EAB Flathead crank pulleys and intakes

Zombiescustoms

Zombiescustoms

Junior Member
I posted this on the HAMB, but got no response.
I have just started mocking up my Deuce Tudor engine, and I from all the searching I have done cannot figure out what crankshaft pulley to use, the stock truck one hits the crossmember, I know most people use a model A member but mine is a stock deuce member and I am using the original 32 mounts that bolt to the front of the block. the motor sits perfect, the crank bolt is dead centered in the handcrank hole. Do I have to cut the crossmember or is there a pully that will clear it?? I am using the truck water pumps so I need the wide belt pulley, or should I get the earlier car pumps? The next issue I have is I bought an old Fenton intake and carbs, but I think it may be for an earlier motor as it has 22 mounting holes and my motor has only 14, and I'm totally lost as to how to get the generator/alt, fan to work with this whole setup, this is my first flathead car build so any help is welcomed!!
here are some pics illustrating what I am referring to:
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If your only going to use one belt, I think you can cut the front shive off the truck pulley, that shive is used for the fan belt. That intake is a 48 or older, it can be used with that 8BA engine but you have got do some figuring on the breather system. Walt
 
I think the biggest issue I have is the intake, it does not have enough clearance for a generator in the stock location, and I'm assuming that the breather tube needs to be over the tube that is in the block and not over the fuel pump rod. I guess I can't run the earlier pumps because of the distributor clearance, so I will have to cut up a truck pulley, and notch the crossmember.
 
If you don't want to cut your truck pulley I have a single groove wide belt '39 standard pulley that will work; also the late truck pumps (8RT 8503) should give you the clearance you need. You may find it easier to go with an electric fan for the radiator.
 
Is there a difference between the late truck pumps and what I currently have? The 39 pulley goes inside of the cam gear cover correct? My pulley stops at the cover, I think there is a ring that is pressed on the end of my crank that the pulley stops at, not sure if the 39 pulley will work. I still think which ever way I go I will still need to trim the crossmember.
 
Zombiescustoms said:
Is there a difference between the late truck pumps and what I currently have? The 39 pulley goes inside of the cam gear cover correct? My pulley stops at the cover, I think there is a ring that is pressed on the end of my crank that the pulley stops at, not sure if the 39 pulley will work. I still think which ever way I go I will still need to trim the crossmember.
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The difference in the pumps is that the later pumps "
are" the motor mounts and not separate pieces as you currently have on your 8BA. Yes, the rear of the '39 pulley will go into the timing gear cover opening as it has an integral sleeve at the rear that will eliminate the slide on sleeve you now have on the 8BA crank.
 
If you use the 39 pulley even by removeing the 8BA seal sleeve the belt won't line up with the truck pumps. You could use the 59AB pumps but the belts will hit the 8BA dist. If it was mine I'd install a 59AB cam and pumps and use the front crab dist. BUT, the easiest way would be just remove the front shive from the 8BA pully and run an electric fan. Walt
 
Using the 8BA type stuff in the earlier type cars can always be frustrating. You can change all the frontal components and heads to the 59A or earlier type stuff but you will have to plug a few water ports to use the earlier heads. All the older stuff can be made to fit but you would have to procure what you don't have. The late 8BA cast iron crank pulley would be easier to modify than the truck type pulley but you would need 3/8" belts. As was already mentioned, the early pulleys can be made to work by removing the extended portion. The real early ones back to 1932 would have to have the snout shortened on the crank to work but you would likely have to use the 37 thru 48 type water pumps to get alignment issues settled. Early style heads allow for generator placement right or left of center without worrying about the water outlets being in the way but I've seen set ups on the HAMB that work with EAB heads.

Kerby
 
It's the rear shive that I am having clearance issues with on my crossmember, I am going to buy another late truck crank pulley an see what needs to be trimmed to clear it
 
The early 49-50 crank pulley were steel and had wide belts. I wouldn't try modafiing one of those truck cast iron pulleys, they weigh a ton. Walt
 
Walt Dupont--Me. said:
If you use the 39 pulley even by removeing the 8BA seal sleeve the belt won't line up with the truck pumps. You could use the 59AB pumps but the belts will hit the 8BA dist. If it was mine I'd install a 59AB cam and pumps and use the front crab dist. BUT, the easiest way would be just remove the front shive from the 8BA pully and run an electric fan. Walt
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You're right Walt about the '39 pulley, went in the garage to confirm what you said. Heard somewhere that would clear the cross member, also heard that you could cut the front pulley off the '49 passenger car double pulley. Bob
 
Zombiescustoms said:
It's the rear shive that I am having clearance issues with on my crossmember, I am going to buy another late truck crank pulley an see what needs to be trimmed to clear it
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Like Walt says, get an 8BA wide belt passenger car (5/8") double pulley & cut off the front pulley. If you replace the intake I would go with an Edelbrock as the Offenhauser has an offset for the generator for some reason.
 
The early pumps won't last long on the late engine, gue to lack of lubrication. You can solve this problem by having them rebuilt by skip.
 
All late pumps have the first sheave too far out in order to clear the sideways distributor.
Swapping to early system moves that first sheave back to where it lived in 1932, but requires swapping to early cam and distributor.
The substantial clearance benefits in an early chassis and the cheap, excellent crab distributor are I think worth the trouble of the swap.
There are now multiple sources for sealed bearing early pumps, Skip's consistently get good reviews here. I posted some dimensional stuff on all of this on same question on the HAMB
 
PS...any 1939-48 pulley will fit your crank. Most are double sheave or fan mount, so the extra stuff gets cut away leaving the tube and flange that gets tightened to the crank.
The actual single sheave pulley (1939 standard only) was supplied by Ford on late engines (59A) being supplied as replacements for early cars but is now growing scarce.
 
I talked with a friend from Denmark, and he used a French Flathead in a stock 32 frame, and raised the front up 3/4" ad was able to clear the double pulley. I'm not sure if they are exactly the same as the late EAB motor that I have but it may be worth looking into.
 
The front of the SIMCA SUMB engines are the same as an 8BA type. The rear is more like the 59A & earlier except for the governor pad stuff.

A lot of rodders do use blocks of some sort to elevate the engine up a little higher. This will solve the crank pulley clearance problem but may create problems with fan clearance on the radiator depending on what fan set up you want to use. Your crank hole will no longer align and you will have to check for issued with the firewall & aft motor mount that might crop up. I know the 8BA types will clear in a 32 if elevated but they won't in a 29 without moving the radiator forward or the firewall aft. I'm planning on using the 59A frontal engine accessory type stuff in my 29 model A build using an 8BA type engine. The fan is going to be the fun part but where there is a will there is a way.

Kerby
 
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