Help me identify this transmission
- Thread starter imnezrider
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imnezrider
Member
Sorry, wasn't clear. Yes, it's a 3 speed mounted to a '50 model flathead.
imnezrider
Member
I really wish I could and I will try it again, but I just can't get the camera up high enough because of the floor.
imnezrider
Member
This is about the best I can do.
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flathead4rd
Well-known member
The only way to tell if it has Zephyr gears is to open it up and count the teeth on the main drive and cluster gear.
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
You can also determine what gear set you have by determining what your low gear ratio is.
This can be done with the trans out of the car by putting the trans in low gear and counting the input shaft revolutions for one revolution of the out put shaft.
Or in the car if you have a working speedo and tach by driving the car at a set speed, say 25 MPH, in low gear and noting the engine RPM and then driving at the same set speed in high gear and noting the engine RPM. This relationship will give you the ratio of the low gear.
Low gear ratio will be different for the different gear sets. Off hand, I do not know what the ratios are but I can calculate them for you if you can find out what your Low Gear ratio is. I am also sure these ratios are published someplace.
Just a thought.
Chris
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Real Zephyr gears won't fit, but the aftermarket supplied reworked sets to fit Fords up to about 1954. On a '49-50 this would entail an input gear cut down and resplined at its shaft to fit the small bearing and small spline clutch.
Only way to tell would be to check out ratio in first:
I think your year Ford would have 28 teeth stock, 2.82 first, 3.11 if they were 29...
Z-26 would be 2.327, 25 2.12. The differences are big enough to spot with a crude spinnit-by-hand checkup. Put it in first on a jackstand, put paint spot on crank pulley and U-joint, swing over engine with 7/8" (I think) socket on crank nut.
Turn engine over an exact three times and see if U-joint is less than three, way less, or waaaay less! Be precise!
Only way to tell would be to check out ratio in first:
I think your year Ford would have 28 teeth stock, 2.82 first, 3.11 if they were 29...
Z-26 would be 2.327, 25 2.12. The differences are big enough to spot with a crude spinnit-by-hand checkup. Put it in first on a jackstand, put paint spot on crank pulley and U-joint, swing over engine with 7/8" (I think) socket on crank nut.
Turn engine over an exact three times and see if U-joint is less than three, way less, or waaaay less! Be precise!
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
The numbers above copied from an authentic circa 1954 Iskenderian "Dream Wheel" calculator, so should be considered entirely infallible!
imnezrider
Member
Thanks Bruce...actually, I should have expanded on my original question. The car has an Autometer electronic speedo installed, but not hooked up in any way. I really want to get it operational and am at a loss as to how to do it. The only thing I have found is this...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10
Do you know how well it might work?
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Scary stuff! You have a normal '50 Ford trans...why not buy a cable and an olde Ford speedo that spins well by hand? Most will work and show a reasonable relationship with reality. The Police will be glad to inform you if speed is wrong...that's what your taxes are for. Then the electric thing can be adjusted by getting it perfectly flat with a hammer and anvil.
imnezrider
Member
Wow! Why don't you say what's on your mind? ;-) I was trying to save the one that's in it, but I realize the mechanical types worked perfectly over the years...at least in my '40 and '50 models in high school (1950-1954). I remember what the '50 models looked like, but do you happen to know what diameter they are?
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
I think they are quite large with the small gauges around the periphery of the speedo...any of the round earlier ones would be a lot easier to transplant most ways. I think an early type '30-48 cable should go on both ends if you use an early one. If you can spin the input by hand and get a 5-10MPH blip, IMHO it is pretty likely to work. Can post my lube instructions...
imnezrider
Member
Here is a pic of one. Reason I asked about the diameter is because I have a 5" hole in my dash. Does this look like the cable I would need?
http://macsautoparts.com/product.asp?camid=F50&pn=JS0R3CHL1096918&bhcd2=1277321820
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