Old seat springs

[Scott H]

Wondering others experience with seat frames and seat springs. I've got the originals out of my 36 pickup. Not a stich of any kind of materials left on them, and they are rusty.




I've got experience reupholstering seats from 1960's cars so I think I can handle the work no problem. I'm just not sure if its worth re-using the originals or are they too far gone and I should get some reproduction springs/frames.

If I use the originals I'll tie the coils back together, cover with burlap, use a high density foam and then put the new covers on. Its a fair amount of work to have it turn out to be a disappointment. I guess worst case scenario if I don't like it I could remove all the material and transfer onto a new frame.

Thoughts or experiences?

 

[19Fordy]

Scott, I had the same problem with my 1940 Ford bench seat. In 1988, I sewed up new individual burlap bags for the springs and then bought and installed the correct and complete upholsterey kit from LeBaron Bonney. I used new hog rings. Yes, it's a lot of work, but it was worth it. Still looks like what you see in the photo. First, spray your springs with OSPHO to neutralize the rust and then paint them. If your springs are really weak and just don't have any more "bounce" I guess it would be best to replace them. Good luck.

 

[DavidG]

My experience with orginal versus reproduction seat springs is that the originals are sturdier in their construction and worth the effort to save them (they probably will fit better too). The usual casualty is the bottom spring for obvious reasons and it may not be saveable.

 

[Brendan]

i has my seat re done about 4 months ago, the guy used the original springs and the original ply wood on the bottom. he also cleaned and painted the springs. he did a great job, and it is very comfortable ...Brendan

 

[Scott H]

Brendan - love the way your seat turned out. I'm thinking the same style with different colors. Red outside with white pleats. Currently planning on the truck being antique white, aka Ford Wimbledon White.

What was that about plywood? does that go between the seat spring assembly and the cab seat support?

 

[Brendan]

yes, it also has 3 holes in it so you can adjust the seat back and forth

 

[flatheadfan]

Scott-

I agree with what others have said namely, try to keep your old springs. If you opt for new springs I am afraid you will be disappointed with what many suppliers call "new" seat springs. The original quality is just not there.

As mentioned, clean and then spray with a rust refomer and finally apply the paint. Now the important step. Get a role of burlap cord and tie all the springs together. I use a four-way pattern. This prevents any sideway movement of the coils. Granted this step is a little time consuming but it is easy. The result? The springs will sit like new and will hold their position after years of use. I do this whenever I have a seat apart and have never had a case of seat sagging even after years of use.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[19Fordy]

Here's a 1951 Mercury bottom front seat. Notice they used hog rings to secure the springs from tilting over. I did the same on my 40 seat. Just another idea you might want to try.

 

[Scott H]

Thanks, that photo is very helpful. I didn't realize each spring was in a burlap bag. I was planning on using string to tie each spring at 9-12-3-6 o'clock positions and using hog rings around the perimeter to tie the spring assembly to the outer part of the frame.

 

[Rascal]

Old spring wires are sturdy & are best retained if possible, tie them 4 ways with wide tie wraps & cover with a burlap or hession cloth using hog rings.this stops any future sagging & helps retain conformity.
after that you can recover with whatever you desire.
However, new springs for all models are availiable & cheap [macs], but the quality is not the same .

 

[kiwitony]

In my 37 pu I rebuilt the original springs,most on the drivers side were broken and my arse was on the plywood base.I swapped the springs from the centre to the drivers side as they hardly ever get used and welded the broken ones and put back in the middle.Tied all the springs together with hog rings and recovered,I couldn't believe the difference.I reckon it'll do another 70 years now.Happy new year.Kiwi Tony.

 

[Scott H]

yes, it also has 3 holes in it so you can adjust the seat back and forth

So I could probably make one by tracking the seat rising onto the plywood, cutting it out, and then drilling some locating holes?

By any chance could you post a picture of the underside of the plywood or perhaps give me some distance measurements between the holes?

I'm planning on using 3/4" plywood. Is that right or is it too thick?

 

[jerry grayson]

So I could probably make one by tracking the seat rising onto the plywood, cutting it out, and then drilling some locating holes?

By any chance could you post a picture of the underside of the plywood or perhaps give me some distance measurements between the holes?

I'm planning on using 3/4" plywood. Is that right or is it too thick?

The original plywood is 5/8. You may come out better by looking around for a better seat. The seat bottom is about the same 35 thru 41 or even later. They pretty much interchange.

 

[PeteVS]

I'm dealing with a spring issue also. Check out the 19th picture in the "Starting on the Fordor" thread. All of the coils are tied to their diagonal neighbors with smaller springs. Some times, they're clipped together if they sit right next to each other.

 

[Shu47]

I needed to replace a few of the individual seat springs broken in my 47 truck and the people at www.snydersantiqueauto.com fixed me up. The fit was perfect and my seat is back to like new.

 

[Fe26]

For a more comfortable ride use two layers of foam, high density on the bottom, medium density on top.

 

[Bruce/CT]

SKINNED KNUCKLES had an article on How to Redo Seat Springs some years ago. I'll look for the article but it probably won't be quick as they do not have any index. I'll copy and mail it to you. Send me a PM with your snail mail address.
Bruce/CT

 

[JeffG]

When I restored the 41, there were no rotted or broken springs, so went the route of making the burlap 'socks'. High and lengthy labor and you wonder how many people they had doing this work in the factory.

When I did the 49 seats, I had numerous bagged springs in the back seat rotted and broken from all the field mice pee, etc. A significant part of the seat frame containing the tack strip was also rotted and needed rebuild. I went to a local fabric/upholstery place that had big pieces of various density and thickness foam and had some pieces cut that were a little over size (not in height). From there I positioned on the seat frame, marked where I needed to cut then used an electric turkey carving knife to fish the curves around the edge of the seat. I then took 3M spray adhesive and glued burlap to the foam so it would get turn, etc while in contact with any adjacent springs, seat wire, etc. I was then able to finish the covering, etc. If you need to piece any foam together, the spray adhesive works great.

When I compare the feel between the 41 with all springs and 49 front seat with all foam, the foam isn't as 'bouncy' as the spings and provides a little more support. The back seat of the 49 had some naked springs in the frame that were okay and not in burlap, but with a 3 row channel of bagged springs. This channel was also fitted with burlap covered foam. The feel of the back seat with part spring and part foam? I can't tell the difference. The foam doesn't have that springy sound when you move your tail around on the seat. Here's a shot of the back seat.

If you click on my avatar, there's a 49 Ford Restoration album that has several pictures.

 

[PeteVS]

Here's the Skinned Knuckles article that Bruce provided to me.

 

[41 Fords ohio]

Jeff G, did you use the same type of foam on the 41 as you did on the 49? I've always had someone else do my seats for me. Now that I'm retired I want to try it myself. I have a 41 Ford barn find that I want to redo the seats on. This is what I'm starting with. Kinda rough but I've had worse. Thanks Ed Real nice work on the 49 by the way.