OK, I'm really stuck.

Rakkasan

Rakkasan

Member
I'm removing the water pumps from my '36 Phaeton and I don't know how to remove the temperature sending unit. Is there a trick to it or is it frozen in place because I can't get it to move.
 
No trick. Just frozen in place. Try some penitrating oil. Careful and not strip or booger up the hex "head".
 
The holding nut came out easily and I'm trying to get the bulb out. I squirted in some penetrating oil but I wasn't sure if there was something I wasn't doing right.
 
Tighten the nut first and it will break the rust loose.
Works for me, you might have to do it a couple times.
Bill
 
Be Careful! I was putting on a newly rebuilt pump from Skip's on my `35 and couldn't get the bulb loose. I tried everything and I was the one that installed it. I remembered it going in with difficulty. It would not budge. I knew the temp unit was very fragile, so I decided the sacrifice my water pump, the least expensive of the two and save the temp unit, I started chipping away at the water pump with a hammer and chisel. Once I got the bulb clear it had a kink in the cable near the bulb. When I tried straightening it, it broke! I lost both the water pump and temp unit.

Shadetree
 
Rakkasan said:
I'm removing the water pumps from my '36 Phaeton and I don't know how to remove the temperature sending unit. Is there a trick to it or is it frozen in place because I can't get it to move.
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Thinking back at my mistakes, I would have tried removing the water pump and driving the bulb out with a wooden dowel pin. It would be a two man job and I don't have a water pump in front of me to see what it looks like inside removed from the engine, but this may be another option.

Shadetree
 
I just went thru a similar problem with my 37 engine. The temp bulb is in the frivers side head. I put all kinds of penetrating oil on it, day after day. Lots of theat pentrating magic elixir: 50% acetone plus 50% Trani fluid. I used several dental tools;the ones they scrape your teeth with plus a medical packer instrument and a small flat screwdriver. I tried pushing it down; gently pulling up on the tube/spring-like wire and getting the pick in next to the bulb and wiggling. After a week of daily trying GENTLY, it started to budge and today it came loose.
Good luck...patience here as the bulb is filled with Ether and parts are hard to find. You'll get it and when you do it's a great feeling.
Bruce
 
When you replace the bulb,file the hole for bulb to get rid of rust & crud.Add water pump lube or some soluble oil to rad to keep system clean.
 
Well, the bulb came loose and it looks ok minus a few scratches. I'm going to test it to see if it still works.

Thanks everyone.
 
Congratulations on its [hopefully] successful removal. When reinstalling it, liberally coat it with never seize compound and just 'nip' down the nut enough to seat the tapered seat. Will definitely pay dividends next time you or someone else needs to remove it. Brian
 
I've decided to give George "Skip" Haney a call tomorrow and send my pumps to him to rebuild. My '36 overheats really bad and I'm hoping the modified pumps will do the trick.
 
Rakkasan said:
I've decided to give George "Skip" Haney a call tomorrow and send my pumps to him to rebuild. My '36 overheats really bad and I'm hoping the modified pumps will do the trick.
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How's the radiator,Rakkasan? You may want to check it out. I had mine rodded last year because of over heating. And haven't had a problem since. Good luck
 
41 Fords ohio said:
How's the radiator,Rakkasan? You may want to check it out. I had mine rodded last year because of over heating. And haven't had a problem since. Good luck
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It's got some dents but not too bad. I checked the inside as best I could and it looked pretty darned clean. If the water pumps don't help then having the radiator worked on is my next project.
 
Rakkasan said:
It's got some dents but not too bad. I checked the inside as best I could and it looked pretty darned clean. If the water pumps don't help then having the radiator worked on is my next project.
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The radiator in my 37 looked ok it had some deposits,but when I took it in to the radiator shop they ended up taking it apart and ran rods through the cooling lines. I couldn't believe all the crap they got out of it. The guy there said alot of it was blocked and I was probably running on half my cooling area. It was 74 years old at the time. Works like a charm now. Anyway the pumps maybe all you need. Got to keep the old girl cool
 
RAK You want to order Skips 3 lb check valve. It's only $25.00 with no shipping charge when ordered with the pumps. This is a must on cars that are not equipted for a pressure cap. If you have any problems or questions before or after you install the pumps call Skip for professional help. G.M.
 
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