Horn problems

BILLF/TRF

BILLF/TRF

Senior Member
My horn (on a '31 tudor) was working just fine last year but when I turned on the ignition key today, smoke started to come out of the horn motor so I quickly turned the key off. The only difference I can think of is that I replaced the steering gear end plate due to leaking oil and I took off the light bar this winter when I repainted the engine. Could it be a short somewhere? Bad ground? Any ideas? :confused:
 
That would be my first guess... Go over all the wiring and see if they are tight and connected right. I would take of the back of the horn cover and see what is smoking and check for damage
 
The strange thing is that the horn button was not depressed at all--the horn just started smoking. I took off the cover and other than the smoky smell all looks ok. The armature spins ok. I am going to hook the horn directly to a 6 volt battery and see if it works.
 
Turning the key on, should no affect on the horn, as it is always hot. That is if it is wired like it came from the factory. I would check all the connections in the llight switch body also. It sounds like they are okay, but a definite short in the horn does exsist.
 
It's one of those "black box" things. It's probably no good now because you let the smoke out!! Package it up and send it to me and I'll see if it can be fixed....
 
fordfixer said:
Turning the key on, should no affect on the horn, as it is always hot. That is if it is wired like it came from the factory. I would check all the connections in the llight switch body also. It sounds like they are okay, but a definite short in the horn does exsist.
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I checked to see if the wire to the horn was hot even with the key off and sure enough it was! Thank goodness for battery disconnect switches! Everyone should install one to protect from a potential fire!! I also removed the horn and tested it on a 6 volt battery and it did not spin unless I moved the armature a little and then it would go about an eighth turn and quit. I didn't see any obvious short from a visual inspection of the horn motor but it must need to be repaired. Anyone have a recommendation on who to send it (sparton)to? Thanks for the advice fordfixer!
 
I hate to admit it but I may have been at fault for the horn short. It seems that I replaced the original screw that attaches the horn motor cover to its frame and I think it may have been too long, touched one of the brushes and "fried" the motor. Moral of the story, use original parts whenever possible!
 
BILLF/TRF said:
I hate to admit it but I may have been at fault for the horn short. It seems that I replaced the original screw that attaches the horn motor cover to its frame and I think it may have been too long, touched one of the brushes and "fried" the motor. Moral of the story, use original parts whenever possible!
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I bought that screw from a very reputable vendor, and I too noticed that it was too long (fortunately while the battery was out). I had to trim it.

Doug
 
Just something else to consider, I had no horn and lights intermittently, replaced headlight switch and wiring, had power to lights and wiper, pushed horn button and every thing went away. After some head scratching and checking with a volt meter I found the problem was from the terminal box to the ammeter. Even though the wires looked good they were frayed inside and at the connectors, to few of strands to make a complete connection. Replaced wires and connectors and viola, lights ,horn, and ammeter works. The Aaooga sound is music to my ears. Hope this helps someone.
 
Mike , this may work to rebuild the horn motor.

Bob
 

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those horn screws are notorious. There are a lot of A owners out there who learned to check the screw the same way you just did. As mentioned, even the "reputable" repro screws are not reputable. A correct original has only a short threaded section at the tip, the remainder of the screw is shank, so it cannot be screwed in too far, yet can be tightened.
 
pat in Santa Cruz said:
those horn screws are notorious. There are a lot of A owners out there who learned to check the screw the same way you just did. As mentioned, even the "reputable" repro screws are not reputable. A correct original has only a short threaded section at the tip, the remainder of the screw is shank, so it cannot be screwed in too far, yet can be tightened.
Click to expand...
if one knows the correct length of origional screw then someone should be able to be able to tape off the tip of a correct overall length of repro screw and put epoxy or jb weld in the threaded "shank" area so it cant be overtightened
 
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