Point's corrode ?

G

Greg way out West

Member



Hi guy's


If I don't start the engine for a long time...It won't start ?...I traced it down too slight corrosion on the point's...As I live close to the Ocean,How do I prevent this,,,Put a small piece of paper between the point's ? Also what's the best way to clean the point's ???...



Greg out "WEST"






 
Sometimes is the points are lightly corroded, rubbing a fresh, folded dollar bill in between will clean them without doing damage.
 
BrianBurkert said:
Sometimes is the points are lightly corroded, rubbing a fresh, folded dollar bill in between will clean them without doing damage.
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You would have trouble doing that here in Canada! We use coins for the $1 and $2 money. Can anyone loan me a $50 or $100, no wait, they won't work either, they're plastic! Whats this world coming to? Jim
 
It is caused by moisture condensation in the distributor. Is the location where you keep the car dry and heated? My tractor that lives in the barn does this and I glued a desiccant pack from a pill bottle in an unobtrusive place within the distributor and so far things have been better. You can buy a points file/burnisher, it comes in handy for these problems.
 
I wonder if there are different metals on the contacts.

Not long ago I went through my points pile. I have some NOS old Ford points and the contacts look like new. I have a NORS old stock on a card (for hanging in the store) and the appear to be lower quality and the point contacts are covered with white stuff.

Most of the older used points I have are in excellent condition. Only a few had issues that would prevent me from using them. Some of the lower quality units did not fit the post nice and the wear block was worn at an angle. Only one was had a wear block worn too far for me to consider usable.

All my points have been stored in a basement and I live 8 miles from the shore and 1 mile from the bay.

You may want to consider changing points. Either NOS older Ford or some decent used older points that have nice contacts.
 
I used Snap-On Flexstones, Just insert it, hold points together with slight pressure with left forefinger & thumb, and drag it through a couple of times. Worked very well. Can't seem to buy them any more?? Bill W.
 
If there is an oxide layer, burnishing with paper may get your engine started, but it will also embed the oxide into the rough surface. The problem will soon recur. Time to get back to bare, clean, flat metal with an ignition points file.
 
Years ago, my Dad used to take a common paper match and drag the stem through the points. It burnishes the tungsten just enough to make a connection. Gar Williams
 
IF the contacts are silver plated you can buy paper to put between them which will keep them from oxidizing.

OR you could convert it to electronic ignition but chances are I'm going to wish I never said this within a few hours. :)
 
MrTube said:
IF the contacts are silver plated you can buy paper to put between them which will keep them from oxidizing.

OR you could convert it to electronic ignition but chances are I'm going to wish I never said this within a few hours. :)
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OMG:eek: May the lightning bolts of Thor strike you down and blow out the control unit in the control box.!:p:D:) LOL
 
What about before you go to store the car for a period, spraying the cap and points with a thin film layer of WD to keep the moisture off that will get in through the advance lever window? WD doesn't build up and eventually will "evaporate".
 
I am certified to rebuild relays for railroad use. I found that silver contacts will last longer polished...however tungsten will start to deteriate within hours after burnishing. I can rebuild a relay and get all the readings to specs. and the next day none will make specs. Once in operation, all reading will be close to perfect...but will be within spec.Just start to oxidize because of exposure to our air
 
I think this is a common problem. Use a point file or just pull a small piece of sandpaper through the points, followed by a piece of paper. This has worked for over 80 years on Model A points.
 
High humidity will always do it over time.

Picture this: In an area with high humidity, walk outside with a hot cup of coffee & a glass of ice cold water. Out side of glass immediately gets wet, outside of coffee cup stays dry. Humid warm air condenses on cooler surfaces, not on warm surfaces. Temperature of metal points drops at night, warmer air on following day condenses on the cooler metal point surfaces promoting oxidation.

Even though expensive, in an enclosed garage, one remedy is to place a dehumidifier in the garage. In arid regions, with dry air, this is not a problem.

Point file is the one of the best tools for removing this mild insulating corrosion on points -- it removes mild corrosion, but not much metal, & leaves no grit residue from sandpaper.
 
Jeff, yes solid silver, tungsten, and carbon contacts. Everything is locked up..camera on the property...security is unbelivable.
 
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