Speedway one piece front crank seal?

B

BobM

Senior Member
Anybody use Speedway's one piece front crank seal with good results? Before I completely close the engine up am having second thoughts about this seal; have used the VEO one piece on my '36 with good results. Can't remember why I got the Speedway version.
 
If the Speedway item is the one that's made of rubber, then that's the one to use. I've had good luck with them and find they conform better than the item with the aluminum shell. JMO
Jim
 
Kahuna said:
If the Speedway item is the one that's made of rubber, then that's the one to use. I've had good luck with them and find they conform better than the item with the aluminum shell. JMO
Jim
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Thanks Jim, it is the one piece all rubber one; I'll close it up and move on. Bob
 
The one I used needed more silicone than I was comfortable with to hold it in the top cover, but it sealed very well. Never leaked a drop out the front, but I never parked it facing down hill either.
 
Why fix it if it ain't broke? Rope seals are old tech but they work. I'm old but my wife isn't replacing me yet!
 
Kahuna said:
If the Speedway item is the one that's made of rubber, then that's the one to use. I've had good luck with them and find they conform better than the item with the aluminum shell. JMO
Jim
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My experience with the rubber-outside seal in my 8BA was one of uneven fit in the timing cover and oil pan grooves. Initially, it was too tight in the timing cover and didn't go all the way into it. However, it fit the oil pan groove just fine.

The result was the seal sat too low. This made the timing cover push it down on the crankshaft, causing the lip of the seal to open up beneath the shaft... translating into a giant leak.

The cure was to "shave" the outside of the seal until it was able to go all the way into the timing cover. Since the seal could then float, it was also able to center itself on the shaft providing the correct seal all around it.

A generous amount of RTV was used during installation for good measure. After all the bolts were torqued, the RTV eventually cured, and the seal was secured in the ideal position.

Haven't seen a leak since assembling the engine six years ago.
 
I use the rope. Conforms well, has stood the test of time, doesn't leak. I never heard anyone say "them flatheads are great except for that leaky front seal". I think these new seals were enginered as something to sell, not really to solve a questionable "problem". Just cause it's old doesn't mean it won't work. Just one old guys' opinion.
 
Make sure the wear sleeve on the 8BA crank or the seal surface on the 59ab does not have a big groove worn in it. The seal work fine. Walt
 
walt as i understand the i piece front seal on a 8ba should have the smooth spacer behind the crank pulley trev:)
 
52merc said:
walt as i understand the i piece front seal on a 8ba should have the smooth spacer behind the crank pulley trev:)
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TREV --- Many guys have reported using the stock spacer with the spiral groove and have had no leakage as a result. Seems to go against nature, but there you are
 
52merc said:
walt as i understand the i piece front seal on a 8ba should have the smooth spacer behind the crank pulley trev:)
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I've always used the original seal sleeve. I've seen them with quite a groove worn in them, I'd replace that with a good one. Job Lot has them. Walt
 
Daisy Mae

52merc said:
Richard, how are you? What's happening to Daisy Mae?
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Hi, Trev. I'll be brief here and e-mail you more later. Daisy Mae has evolved to the point where she is simply pure pleasure to drive. I just acquired a terrific 3.54 rear end that I'll use in place of the 4.10 when I go on road trips... although I'm already getting 21.3 mph with the 4.10! Going to be interesting to see the difference.

What are you up to?
 
52merc said:
walt as i understand the i piece front seal on a 8ba should have the smooth spacer behind the crank pulley trev:)
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Trev, I read that you must use a "smooth" spacer in one of my assembly books also. The book was written in collaboration with a Canadian machine shop that made custom smooth sleeves; I thought they were trying to sell me something as no one else mentioned it in their assembly books.
 
I have always used the OEM seals and have yet to have a problem. Like others have stated... "If it ain't broke, why fix it"?
 
BobM said:
Trev, I read that you must use a "smooth" spacer in one of my assembly books also. The book was written in collaboration with a Canadian machine shop that made custom smooth sleeves; I thought they were trying to sell me something as no one else mentioned it in their assembly books.
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They are trying to sell you something you don't need unless you have a badly worn sleeve.
 
Hi All; I tried welding up the oil pan breather with a pipe coupling, and ran a hose to a pcv valve. All leaks stopped as soon as the crankcase pressure went negative. On an old used engine. later Newc
 
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