Front and rear springs

PABob

Junior Member
I want to replace the springs on my 40 tudor and was wandering who's to use Posies or others, or should I just take mine apart and put in some liners and remove a couple of leafs. Thanks
 
I want to replace the springs on my 40 tudor and was wandering who's to use Posies or others, or should I just take mine apart and put in some liners and remove a couple of leafs. Thanks

I used Posie's front reversed eye 39 in. spring #2040 on my 40 coupe and it worked fine.
I did not change the OEM rear spring.
 
I used the Posies on my '36 3w, they're a fine spring. I took out the top two leaves on the rear to adjust height because it actually raised the car at first since the original was probably tired.

There are other alternatives if saving a buck or two is on your agenda. Chassis Engineering Inc. sells just the reverse eye main leaf. They also sell the "plastic" buttons individually. Theirs have a retainer button on the backside, so you just drill a hole in the leaves you want to apply them to.

You can also reverse your own original main leaf if you have a good shop press. It takes a while, but hey, you gotta earn your way.

Another thing you can do for a bit more drop in the back is 46-8 shackles, they're a little longer than the earlier ones. I'm referring to the P&J replacement ones.
 
Looks like I'll try Posies. Thanks for the advice, I love this site it has helped me out a lot.
 
I used Posies in the front of my 39 Fordor and they had a tendency to flatten out went back to the orginals.
 
I want to replace the springs on my 40 tudor and was wandering who's to use Posies or others, or should I just take mine apart and put in some liners and remove a couple of leafs. Thanks

It is quite easy to do your own spring..
The only tool required is a 4 or 7 inch body grinder.
Here's a blurb I put on the HAMB a few days ago for a guy that had almost the same question as you do.

"First, inspect the top of all the leaves for grooving.
If grooved, grind and taper the tops of all the leaves for the last 3 inches.
The number of leaves you use will depend on the final weight of the car
and the "ride" you want. On a typical model A rod it is possible to get a
100 lb. per inch spring rate. Have the shocks disconnected when checking spring rates.
I use 1/16 UHMW plastic between the leaves.This is the same as Teflon but
about 1/3 the price.
After determining the final configuration of the spring I wrap it with black electrical tape
from the eyes to the U bolts. This keeps dirt out.
If you use a reversed eye main leaf, be sure the second leaf is short enough that there
is no way it can bottom on the eye when at full compression.
Sometimes the original spring clips will not reach over the spring after the UHMW is added.
It is a simple matter to fabricate ones that will.
The inside top of the cross member where the spring seats, usually has a radius.
BE SURE the top leaf of the spring has a radius to match. A sharp corner on the spring
leaf can cause a cracked cross member.
I use moly filled Delrin shackle bushings (home made) because they have almost no friction and they never wear out."
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