Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Robert Dip

Robert Dip

Senior Member
Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

For my '35, I have an electrical fuel gauge from a ’36 and wish to replace the existing air line system. I purchased a 6V gas tank-sending unit from Mac’s that bolts on the original tank. Question is…how and where do I place a fuel line on the tank? The original configuration fed through the top from the sending unit. The '36 fuel line seems to come from the frontal side portion of the tank. Basic dimensions as to its location would be helpful. Also, is there a kit available to add this to the tank? or what hardware would be required to do this? Totally clueless on this matter…help would be appreciated.
Robert
 
Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

The 36 came out the front about 2/3thurds up .You could drill near the new sender to place the line /Solder it in with a fitting on the end ..But I would stick to the Red liqued if I were you ,If its set up right its reliable .they used it in 1000s of cars .
 
Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Why would you want to go back to the basically unreliable hydrostatic fuel gauge if you are enjoying an electric gauge now??? Inquiring minds want to know.
 
Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Read his post again Lawson .I have had my Hydrostatic in for 22 years no problem .
 
Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Robert-

I also have a '35 with a '36 sender. There is nothing special or odd about installing the fuel line. Just get some 1/4" tubing and run it down the left frame rail. On the tank end you need to use a Ford tubing nut and bushing (similar to what is used on the fuel pump). Just slip the nut and bushing on the tube and push the tubing as far as it will go into the tank fitting, about 5-6 inches. Tighten the nut/bushing and you are done with the tank connection. The front end is pretty straight forward and shouldn't cause any particular problems. The electrical hook-up is easy.

However, there are a couple of other potential problems. First, you will need to add an air vent on the '35 tank neck (see pictures). The original '35 fuel sender had a vent that is not present on the '36 unit. The other possible problem is the reproduction sender. Unless things have changed the repo sender commonly being sold will NOT work with the typical Ford dash gauge. There have been several threads on this forum and others complaining about this problem.

Hope this helps.

Tom
 

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Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Thanks Tom, I see if it’s not one thing, and the other being with the repro sending unit. I found it kind of strange that it said that it could work with 6V or 12V. On the fuel line into the tank, I’ll have to investigate what a Ford tubing nut and bushing is. I would think that this has to be soldered to the tank. As for the actual ¼” line into the tank, I imagine that it would have to be fairly close to the bottom, lets say ¼ inch and being careful not to ‘bottom’ out and restrict flow. Nice idea on the vent. Is this way it was done on the ’36? Robert
 
Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

or else you might look for a '36 tank with sender still in it??.....Mike
 
Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Mike in AZ said:
or else you might look for a '36 tank with sender still in place of it??.....Mike
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing Mike. Everything on a '36 tank should bolt or wire right up in a '35 for installing an electric gauge but you would need to add a vent tube in the filler neck like Tom is showing in his pictures or put one in some other good location.
Another possibility, if originality is not important, is to consider a repro tank that's made like a '36. Extra capacity in non rusting materials are an additional plus. Regarding extra capacity...I'm now thinking about using a nice original '37 tank (very nice early take off of an original care that was ruined by making it into a street rod...JMO) on a traditional '35 hotrod that I'm building. This tank definitely has more capacity than a stock '35 tank and bolts right in a '35 frame using the original captive nuts and safety wire bolts, HOWEVER, the exit angle for the large threaded collar is different on a '37 vs. '35, but with no rear fenders, that angle difference will not matter to me. This '37 tank also came with a period correct locking gas cap that still works (w/2 keys) and a nice original sending unit still attached at the top. Thank you Jack in PA for that nice tank!! :) if you happen to read this post :) it will be put to good use!!
 
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Re: Converting ’35 fuel gauge to ’36 electrical

Don't forget to use a vented cap.35's used a non vented cap,36 and later did.
 
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