Ted's Floaters on newly rebuilt brake system?

@Flathead Ted I believe the reference was to the length of the adjusting shafts at the top of the shoes not the actual pins. Which would make more sense if you think about it.
 
Sonny. Brent or brett dosent borther me by maknig snide remarkse or puttnig othre people down. I am to old to let childish things borthre me. Love you brent.
 
Some people think they are the best. After fighting with them for a long time, reading all I could, ordering the video and asking numerous questions. I took them off. I personnaly think they are more bother that they are worth. A good working stock system with new style shoes and drums work just as well. If they lock the drums that is all they are designed to do.
 
sonny30coupe said:
Why is Brett always so condescending? He is always making snide remarks and putting others down for their lack of knowledge or for having different points of view than his. So what that he misspelled amaze. Does it make you feel better Brett that you caught the misspelling and outed him for it? What a piece of work.
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I am NOT condescending nor am/was I trying to put anyone down! If it was taken that way by mkmskm then I apologize as that was not my intent. I simply asked an honest question to mkmskm regarding if sliding the tires was the key factor in winning the game --or they were impressed because of the Flathead Ted kit. Jerry is the one that came along trying to be antagonistic by saying it was as simple as a.b.c. Maybe it was to Jerry but it apparently wasn't to me.
 
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Tom,
Since you are doing the system 'new'/correctly , the answer is NO! I did what you are doing and I can not imagine the mechanicals working any better than they do now!
 
I wish i new what antagonistic means, i am sure it means something good coming from brent. One thing i do know my flat head floaters work great on my 31 s/w been on for over a year with no adjustments. Drive it about ever day.
 
JK Its clear what hes referring to .,I have scanned my in box looking for Bubby Sharp,Its hard when they dont use there real name . Its well known that I will spend all time necessary to coach any one who contacts me , ,I get your point though the shaft could do with lengthening a bit for ease of installation.
jkeesey said:
@Flathead Ted I believe the reference was to the length of the adjusting shafts at the top of the shoes not the actual pins. Which would make more sense if you think about it.
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Save your money ! Took the set off mine after about three years . Got tired of them pulling screeching and grabbing . No such problems with the standard set up . Also noticed most of the roller pins are under size in the shaft size by .005 or so and that causes you to have to build up the tracks by an extra .010 or .015 . Brattons has the best as far as size is conserned . I ordered from three sources and Brattons were the correct shaft size. I have done about a dozen complete brake jobs so this is not my first rodeo. I have a jig I use in the mill and can get the tracks within a couple thousands of each other. Apparently otherpeople are satisfied with them but I was not. Bubby Sharp in KY
 
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Someone please enlighten me on something (and this is not sarcasm) about the stock front brake system. Does the wedge float somewhat so that the shoes can push against each other as they're being forced outward, making equal pressure applied on each shoe? Or are the shoes pushed out separately, without the ability to equalise the the pressure on leading and secondary shoe? My thinking is, if the shoes, per side, can't equalise, then the leading shoe will want to wear faster than the trailing shoe, so that, then, the wedge will be pushing primarily against the trailing shoe, which doesn't "self energize" and doesn't make much stopping power. And then, when the adjuster is turned a notch, it still does nothing to equalize the two shoes. So, the floater's duty is to allow the shoes to push against each other as they're being forced out, and getting full pressure on both shoes. If the stock system allows for some float or equalization, then it seems the floaters would be less of an improvement. Also, if the stock system seems to equalise by the fact that if one shoe starts to wear then the other one gets the contact pressure, doesn't that mean that only the equivalent of one shoe at a time is getting the pressure? No doubt, properly rebuilt and adjusted A brakes will lock up all fours, but I still wonder about getting the best or better out of them. It's late at night for me and maybe I shouldn't post when I'm tired.
 
