Reversing bells on 40 rear

[Sumfuncomet]

I want to reverse the akle housing bells on my axle and it seems simple enough, just pull them off and switch side to side. I understand that the gaskets set the lash on the ring and pinion. Should the gasket thickness be maintained on the bells or on the center?the gaskets used on each bell could be thicker on one side or the other....shoul this thickness be maintained on the bell housing or on the center section. I hope I made sense here!

 

[Sumfuncomet]

Me again...sorry for the atrocious typing!

 

[deuce lover]

The only years that can be reversed is 1935-36.The spring hangers will be the problem.

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

That's why he's reversing them, so to put the spring in front of the axel. It's not for a restored original car. Walt

 

[Karl Wolf]

I would keep the gasket dimentions with the center section, and I would check the backlash...
Karl

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

For what purpose are you reversing the bells? I believe I know one thing it would do for you (and some problems it may cause you) but I would be interested in hearing your reason(s) first. My thinking regarding your question is you will need to completely reset the backlash with the correct thickness gaskets on both sides because of all the variable tolerance differences you will encounter when switching the bells from side to side.

 

[Vergil]

Unless both bells were machined identical the carrier bearing cup will not be the same distance from side to side and if you are going to use the same bearings the cups will need to stay with the bearing they have been running against. I would shim it again with new shims (gaskets) to get the preload on it correct. Just my opinion.

Vergil

 

[V8COOPMAN]

I "borrowed" this pic off the HAMB, but this should explain WHY one would want to reverse the bells. DD

 

[PeteVS]

Is it possible that he could obtain the desired effect by just rotating each of the housings 180 degrees on the banjo casting? Not too sure, but if the spring hangers are on the axle centerline, they would be just be upside down with no great shakes. This would avoid having to redo bearing preload and backlash adjustments with the gaskets. (I know that '48 axle housings have the spring hangers on the axle centerline and I thought about doing this to avoid having to redo the bearing surfaces for a modified car. Redid them anyway.)

 

[Barry WNY]

I "borrowed" this pic off the HAMB, but this should explain WHY one would want to reverse the bells. DD]

I did that one. My rearend was left without the torque tube and the pinion double cup bearing set looked rusty from the outside, so I pulled it all apart & changed them all, requiring shimming from the start. If it is closed up & clean, I would say to attempt to keep the shim pack on the bell and swap them and see how it works. It is a struggle to get things together to test fit without damaging the delicate shims. I used 2 shim packs before I got it right.

Also change the axle seals inside the housings, & torque tube.
The earlier spring will be 1/2" narrower than the stock 37 shackles, I found brass bushing stock 3/8" ID x about 7/8" OD and made 1/4" spacers to fill the void rather than alter the rearend.
Oh, and the threads on the bell bolts are a "round" profile I guess, a 3/8" NF will screw in there with not much difficulty, but the originals will not work after that, so keep track of the originals. Some are rusted down to a smaller size (13 mm) so I save extras from junk rearends. BTDT

 

[Ol' Ron]

This is done sometimes to make clearance for a quick change.

 

[super flat]

This car is not ford barn friendly, but this gave room for the quick change and a large fuel tank under the rumble seat base. Gary

 

[Sumfuncomet]

Thanks for the replies. My buddy thought the gaskets could stay but he also said that I was putting a race and a bearing together that weren't used to each other. I did it anyway....it will serve its purpose right now for mockup. Yes...I am a HAMB member and yes I am building a modified similar to the one above. I have found great support in both forums and I need all the help I can get!

 

[bmodeltman]

just a thought but would you get better traction with the reversed housings due to the suspension forcing the front of the rear down verses having the spring at the rear pushing the front up or maybe with a closed shaft it doesn`t matter?sorta like traction bars.having the spring on the backside just looks more sturdier to me.it been done alot so i quess it`s ok.

 

[Barry WNY]

Thanks for the replies. My buddy thought the gaskets could stay but he also said that I was putting a race and a bearing together that weren't used to each other. I did it anyway....it will serve its purpose right now for mockup. Yes...I am a HAMB member and yes I am building a modified similar to the one above. I have found great support in both forums and I need all the help I can get!

I shortened my tube & driveshaft almost 18" and the shaft shortener guy said forget the center bearing, I did and ran 70 mph onthe maiden voyage and smooth as glass, so that is $400 saved, thanks Dave at Veridatum. But if ya got it, use it I suppose. It's not a road car, and doesn't get stuck in the mug bit of course I don't go slow in the greazy. Use the stock reliable cross steering I like it makes more sense than the push-pull stuff, I had a 49 F1 and it would have been a hassle so I went stock but JMO.