Rusting at Tudor sedan belt rail

[beast_3]

I recently discovered that I'm getting rust on the rear side panels of my '30 Tudor where the upper panel overlaps the lower panel. The panel overlaps by about 1/16" or so and the rust is on the lower panel and goes up under the upper, close to the door opening.

It's too tight to get sandpaper in there as it is, but I was thinking if I un-nailed the upper panel from the door frame wood post, I might be able to move it away enough to sand out and treat the rusted area.

Anyone had any experience treating rust here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Bob East

 

[Vanspeed]

The beltline isn't like a T is it? I had a 26 T and it had a reinforcement inside the beltline and was folded over it. I had a hell of a time with it. I never did like my final results but I had rust out in spots. Is your rust just on the lower panel and not in the beltline itself? If so, I think you have a good chance at seperating the panels and remove the rust.

 

[beast_3]

I don't believe its rolled over, but I'll have to remove the interior panel and the window to make sure.

I've read on one of the Model A info sites of a rust remover that's supposed to be good, any idea what it's called? I guess I'll have to do a search on the threads for rust remover or something like that.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Can you post a picture showing exactly what you are describing??

I have uploaded several random (--VERY random!!) pictures that I happened to have available to show that the "upper" and "lower" panels are made together stamped as one piece. I probabnly have more detailed ones but I would need to go searching through my files.

The only place the panels are separated is in between the rear panel and both quarter panels. The only way to truly combat rust in those areas is to disassemble the panels and media blast. Then we spray epoxy primer prior to reassembly so there will not be bare exposed metal.

.

 

[gunmetal blue]

Looks very nice, thank for the pics.

 

[Gus]

A rust 'converter paint' is useful in this case I think. If you can't get the area sandblasted, you can clean it up with a scraper/sandpaper as best you can then brush on the converter with a small brush. It chemically reacts with the rust and converts it to an inert hard primer. You can then prime/paint over it. Mask out the area before you start and it shouldn't be too visible.Your seam will be spot welded together. Good luck.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

A rust 'converter paint' is useful in this case I think. If you can't get the area sandblasted, you can clean it up with a scraper/sandpaper as best you can then brush on the converter with a small brush. It chemically reacts with the rust and converts it to an inert hard primer. You can then prime/paint over it. Mask out the area before you start and it shouldn't be too visible.Your seam will be spot welded together. Good luck.

Which seam is spot welded??

.

 

[Randy in ca]

Not sure about the '30's, but on the 28-29's I've seen, the rear quarter panel is 2 piece, with the upper panel overlapping the lower on the outside and I believe the flanges on the inside were spot welded together. Not sure, but I think on some of the earlier bodies the panels were even bolted together.

 

[beast_3]

Brent,
I examined the area a bit closer and it appears the 2 panels having mating flanges that are bolted together on the inside. I thought there was more separation but that only occurs right next to the door post for about 1 or 2".
It seems I'll have to remove the upholstery panel then the window mechanism panel and glass before I can get in there to unbolt the panels for blasting.
I've done some limited sand and glass bead blasting in a cabinet of small parts. What is needed to blast with soda or plastic?
Is this type gun of any use?