32 frame measurement pls

M

Mark from Australia

Senior Member
Guys I was wondering if some-one could take some measurements of their naked 32 frame???

I have a pair of original 32 frame rails I bought from a vendor here, and a copy of what I believe are original blueprints from Ford, but they are lacking in one area, which of course I need before they can start to go together. No suprises in this one - its going to be a hot rod.:o

What I'm after is some diagonal measurements between:
1). Front crossmember centre rivet and Centre crossmember centre rivet
2). Centre crossmember centre rivet and rear crossmember centre rivet
3). first running board bolt diagonal to the rear (last) running board bolt - left to right and right to left?

Thanks everyone

M-I-A
 
Hot rod. Ok, now this isn't the answer you're after but, will it be fendered or highboy?
Are you going to use all original crossmembers? Do you have these yet? Original body?

The reason I ask is because you can set the frame up using front and rear spreader bars and measurements from Wescott/s plans on their website. You could even make up a simple jig from this point and get your axle centrelines.
 
To answer your concerns Tony,
my chassis rails have a slight twist in them, caused by a previous owner welding up the body mounting holes on the top of the frame and the steering box hole.

By asking about the centre x-member holes and the front and rear crossmember holes, I can referrence how much the rails are twisted.

I figure these holes will be universal amongst 32 rails.

They are not present on the Wescott diagrams
 
Welding warpage can be a bear. Especially with a frame member that is not originally straight to any particular degree. Spreader bars front and rear will give you an idea of how much twist you have. Comparison of both rails against a straight edge can help. If you can find someone with a non-warped rail that would help too. Many frame makers have jigs made from original relatively un-warped frames. You would be surprized at how tweeked the new rails can be right out of the dies. Staight edges, levels, tape measures, and large flat & true surfaces are a frame builders best friends.
 
I was able to get a measurement of 46-3/4" (that's 1.8745m) from center rivet of front crossmember to center rivet of middle crossmember. There's too much stuff piled on the rear of my chassis to get to the rear crossmember. Also, going all the way to the rear crossmember involves going "over the hump" or kickup for the rear axle. I'll see if I can get more info tomorrow. Hope this helps.
 
The sides should be vertical, including where the swage is. Obviously if you put a vertical straight edge up to the swage area it won't contact all the way, but the top and bottom radii should be on the same vertical plane.

It's pain if they've welded up all the body mount holes, but they are figureoutable.
 
The body mount holes can be gotten from Wescott's site:
http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/FrameDiagram1932.pdf
Wescott DOESN'T show what Mark is looking for because they aren't selling original Ford frames, or telling people how to make their own. They just want people to know, no matter where they got their frames from, what they need to mount the bodies.
 
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mark the chassis rails are not the same side to side from the factory and the body mount holes as per wesott are correct and square but the holes are different distances from the out side if the rails ,belive me ive been through this ,one side has more curve than the other if you want to know more of what im saying let me know and i will explain the difference is minor but you may spend time trying to fix sum thing that isnt busted
 
x38 you obviously had a good look at a 32 chassis then you got any spare chassis bits i need sum k member front legs and sum phaeton centre pillars not much of this stuff down here in tasmania
 
OK Mark- I was just ready to leave the garage this afternoon when I looked at the '32 and remembered I was going to try to get you a rear crossmember dimension. I didn't get it from the front, BUT, from the back end of the top flange of the frame rail to the center of the REAR rivet in the rear crossmember I got 19-1/4". Shoots- I wrote that number down on a slip of paper and just went to pull it out of my pocket to confirm what I had just typed and the paper's not there. Oh well, I'm pretty sure it's 19-1/4". I check again tomorrow.

Yup! Found the scrap of paper- 19-1/4" is correct!
 
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tub1, interesting logic, but no I don't have any legs or centre pillars on the shelf!

Vern Tardel in Santa Rosa makes repro K members.
 
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