What did i do wrong now?

E

eeyore

Senior Member
I think i have a 1929 roadster, i am fitting the splash aprons and wood blocks on the frame, the front out board brace on the frame with the two holes appears to be to far to the rear to use both bolt holes. Here is a picture showing the problem, i sure could use some advise, thanks dale
 

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I have my body ready to drop on my 29 roadster. Does this help?

Art you sure you have the apron positioned correctly? The front bolt hole in the apron should be approximately 29 inches from the front of the frame horn.

29road2.jpg
 
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The wood goes in the cowl, there is a space between metal in the cowl for the wood blocks. The splash apron sets on the top of the frame. Be sure to install a thin rubber seal between the cowl and the splash apron otherwise the cowl will set too low and you will have a problem with hood alienment.

Ron
 
Thanks for the quick response, but the fender and running boards and splash aprons seem to fit and the bolt holes line up along the rest of the frame, but the forward bracket will only match up with the front of the two holes in it?
 
I WILL TRY TOMORROW, THE SPACING ON THE FRONT WOOD BLOCK, AND THE SPACING ON THE APRONS MATCH, BUT ONLY THE ONE HOLE IS WERE IT WILL MATCH UP WITH THE BRACKET:confused: I WILL GO AT IT AND SEE WHAT I CAN FIGURE OUT THANKS, DALE
 
eeyore said:
Thanks for the quick response, but the fender and running boards and splash aprons seem to fit and the bolt holes line up along the rest of the frame, but the forward bracket will only match up with the front of the two holes in it?
Click to expand...

The two holes are to the back with the one hole to the front.
 
Your wood looks new... are you sure it was made correctly? Do you have the original wood to compare?
 
Ron in Quincy said:
The wood goes in the cowl, there is a space between metal in the cowl for the wood blocks. The splash apron sets on the top of the frame. Be sure to install a thin rubber seal between the cowl and the splash apron otherwise the cowl will set too low and you will have a problem with hood alienment.

Ron
Click to expand...

29road3.jpg
 
it looks like you have a 31 frame, the holes will be off by the same distance as the distance between the holes you can use it with one bolt down through the bracket and the other through the splash apron, the question is, what front cross member do you have?
 
I agree with John
heres two frames,the late 31 is on the top and the 30 (same location as the 29) is below
forward is to the right
tom
 

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I AM FINDING OUT THE HARD WAY THAT I GOT A 29 ROADSTER TITLE AND NOT MUCH ELSE FROM THAT YEAR:eek: THE ENGINE IS 1931 I KNEW THAT BUT NO NUMBERS ON THE FRAME, IT IS A SALVAGE TITLE FOR A 1929 ROADSTER USING THE 31 ENGINE NUMBER. I STARTED WITH A NEW SUBRAIL FOR A 29 AND AM NOW SEEING WHAT A PRODJECT I GOT. BUYER BEWARE I LEARNED THAT MUCH:mad: THANKS TO ALL FOR THE ANSWERS. DALE
 
While not "authentic", it will still work ok. That frame was made to better support the new slant windshield models. However by about April '31 Roadsters, Coupes, etc., were built with those frames. The rear bolt went through the front of the bracket and the front bolt went through the apron only which plugged the hole.

There is one other issue to address using that frame. The front cross member on frames beginning late '29 has lower radiator mounting pads. When used with '29 type bodies Ford compensated for this with longer mounting bolts and steel shims to compensate, along with the usual rubber pads.
 
:)thanks for both replies i will start to look at both things more closely and see whats going to be my next challange, again thanks dale
 
This is a great thread! I ran into the same conundrum on a '31 restoration, which came to me already disassembled. I knew the body and frame were original and came together, but when we tried to mount up the new body blocks, I was pulling my hair out because they didn't align! Being new to Model A's, I knew there must be an explanation. My son was ready to grab the drill and welder, but wisdom prevailed over youthful enthusiasm!
 
This is a great thread! I ran into the same conundrum on a '31 restoration, which came to me already disassembled. I knew the body and frame were original and came together, but when we tried to mount up the new body blocks, I was pulling my hair out because they didn't align! Being new to Model A's, I knew there must be an explanation. My son was ready to grab the drill and welder, but wisdom prevailed over youthful enthusiasm!
 
eeyore, thanks for bring that to attention.
seems every time i though i had it going , something odd happened.
i've got a '29 cowl and it's '29 frame. and the wood didn't fit in the cowl. wood's too thick.
turns out this body style. murray wood body didn't have a full length block.
just the front bolted through the block.
the rear in this style is intercepted by the wood floor .
your's looks like you might have the apron, block, and maybe body the same.
stated above, "made room for the slant windshield"
i was think you should have briggs cowl. but what do i know.
apples to apples.
sounds like you've got a swapped frame.
break out the board stretcher.
and does the cowl fit the frame the same as the block fits the frame ?
i'd use that block as a reference and cut a new one. or have a carpenter make one to fit the cowl. some couture to that block.
shouldn't you tread that block with something before installing ?
i varnished mine, then primed and painted it a few times.
wood absorbs moisture and inhibits rust to steel. seal it.
 
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