Fumaze What's A Fumaze?

Bill O'Brien said:
... Question, wouldn't the breather keep the oil from getting out and still letting the crankcase breathe? Thus achieving the goal of preventing oil from getting everywhere??
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According to the original literature on the Fumaze, it was suppose to condense the mist/fumes and send it back down the filler tube as liquid oil. The lower part of the tube was still in the engine compartment, topside of the engine pan, so the air passing under it was more or less directed downward. Mine is still sitting on the bench, so I really can't speak from experience. But anything is going to be better than having to clean up the engine of all the oil mist that came out of the original cap.
 
I drove the car today for about 8 miles and when I came back I inspected the engine compartment and found the surfaces that always showed the effects of the blow by were not coated. You know I don't know what was more fun, the hunt or the restoration. It most definitely works. I also as intrigued by the PCV valve mod that someone posted as well.
 
Very nice repos were available several years ago. I put them on my Model As that had a blowby problem. Since then I've learned how to seat the rings quickly on a rebuilt engine to avoid blowby.
 
Rings seated or not, all engines have a certain amount of blowby and need a crankcase breather, model A's don't have one. Modern cars use a pvc valve. If one doesn't mind having to open the GAV more than normal and richening the mix plus reburning crankcase fumes and reducing pep and power and blackening the spark plugs with soot, drill a hole in the valve cover and install a pvc valve. Many have gone the pvc route, like it and don't notice the difference. I personally prefer the Fumaze or road tube over the pvc setup. I use detergent oil and don't notice any fumes on any of my model A's except my rusty june 29 tudor that needs an overhaul. In many or most cases a worn smoking engine will out run a tight rebuild engine.
 
Another way to keep the engine compartment clean of blow-by: get a copper scowering pad, cut it in half, install it the oil tube, the top louvers will stop it from going down too far, then use the standard breather cap. The oil fumes collect on the pad and the cap even stays clean.

Ron

I have a Fumaze on my 29 Roadster and I still use the copper scowering pad.
 
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This thread will NO DOUBT help drive the price. It will be interesting to watch. I've seen them go for nearly $200.00 . It would be good if Smith and Jones would sell the repros again. Now only the determined or lucky get to have one . Glad I got lucky!!!!!
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Rings seated or not, all engines have a certain amount of blowby and need a crankcase breather, model A's don't have one. Modern cars use a pvc valve. If one doesn't mind having to open the GAV more than normal and richening the mix plus reburning crankcase fumes and reducing pep and power and blackening the spark plugs with soot, drill a hole in the valve cover and install a pvc valve. Many have gone the pvc route, like it and don't notice the difference. I personally prefer the Fumaze or road tube over the pvc setup. I use detergent oil and don't notice any fumes on any of my model A's except my rusty june 29 tudor that needs an overhaul. In many or most cases a worn smoking engine will out run a tight rebuild engine.
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Wow, I learned something today! I always thought a "pvc valve" was used in the plumbing of a house or building, --and "pcv" (positive crankcase ventilation) was used on an internal combustion engine. :o Maybe one day I will get to be a real Model A mechanic and learn all these things!! ;) Especially that one about a worn, smoking engine out running a rebuilt engine!! :rolleyes:

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I kinda doubt it! You do have a lot of people fooled anyway. Cheap shot. I know that it is PCV, just a typo. Depending on modifications an engine with more clearance will out run a tight engine, If you don't know this, that is a good examply of what I speak of above. Unlike you I have nothing to prove to anyone. I have model A's and I am my own mechanic. I speak common sense, I'm not trying to sell anything. I post here for the fun of it.
 
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If someone wants to give me $200.oo for my fumaze I will take it off my Roadster. It seems like all Model "A" parts just keep going up; sure was nice in the early 60's when you could go to a swap meet and pick up NOS parts: $5.oo for a new 7 tooth sector, $3.oo for a U-Joint, etc. . These days are gone forever !!!!!!

Ron
 
Purdy Swoft said:
I kinda doubt it! You do have a lot of people fooled anyway. Cheap shot. I know that it is PCV, just a typo. Depending on modifications an engine with more clearance will out run a tight engine, If you don't know this, that is a good examply of what I speak of above. Unlike you I have nothing to prove to anyone. I have model A's and I am my own mechanic. I speak common sense, I'm not trying to sell anything. I post here for the fun of it.
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I believe the "cheap shot" came from someone else as evidenced here! Nonetheless, again I will step back and yield to your vast Model A experience and advice. Have a great day Sir!


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I am trying to remember who said that rust was appreciating faster than gold at Hershey.

Ron in Quincy said:
If someone wants to give me $200.oo for my fumaze I will take it off my Roadster. It seems like all Model "A" parts just keep going up; sure was nice in the early 60's when you could go to a swap meet and pick up NOS parts: $5.oo for a new 7 tooth sector, $3.oo for a U-Joint, etc. . These days are gone forever !!!!!!

Ron
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Ron in Quincy said:
If someone wants to give me $200.oo for my fumaze I will take it off my Roadster. It seems like all Model "A" parts just keep going up; sure was nice in the early 60's when you could go to a swap meet and pick up NOS parts: $5.oo for a new 7 tooth sector, $3.oo for a U-Joint, etc. . These days are gone forever !!!!!!

Ron
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I like mine so well because of rairity and function, I don't think that I would take two hundred for mine. Still wish that I could find a top for the other one that I have !
 
You know the fact that it wasn't on any other car I had seen made it desirable for me. The bonus is that it works great. I did find another here in OKC but it is the later reproduction unit that does not have the seamed downtube.
 
After reading your post, I had to go out and check mine. One has the seamed down tube and the other one doesn't. I don't see any other difference. I guess that I am still lucky. The one on my roadster has the seamed tube and the one that is missing the cap doesn't. Thanks for the info, I didn't know the difference before. They should still function the same and most would never know the difference.
 
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