't work :)
 
To correct my statement made above. My definition of "Silver Solder" is a combination of silver and various other elements which results in a solder with a lower melting point that traditional lead and tin. I do acknowledge that silver brazing is done at higher temperatures. I prefer using electronic silver solder with the lower temperature which I can solder with a soldering gun instead of a torch.
 
Richard (EV8G) said:
I've been silver-soldering for many years with a propane torch; wish
I'd known it wouldn't work :)
Click to expand...
You can use a good propane torch for the silver braze alloys that have 40% or more silver due to their lower melting point. You can also use a soft solder like 96% Sn 4% Ag or other high percentage Tin solders - they are higiher melting point than other "soft solders" and have much better mechanical strength. You can det any of this stuff at McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com Bob L
 
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