1930 Model AA Cant Get Her Over 25 MPH

I may not be adding anything, but do you have the 'mixture' [GAV] set 1/4 or less open when warmed & driving. Also, a check on the valves may help to eliminate any burnt out etc. Just a thought.
 
The GAV is an adjustment on the carb associated with the choke rod. Closed is full CW Clock Wise, gingerly not torqued. Then to start a cold engine one half to one full turn CCW Counter Clock wise , once warmed up, somewhere between fully closed to one third turn, a well running engine might like fully closed. It controlls the air fuel mixture.
Others might fine tune this statement but that is the gist.
 
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Pull the muffler pipe off at the header, if possible. Take it for a drive and see if you do any better. That will tell you if the system is blocked or not.
 
ctlikon0712 said:
The GAV is an adjustment on the carb associated with the choke rod. Closed is full CW Clock Wise, gingerly not torqued. Then to start a cold engine one half to one full turn CCW Counter Clock wise , once warmed up, somewhere between fully closed to one third turn, a well running engine might like fully closed. It controlls the air fuel mixture.
Others might fine tune this statement but that is the gist.
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Where exactly is that GAV adjustment on the carb? And what does GAV Stand for?
 
The knob on the choke rod inside the cab is threaded on and although a hard turn, just unthreads when I turn it. Is that where I'm adjusting the GAV and if so it should not be unthreading obviously? Anxiously awaiting clarity on this whole GAV thing. Was oblivious to it completely.......
 
ok so I turned the choke rod shaft by hand. looked to be as far as she could go in a CLOCKWISE direction. So i turned it COUNTER CLOCKWISE. It goes quit a few revolutions and I see the assembly pulling out then although it still turns counterclockwise there is no more adjustment to be seen. Still spinning counter clockwise though. Is there a point where I know is fully closed in the counter clockwise position? Am I on the right track? Does what I said Make Any sense?
 
To CLOSE the GAV you turn it CLOCKwise, to open the GAV you turn it COUNTERclockwise.
To start open (CCW) the GAV about 1/2 turn, start engine, let it warm up, then adj it CW til you get a good idle and throttle response. Others will chime in I'm sure. Good luck.
Paul in CT
 
1931 flamingo said:
To CLOSE the GAV you turn it CLOCKwise, to open the GAV you turn it COUNTERclockwise.
To start open (CCW) the GAV about 1/2 turn, start engine, let it warm up, then adj it CW til you get a good idle and throttle response. Others will chime in I'm sure. Good luck.
Paul in CT
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ok shoot mis read there. Ok that all makes sense, I'll try it............ Hows about the setting of the idle mixture screw on top of carb? I screwed with it and now its running like a bag of crap........ lol
 
screw in the idle- Air/fuel screw clock wise all the way in.... than unscrew 1 1/2 turns out to start with . start engine and note how it is running . usually 1 1/2 turns out is the right spot to get the engine running well . turning the screw in will decrease the air flow in and create a richer fuel mixture due to the decrease in air flow ..the opposite... turning the air/fuel idle screw out will increase the air flow and create a leaner air/fuel mix . too rich or too lean will make for poor idle there is a sweet spot somewhere between fully closed and 2 1/2 turns out . find it and than leave it there. as for the gav control try one full turn out and than after the engine is warmed up 1/2 turn back in to lean out the fuel flow a bit may run best anywhere from full closed to 3/4 open depends on the carb and carb condition
 
Ok, here are some photos of her........ Finally........

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With those big tires you are probably going faster than your speedo reads.
What size are they, 700X20?

Bob
 
So as far as what I've covered now because of all the help of you great gentlemen:

Timing is set and bang on. (I think)
You guys can judge my method here........

1) Checked that spark advance lever was properly adjusted to touch each wall of the distributer body slot in full retarded and full advance positions. Needed to spin the steering column slightly to correct this but all good now.

2) Found top dead centre on cylinder one (cyl. at front of block).

3) Set distributer points gap at .020.

4) Loosened of Distributer cam screw, turned cam until points just ready to open and adjusted for lash. Tested this with a test light. Slightest turn on the cam screw counter clockwise when tightened back up and light comes on. With ignition on test light is off, pull timing lever on column down and light comes on at about 2 notches from top.

Learned about the GAV Adjustment (Duh)

1) Turned all the way clockwise. Half turn or so counter clockwise when starting and adjust clockwise when engine warm.
* note I don't notice much if any difference in the idle when I adjust although the idle sounds pretty good regardless. Hmmm.

Starting her with timing lever all the way up and then driving with it about 3/4 down.

Intake and exhaust manifolds replaced. I would like to test it for leaks however. Whats that trick again?

Going for test drive now. Will share results shortly............
 
You really need a reprint of the original owner's manual. It is not expensive and will set you straight on the Model A basics, (settings, driving, adjustments...) Your carb may need a clean/adjust, now that you may have a good manifold seal to block. Plugs should not be sooted up if you are driving with proper adjustments. Other more in-depth repair books are out there, many are a great value to the A owner. Lastly, we're always here too!---Pete.
 
6.50 x 20 is what my AA 280A came from the factory with. (the spare was an original factory issue when I bought it in 1955)
 
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