1934 Ford 221 V8 Engine

[My 34 Ford]

I need some advice about rebuilding a 34 21 stud engine. Some years ago I acquired a 34 engine as a spare for my 34 car. Some time in the past some one took off one of the heads and the crank and left the block sit partly exposed to the elements. One of the cylinders filled with water and has rusted through to the water jacket. The rest of the cylinders with the missing head although rusty I think will clean up. The engine has never been bored and the side with the head is in much better shape. Here is my question. Can this engine be sleeved and saved? The rust hole is about the size of a nickle about half way down. If the bad cylinder can be sleeved is it better to sleeve all cylinders or just the one that needs it. The other question I have is if this engine can be saved what options do I have with a Crank for this non insert engine. What years will work in this engine, must I find a 32 to 36 or can a later year be used? If this engine can not be saved I will scrap it as I have keep it as a possible spare. Thanks for your advise

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

My opinon. If the other cyl. will clean at .060 I'd sleeve the one with the hole. I would'nt bore any of the early engine over .060 Your pretty well stuck with the 34 or 35 crank and have the block rebebbitted. I think there is a few places like H-H that will line bore block for insert bearings. (big bucks) Walt

 

[bobH]

Not to 'dispute' Walt - he's the expert. But, looking at the H&H site, they have all their prices posted. Look under shop - blocks - services. The posted price to convert mains is $650 - includes align bore, convert babbit to insert, includes crank grind modification, and Bearings. What is the current price to re-babbit, including grinding the crank ? I don't have any idea, but I'm guessing that it might be somewhat 'comparable' for re-babbit, vs converting to inserts ??? (I'm not saying that you would necessarily want to do this - just asking about price comparison.)
(Can also check out their price to sleeve one (or all) cyl.)

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

BoB H. I didn't realise it was that cheap. I did a 34 engine last winter, had to send the block and crank to to Mass to be rebabitted, lined bore, and crank ground and installed. $750.00 I don't know what it would cost to ship the block to Calf from Me. I'm sure it would be expensive. But that's a good price at H-H Walt

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Your avatar and your personal profile gives us absolutely no clue as to where you are located. If folks here knew approximately where you are, perhaps someone near you would have a crankshaft that would drop right in that '34 engine at a very reasonable price and solve at least one of your problems. For instance, if you lived near me I have maybe six good '35-'36 (non LB) crankshafts just quietly waiting for their turn for the right opportunity to get back into making some revolutions again in a little 221 FH V8 engine

 

[David J]

Like already pointed out above cranks to put in your 34 are pretty common . I put them in two categories- forged & cast . 38coup did a block ID thread & this is detailed there . Actually if you make sure your crank gear & your cam gear match any 32-36 non-insert crank will work fine . Your call on the block thing but again - they're not hard to find .

 

[jimTN]

I would wonder what shell bearings H&H wold use if they converted a non insert block to insert since the cap bolts are closer together on a non insert engine.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would wonder what shell bearings H&H wold use if they converted a non insert block to insert since the cap bolts are closer together on a non insert engine.

They machine the crank main journals down to fit some other standard size bearing that probably has the thickness that's necessary, which I don't really care for because I feel it weakens the crankshaft. One of the H&H guys is a member who posts here at times, so if we could only remember his screen name we could pm him and get his input on this.