FlatheadTed , Sorry for the confusion about the pins. I was refering to the pins available from the parts houses , not yours . If you use an undersize pin (see your picture # 3 ) in a shoe with an oversize hole it will let the shoe droop due to the pin rocking and make centering difficult. Buy the way my measutments agree with yours. Thank You Bubby Sharp in KY
 
OK Bubby my apologies as well .Jim you have pretty much got it in the bag .On a stock system they don't center as well as you apply the brake the shoes become oval .On floaters Its the ability of the shoes to conform to the drum under braking the free movement of the adjuster links is important and can required grinding and polishing . Its advisable to do final adjustments on the ground I have seen movement in the king pin to Axle /wheel bearing . ,as soon as you jack it up the stub drops causing the drum to rub and loosening the king pin rod .This rod binds up in the top of repoped king pins ,we bend a 2% bend in them .(Copy right FHT )
Jim Huseby said:
Someone please enlighten me on something (and this is not sarcasm) about the stock front brake system. Does the wedge float somewhat so that the shoes can push against each other as they're being forced outward, making equal pressure applied on each shoe? Or are the shoes pushed out separately, without the ability to equalize the the pressure on leading and secondary shoe? My thinking is, if the shoes, per side, can't equalize, then the leading shoe will want to wear faster than the trailing shoe, so that, then, the wedge will be pushing primarily against the trailing shoe, which doesn't "self energize" and doesn't make much stopping power. And then, when the adjuster is turned a notch, it still does nothing to equalize the two shoes. So, the floater's duty is to allow the shoes to push against each other as they're being forced out, and getting full pressure on both shoes. If the stock system allows for some float or equalization, then it seems the floaters would be less of an improvement. Also, if the stock system seems to equalize by the fact that if one shoe starts to wear then the other one gets the contact pressure, doesn't that mean that only the equivalent of one shoe at a time is getting the pressure? No doubt, properly rebuilt and adjusted A brakes will lock up all fours, but I still wonder about getting the best or better out of them. It's late at night for me and maybe I shouldn't post when I'm tired.
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I too have Ted's system on my Roadster, but I would say the first thing is to do the entire braking system right. Years ago I bought the "Stop on a Dime" video. Following this from the brake pedal to the actual wheel hubs will just amaze you as to how much of the potential problem is before you even get to the brake shoes and drums. Do everything on this video and I agree you will be able to lock the brakes up. But having done all that I still like the Ted's added to the brakes.
 
If the drums are worn I use 1/4 linings, or the first thing I do is I replace or weld the ends about 1/8 to 1/4 on the two adjuster links and the King push rod . On new drums 3/16 linings ,weld the king rod only .with the clevis pins removed check the return of the pedal that its nice and free ,I set the black anchor plate/stamping . about level then check movement at the top adjuster links .The nut can be finger tight .work the clevis with the drum on ,the plate may move a little .You can set the plate up with 3 layers of electrical tape across the lining ,then remove the tape later . If you don't get the fronts sliding straight of then the your type of lining material needs to be looked at (May need running in ) ?. (C) FHT
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
"amase" = ???

My point (--just like others have elluded to above) is that for those of us who have correctly operating 'as-originally manufactured' brakes, they already will slide all four wheels under severe braking. Therefore what is the point or benefit? Repair/restore what it was when it was originally manufactured and see how well they work.

As far as requiring less pedal effort, remove a spring from each brake shoe on a stock braking system and I find it will do the same as a F/H Ted system. As simple as "a.b.c.".




What do you suppose made the difference?
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Brent, the difference is "ELLUDED SHOULD BE SPELLED ELUDED" .....

e·lud·ed, e·lud·ing, e·ludes
1. To evade or escape from, as by daring, cleverness, or skill: The suspect continues to elude the police.
2. To escape the understanding or grasp of: a name that has always eluded me; a metaphor that eluded them.

al·lud·ed, al·lud·ing, al·ludes
To make an indirect reference:
 
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Since we are on the subject I will add a few more comments , ,One other thing to consider is to make sure your rollers fit in the cut outs in the stamping and the shoes don't flop over .the springs needs to be attached from the rear I realize floaters may not be for every one ,but if you can perceiver then you can get good results .I had a British car in the shop.(Pict ) the other day and the concept of the floating brake was pressed home to me .I noticed the lower actuater (in this case a push pull device ) had a floater built in to it but was seized up, by freeing this and adding somthing to the top we got excellent brakes (C)FHT ,Yes Snyder's and Macs carry my products
CarlG said:
When I bought mine, Ted said just to order them from Snyders
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