Oil pump test

[flatjack9]

Here's a picture of the oil pump test rig I built. Sawed the corner out of a junk block. Works great, but I haven't had time to do any evaluations yet. Drill turns at 600 rpm wihich would be 1200 engine rpm. I plan on putting on a bigger bottle so I can check flow rates at different pressure settings.

 

[Henry/Kokomo]

Nice rig. I built one out of PVC pipe to jacket the oil pump and held the pump and powered it in a small drill press. Worked fine but was messy. I like yours better. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Kahuna]

What is the purpose of this tester?
Thanks
Jim

 

[G.M.]

A small oil pump tester can be built with a small section of PVC pipe, a pressure gauge and a 1/2 electric drill. Read the oil pressure problems posted on Ford forums as well as the oil pressure most old Ford owners report and that should tell you the purpose of testing a pump. You can put a pump in oil and turn the drive gear by hand and in 2 or 3 turns it pumps a full stream of oil. Skip did just that on an engine we rebuilt for his 34 P/U. I said we have a tester let's check it and as soon as the output was slightly restricted like the restriction in the engine from bearings etc the oil pressure went to almost zero. We had a Lincoln V-12 a number of years ago that had pretty good oil pressure and after a while it slowly dropped. at 15 lbs the lifters started singing, at 10 lb got louder and at 8 lb realy got loud. We thought the rear main was leaking, wasn't that. We pressureized the the oil system with the pan off and no big leak. That's when we built the tester and it held a steady 45 then started slowly comming down and stayed there until it was shut off and restarted and the proccess repeated. We cleaned the bypass valve and made a shim and adjusted the height of the shim for 55 lbs of pressure. Put it back in the engine and it's been running and went on several tours for 6 years and still has good pressure. I wouldn't put any pump used or new in an engine without SEEING the output of the pump. Then I want to see the oil pressure in the engine as to what it will be on the road. With the engine sitting on the floor put oil in (I use 20/50) remove the plugs and with the intake manifold removed and a mechanical pressure gauge in the sender port oil the cylinders and spin the engine with 12 volts. This will show you what the pressure will be driving the car. If low remove the bypass valve in the front of the valve valley and shim the spring, do not stretch it. 1/8" brass pipe cut about 1/8 or 3/16 long is a good starting length. Make sure the hole in the shim clears the shank on the valve. Test again and get it in the 50 lb range. This is much easier and tells the story before putting the engine in and going through all the horror stories I have seen on this and other forums. G.M.

 

[1952henry]

A small oil pump tester can be built with a small section of PVC pipe, a pressure gauge and a 1/2 electric drill. Read the oil pressure problems posted on Ford forums as well as the oil pressure most old Ford owners report and that should tell you the purpose of testing a pump. You can put a pump in oil and turn the drive gear by hand and in 2 or 3 turns it pumps a full stream of oil. Skip did just that on an engine we rebuilt for his 34 P/U. I said we have a tester let's check it and as soon as the output was slightly restricted like the restriction in the engine from bearings etc the oil pressure went to almost zero. We had a Lincoln V-12 a number of years ago that had pretty good oil pressure and after a while it slowly dropped. at 15 lbs the lifters started singing, at 10 lb got louder and at 8 lb realy got loud. We thought the rear main was leaking, wasn't that. We pressureized the the oil system with the pan off and no big leak. That's when we built the tester and it held a steady 45 then started slowly comming down and stayed there until it was shut off and restarted and the proccess repeated. We cleaned the bypass valve and made a shim and adjusted the height of the shim for 55 lbs of pressure. Put it back in the engine and it's been running and went on several tours for 6 years and still has good pressure. I wouldn't put any pump used or new in an engine without SEEING the output of the pump. Then I want to see the oil pressure in the engine as to what it will be on the road. With the engine sitting on the floor put oil in (I use 20/50) remove the plugs and with the intake manifold removed and a mechanical pressure gauge in the sender port oil the cylinders and spin the engine with 12 volts. This will show you what the pressure will be driving the car. If low remove the bypass valve in the front of the valve valley and shim the spring, do not stretch it. 1/8" brass pipe cut about 1/8 or 3/16 long is a good starting length. Make sure the hole in the shim clears the shank on the valve. Test again and get it in the 50 lb range. This is much easier and tells the story before putting the engine in and going through all the horror stories I have seen on this and other forums. G.M.[/QUOTE

Pics, please. Probably posted them before, but would like to see again.