Stromberg float pin leaking gas

My 34 Ford

My 34 Ford

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The Stromberg 48 carb I am putting on my 34 leaks gas from the float pin. I used a Stromberg kit from Mac'c that had everything in it when I cleaned this carb up. Is there a sealer that should have been used on this? There was no sealer when I took it apart and notahing was included or mentioned in the kit about having to seal this pin.. This carb was never on the car so I don't know if it leaked in the past. I think the Stromberg 48 the right one for my 34 so I wanted to replace the 94 that was on the car. This Stromberg 48 now seeps enough gas to be a concern and I am afraid to drive it. What should I do to fix this. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
 
First of all you have to clean and must be dry the pin hole and the threaded end of the pin and put a drop of "LOCKTITE #222 on the pin threads and reinsert and let dry over nite and you will be good to go. Hope you didn't use the rubber tip inlet needle they give you.Did you remove and clean out the emultion tubes when you did it.Good luck with your China made kit. Mostly garbage in them. ken ct.You could have bought an American made kit for $50 and got a original steel needle and top quality gaskets,including a special double thick top gasket i have made for me.If you didn't remove the tubes you did a what i call a spit and polish rebuild on it.Plus NO tech help from them. ken ct. The DIYS jobs usually dont work out. ken ct. Did you test the float for leaks and level could be to high. Use a competent rebuilder nxt time.
 
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I'm pretty sure the correct carb for your car is a Stromberg
40. 48's I think came out for model year 1935. For point judging be
sure any evidence of the number 48 is removed....usually in raised
digits on the LH side of the air horn and bowl. Outwardly they both
look a whole lot alike. Internally the 48 has better off idle passages
but it's a stretch that you'd ever notice......in my opinion.
To set the float properly....more critical than you might think....
start the car up and be sure it is warm....then remove the air horn
CAREFULLY and measure from the top of the bowl to the fuel level in the
bowl.....it should measure 15/32 plus or minus a skosch.
If you are in agreement with my model 40 carb vs model 48
statement and just need one more than life itself I'm sure Uncle Max,
Ken ct and/or Charlie ny has a bunch of them.
Kens comment regarding the emulsion tubes is one I heartily
agree with. Another little fun item that can cause fits is a leaky power
valve....just because it's new it don't mean it's good.
These are SIMPLE carbs but overlook a seemingly obscure
item and.......well you know.
Charlie ny
 
Hi Ted thanks for the reply. The kit I used was the $45 Stromberg kit made in England by the Stromberg co that makes the parts now for these carb. I did not get any kind of a gasket for the float pin. The carb was completly taken apart and soaked in carb cleaner overnight so its possible if there was a gasket on this pin the cleaner ate it.
 
My 34 Ford said:
Hi Ted thanks for the reply. The kit I used was the $45 Stromberg kit made in England by the Stromberg co that makes the parts now for these carb. I did not get any kind of a gasket for the float pin. The carb was completly taken apart and soaked in carb cleaner overnight so its possible if there was a gasket on this pin the cleaner ate it.
Click to expand...
There are no gaskets on the floatpin... Use a dab of Hylomar on the threads of the pin.
 
I agree Max the english kits are good and no gasket on pin. [whats hylomar?] Like locktite's been working for me. ken ct. #222 lite purple color
 
Ken, in comparing the tech data sheets, your # 222 should work just fine, but is intended primarily as a threadlock, while the Permatex Hylomar looks to be intended as a non hardening fuel/oil resistant sealant. Both should work for the purpose.
 
Hylomar was developed for the Royal Air Force by Rolls Royce, during WWII as a sealant for problem leaking Spitfire aircraft engines.
You might say it helped win the war...
Good enough for these old carburetors, I think. :)
 
I just fitted a kit like yours and had the leaking problem and it was due to me not tightening up the needle seat onto the washer .Ken you are the expert on these but I don't see any taper on these ?? We are talking about the same thing , Needle Float valve .?? He could substitute a fiber washer .
 
The float inlet needle and seat does use a fiber washer. I thought he was talking about the float hinge pin with threads on the end of it is a tapered fit [no gasket].Ive been using the 222 on them for over 10 yrs and never a leak. ken ct.
 
Hi Ken, I am talking about the float hinge pin that screws in from the outside of the carb part nr 9558 in the big green book. I did not look real close at this pin when I put the unit back together so I missed the taper on the threads but I like your suggestion of Loctite 222. I will get some tomorrow. I should add that the Stromberg carb kit came with a with a Grose Jet needle setup and I did take out the tubes to clean them. They were plugged up. I have a question for you. Someone said that the right carb for a 34 is the Stromberg model 40. Is this right? What is the difference betwen a 40 and a 48 carb? everything I have looked at says that the 48 carb was first used on the 34 cars. Which one is right. I will never show this car but I would like to have the correct carb. The 48 runs great on this car, better than the 94 I had on it, only problem is this leaking problem. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
 
They dont leak if you do them up right. Did you file or face off the gasket surfaces especially the top cover?? Use the locktite on the float screw [just a small drop]/ The model 40 for the 34 only has no small #48 on the drivers side of the top and or no #48 just below it on the middle section.These are raised small #'s about 1/8 " high which can be filed off if you do it before glass beading and you would never know they were there. The model #48 which have the #'s on them were used on the 35 to early 36 yrs. The carbs are identicle except for the #'s on them. 35-36 have the #'s 34's do not. OMO. ken ct. hope its clear as mud. lol. I have special made double thick and a slightly softer material top cover gaskets if you need one. These seal the top real well. ken ct.I also set float at 3/8" at the opposite end of float on the flat part NOT on the HUMP.Works for me!!
 
My 34 has a model 48 carb on it, I was under the impression that was the first year it was used, correct me if I'm wrong.
Gary.
 
Hi Ken, Thanks for the information. I looked at my carb and it has a small, (3/32 high) nr. 48 stamped on the front driverside of the air horn close to the mounting flange. It also has on the driver side of the main body a 1/4 inch circle with 1 1/32 cast in the circle. This is partly hidden by the choke linkage . These two things made me conclude that this is a 48 carb. I have had this car about 30 years but it is only the last 10 years that I have done any serious work on it. The 48 carb was a flea market find from about 15 years ago and was so full of dirt I passed on using it when I had the engine rebuilt. Now that the car is 99.9% done I thought the correct carb would be the way to go. Thanks for the offer of the extra thick top gasket. I would like to have one. How do I get the money to you? The top of my carb is flat, but your gasket makes so much sense. I will change to your float setting when I have your gasket. Best regards Dennis
 
See your PM's ken ct. The 1 1/32 is behind the choke linkage is on the pass side not drivers side. Going to the Doc's. be back later.
 
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