Oil modification full flow

H

habbott

Member
I getting ready to do the oil modification on my 59A but I am confused. Read many different threads. Attached are some articles with good information.

One articles call for a 9/16 hole drilled down into the pump cavity the other use 7/16 hole which is correct.

The hole you drill for the return line and enlarge to 3/8 NPT how far do drill this hole. The horizontal oil gallery size is only about 13/32. Do you increase this gallery to 9/16 as well or do you just drill till you break through.
 

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The 95% one looks ok to me. When doing this type of modification alittle common sense is all it takes. Yoy might find the cross passage way alittle large for a 7/16 plug. However you don't need a full thread.
 
I used the Carl Roseville write-up that I downloaded from Bill B's old msn flathead ford v8 1932-53 website when I built my last 59 engine. I believe this is basically the same method 'Ol Ron covers in his book. Prior to that I used the MCF 100% full flow system from Mark Kirby, who is no longer in that business, on my '35 21 stud engine build. I like the MCF system best but I did have some initial complications with installation on that one.
 
I'd take that MCF full flow set up and stick it, with all that plumming inside the pan and coming out the side of the pan. One of those set up was enough for me. Some people scare people by saying the rear main don't get filted oil, so what, with all that oil going through the full flow filter I'd say the rear main is getting pretey clean oil. Flatheads never had much of a filter. You can strip 100 flatheads and the rear main is usually the best looking bearing in the engine. Walt
 
Hey Walt, if you still have that MCF system that you didn't like and removed, I'll buy it from you....unless you stuck it in a trash can and it's now burried under tons of trash at some dump in Gardiner, Maine. I would love to put another MCF system on my Avatar car. I came up with a good way to avoid those plumbing problems you speak of. Most folks don't even see the outside pluming or the filter when I open the hood on my '35 fordor and it's working like a champ!! Then on the other hand how about the guy who posted here about modifying his engine for the partial flow system and thought he could temporarily block off the ports where the oil lines connected to the filter. He wound up ruining all the bearings and some other components in his newly built engine. Why? Because he forgot to use the bypass feature designed for the Canadian engines. Nothing is perfect especially when it's not assembled correctly. JMO
 
flatjack9 said:
That is the old MCF system. I like it just because with the 95% system, it's hard to access those lines in a lot of cars.
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Yes, I knew someone else like maybe 'Hot Rod Custom'? was selling Mark's FF system but believe they went belly up and I didn't know if anyone else had picked it up for their line. I spoke to Mark K. at several shows and he didn't know of anyone at that time who might be carrying his old design system either. Thanks for the heads up on where it get one.
 
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JM 35 Sedan said:
Hey Walt, if you still have that MCF system that you didn't like and removed, I'll buy it from you....unless you stuck it in a trash can and it's now burried under tons of trash at some dump in Gardiner, Maine. I would love to put another MCF system on my Avatar car. I came up with a good way to avoid those plumbing problems you speak of. Most folks don't even see the outside pluming or the filter when I open the hood on my '35 fordor and it's working like a champ!! Then on the other hand how about the guy who posted here about modifying his engine for the partial flow system and thought he could temporarily block off the ports where the oil lines connected to the filter. He wound up ruining all the bearings and some other components in his newly built engine. Why? Because he forgot to use the bypass feature designed for the Canadian engines. Nothing is perfect especially when it's not assembled correctly. JMO
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No John, I did use that MCF system on an engine I built for a guy in NJ, It was quite an engine, .125 bore, 4-1/8 stroke, 284ci, Crower roller cam .450 lift, I forget the heads, I think they were Offys, 3 carb 97's. 37 LaSalle trans, Quick change rear, in a 35 street coupe. The guy is in his 70's and just love the car, drives it all the time. Walt
 
Ol' Ron said:
The 95% one looks ok to me. When doing this type of modification alittle common sense is all it takes. Yoy might find the cross passage way alittle large for a 7/16 plug. However you don't need a full thread.
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Ron, the 95% method talks about rotating the rear cam bearing. I have an 8BA that has new cam bearings already fitted. Does this mean that I won't be able the use this method for better oiling?
Thanks Robert1936
 
Don't rotate cam bearings in anything... There is no reason to do it. And, if you ever decide to run a mechanical fuel pump, you got a problem.
Karl
 
In the process of rebuilding a '53 8BA and decided to go with the 95% filter modification. Going to use the remote spin-on filter setup I bought from Mac's auto which replaces the original cartridge filter. I plan on taking the orifice out of the inlet fitting so it should work like a full flow filter. My question is, what size lines do I use to and from the filter? The fittings are 1/4" tube but I could change them to 3/8". None of the articles I've read states what size the lines should be.
 
Better read some more

This isn’t a take one off and bolt the other on kind of thing.
Holes must be drilled and tapped and one internal one plugged
 
Rotating the rear cam bearing is only used if you plan on using an electric fuel pump and is not necessary for any other reason. This prevents the oil mist found on the firewall after a long run with the 59 blocks.
With the 8BA blocks you MUST rotate the rear cam bearing if you remove the fuel pump bushing and plug it This will prevent the pressurized oil from entering the rear cam bearing causing oil starvation in the fron and center mains. Best to study how the oil system works.
 
I am in trouble big time, did 100% filtered,Canadian block( seems like thats all we have), I removed the pushrod bushing plugged the hole,drilled the block from rear cam bearing ,don't think I turned it, down to the rear bearing new hole in bearing and plugged the original oil hole from the oil pump. Where the oil preasure sender/filter is screwed in there are two holes one up from pump the other is into the gallery going to the engine, plugged between these oil comes up out side hole through the oil filter then back in the other hole it's run now for 10 000 miles. Forgot where I read about this---I guess ihad better find it! Laurie
 
Walt Dupont--Me. said:
No John, I did use that MCF system on an engine I built for a guy in NJ, It was quite an engine, .125 bore, 4-1/8 stroke, 284ci, Crower roller cam .450 lift, I forget the heads, I think they were Offys, 3 carb 97's. 37 LaSalle trans, Quick change rear, in a 35 street coupe. The guy is in his 70's and just love the car, drives it all the time. Walt
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Hi Walt can you tell me more about the roller cam specs?
How much do the roller lifters weight?
What spring pressure did you use?
Thanks
Michael
 
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