Over heating and I dont know why.

i do remember that on this new gear the dimple is between teeth and so is the mark on the crank so the are off by a small fraction either way, so i couldve possible lined it up the wrong way so ill try doing lining it up again.
 
If the car was running good before you worked on it, it's obvious you did something wrong.
The marks on the gears are for valve timing (I'm sure you know that).
Did by any chance, you remove the lower hoses ?
Did you check for circulation of the coolant in the radiator?
I have seen the lower hoses peal back on the inside and collapse under suction/acceleration. I wish I had taken a picture of one. Easiest way to check your valve timing is with a vacuum gauge.(steady and very low,between 10-15")
anyway just a thought.
 
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yeah i do know that but no i still have to check the hose and take the timing plate off to make sure they are lined up. i will check the lower hose but it looked good when i put it back on.

So i should make sure my gears are lined up like that in the photo. I swear my crank gear didnt a dimple on it like that one, so i lined up the cam dimple with the little quare notch on the pulley. i guess i will have to double check and clean the surface of the gear off to make sure its not filled with crud which maybe why i didnt see it.

whats the easiest way to check for circulation?
 
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whats the easiest way to check for circulation?[/QUOTE]


Look in the radiator when it's running at Fast Idle.
 
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pulled it apart today and lined the gear back up, i think it might have been off a couple of teeth. It is definitely difficult to see the point on the crank gear, it was filled in with some crud and theres a flange that covers it so you cant see it straight on. I think i got it but will know for sure tomorrow when i get a new timing cover gasket and the cam nut tool to tighten it down again.

Thanks for all the info and help, hopefully it is fixed for atleast a while.
 
jaguar6165 said:
What about oil flow? i cleaned the pan and took the valve cover off and cleaned it all out then put it all back together. Maybe the oil isnt circulating enough? Could that be a problem? Or maybe i over tightened the bolt for the oil pump? Could that also be a problem?
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There is no bolt for the oil pump, unless you mean the one that was used to hold the oil pump in place during the oil pan removal, then replaced with the 1/8" pipe plug with a screwdriver slot.

The FORD script on the steel crank gear should line up with the "0" on the fiber cam gear. If you go by the keyway slot to line up the gears, be careful as some books show it in the wrong position. There was a good thread about this a few weeks ago.

When you checked the spark timing after installing the new cam gear, did you have to move it? You shouldn't have had to move it, and if you did move it more than a degree or two, I'd say that's an indication the cam gear is a tooth off.
 
Re the timing marks, look close and the dimple on the cam gear should be on a tooth, and the dimple on the crank gear between teeth (or visa versa, I forget.) The dimpled tooth fits between the two teeth on each side of the other dimple.
 
i believe i got it all together. The gears are now lined up correctly and the car has been retimed. I drove it before retiming it and it started run run a little hot. i drove it a little after retiming it and it might still run a little on the high side around 190 degrees. im going to drive it a little more and see what it runs at.
 
jaguar6165 said:
i believe i got it all together. The gears are now lined up correctly and the car has been retimed. I drove it before retiming it and it started run run a little hot. i drove it a little after retiming it and it might still run a little on the high side around 190 degrees. im going to drive it a little more and see what it runs at.
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At least now you can rest your mind about timing marks. If you are still having a problem now it's elsewhere.
I had the same problem. I changed the cam gear while the engine was in the car, because of the clearance and using a mirror I was in doubt. I used a vacuum gauge to verify the valve timing.The car was running above normal temperatures. Turned out I had a bad radiator besides a worn gear(knocking like an SOB).
 
Yeah im starting to think it might be the radiator, im having it flow checked this afternoon and we'll see what happens. I have seen better radiators but its not trash either so im having it checked out. Maybe ill get somewhere soon.
 
Unfortunately both i first did it in the garage and thought maybe because there was no air flow but when i got it on the road it still gets up there. On my way to having the radiator checked, about a 4 mile drive it hit about 200.
 
Got it back from the Radiator shop this afternoon and sure enough the radiator is blocked up. According to the shop he said when i took it off to replace the timing gear it sat and everything that was wet and flowing through it most likely dried and formed a blockage in the radiator. Unfortunately the radiator was old enough and worn enough that it wasnt worth it to flush and patch so a new one is on the way.
 
Got my Radiator in the shop right now ,having a 4 tube put in ,tired of messing around with it, it heated up quickly ,puked and steamed ,even after boiling it out,hope this does the trick. maybe I can install ac in the car with the Big Radiator.The weather here gets plenty hot in the summer .
 
jaguar6165 said:
Got it back from the Radiator shop this afternoon and sure enough the radiator is blocked up. According to the shop he said when i took it off to replace the timing gear it sat and everything that was wet and flowing through it most likely dried and formed a blockage in the radiator. Unfortunately the radiator was old enough and worn enough that it wasnt worth it to flush and patch so a new one is on the way.
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Sorry to hear that it's the radiator, a big expense. I went through it too .
But I'll say this, you're going to be very pleased when the new one is installed. I know I was. I could drive in any temperature without a problem.
I did have to put a thermostat in (160*) because I felt the engine was running too cool.
Good Luck.
 
kp said:
Got my Radiator in the shop right now ,having a 4 tube put in ,tired of messing around with it, it heated up quickly ,puked and steamed ,even after boiling it out,hope this does the trick. maybe I can install ac in the car with the Big Radiator.The weather here gets plenty hot in the summer .
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It might be a good idea to put an old nylon in the top hose to catch any junk from the engine before it can reach the new radiator. After a month remove it and install a thermostat.

I would also use antifreeze for good pump lubrication and to keep the rust away, as well as keep the block from freezing.
 
Mitch//pa said:
were you able to feel cool spots in it at all
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It did seem to be cooler toward the bottom of the radiator but it was a little hard to tell. I touch the top for about 2 seconds before it burned but i could touch the sides toward the bottom for a while before it felt to hot.
 
another idea if you have junk in your block is to flush it out by hooking a long pipe to the upper hose and let it hang off the front. keep feeding water into the rad with it running and the junk will flush out the pipe. keep the rpm up a little while its flushing
 
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