My New 1930 Sedan

looks like you got a nice solid car there no rust bucket. a little wipe down underneath and a can of rustoleum with a brush will look good. watch out for the tarantulas
 
Tim,

Be sure to completely lubricate the car BEFORE you drive it. Driving without lubricants will destroy parts. The rear end looks like it has been leaking slowly for several years and hasn't been checked for a long time. Take out the top plug and you should be able to touch the rear end fluid with your finger. Fill it until it runs out the top hole and then put the plug back. Same with the transmission. I am sure there will be several recommendations but lacking that just get 600 weight lube from one of the major suppliers. Look at the lubrication chart in the owner's manual. The ones most commonly missed are the two on the accelerator control shaft, the distributor shaft and some of the generators depending on what you have. Fill the shocks with the correct fluid from the vendors. If they are full they are usually weeping and yours look dry. With your wiring I would recommend installing a fuse. If you get the one that mounts to the top of the starter be sure the connections are tight as problems have been reported. Go slow. Look for original parts at swap meets and rebuild them or have them rebuilt. They will be better than most repros. Join a club. The car looks like you will have fun.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Good looking tudor Tim. Something you can drive and work on as you go. The Autolite heater can be unbolted and stored for now. You may consider cutting a new hole in line and mounting a heater door for cold weather. That heater works pretty good, I have one on my coupe.
 
Tim:

For safety reasons I would replace the rubber fuel line as soon as possible with an all metal one.
 
Barry B./ Ma. said:
Good looking tudor Tim. Something you can drive and work on as you go. The Autolite heater can be unbolted and stored for now. You may consider cutting a new hole in line and mounting a heater door for cold weather. That heater works pretty good, I have one on my coupe.
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Thank Barry, I'm not out to build a points car, just to learn, drive, and have fun.

Bob/AZ said:
Congratulations Tim, Fordbarn will be an invaluable resource. First place I go when I'm stumped.
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Thanks Bob...

Domino said:
Tim:

For safety reasons I would replace the rubber fuel line as soon as possible with an all metal one.
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Domino,
Yes, that is on my list. I see some poeple are running copper fuel lines. Is that a no-no?

I need to get fluids for the car this week. I understand I will need some 600W lube/oil, motor oil with zinc and a top quality grease. I see that people are using Bratton's 600W and Shell Rotella motor oil, are these quality products? Any suggestions on grease?

Thanks for all the support!!
Tim
 
Remove the two bolts holding the Autolite heater cover. Take off the cover. The Autolite heaters can make the distributor too hot and hard to get at the distributor holding screw on the side of the cylinder head.
 
I spent a day cleaning the car. Here are a couple before and after pictures. I found out when I went to transfer the title that the car is a 1931 not a 1930 as advertised.
Tim
 

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JunkOSC said:
I spent a day cleaning the car. Here are a couple before and after pictures. I found out when I went to transfer the title that the car is a 1931 not a 1930 as advertised.
Tim
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interesting looks like a 1930 dash and oval speedometer, radiator shell and fenders? did the dmv go by the frame number or engine number? hmmm
 
At some point before I bought the car the state issued a new AZ VIN #. When I went to the DMV it was a simple sign here, transfer completed. The car's running boards are welded to the aprons if thats any indication of year?
Thanks,
Tim
 
You are probably lucky that it didn't come back from DMV as a Chevrolet. I assume that what happened was they went by the number on the engine. Engines were frequently exchanged at which point the DMV was given the new number. All of the Model A engines basically interchanged. According to the judging standards the round speedometer was introduced in mid 1930 (ref page 6-2). You needed to replace the tank when you changed the instrument panel and this was not a common thing. The radiator shell is a 1930. The splash aprons above the running board are 1930 (1931's were one piece). I am sure you will find many other things on the car that identify it as a 1930 but I can't tell from the pictures. You are now faced with a decision. You are probably finished with the DMV if you just keep quite. If it was me I would examine the car carefully and confirm that it is indeed a 1930. Highlight a copy of the judging standards and then go back to the DMV and have it changed. They make take your word (supported by books) or they may make you lift the body to look at the original number on the frame (see http://www.jmodela.com/numbers.html). If it was me I would get it changed. It would be nice to have it right when you ell the car. As you work on the car it would be using the correct 1930 parts instead of 1931 parts although it would make any difference on a driver.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Thank you for the input/advice. The body one day will come off for a new paint job...I think at that time, I will get everything sorted out with the DMV. Very interesting... thanks again.
Tim
 
John the Model A Restorers Club of Arizona they are and grand bunch of guys and gals.I am a member and when I visit Chandler I have great time for sure. Contact Sammy Guthrie on 480 782-0266 he runs a parts and restoration shop. 15838 South Gilbert Rd Chandler AZ 85225 email SPG1931@aol.com.

John in sunny evening England
 
Quote
" Yes, that is on my list. I see some poeple are running copper fuel lines. Is that a no-no?"

Copper will work harden from the vibrations and eventually crack. Decent repro steel lines are available from most vendors.

Looks like a late '30 to me, but some States in those days dated the title on a car by the date of sale. If it were made in Nov or Dec 30 and sold in Jan/Feb 31,, it could be titled as a 31.
 
Join The Model A Restorers Club of Arizona a grand bunch of guys and gals .I am one of their foreign members and have a great time on my annual visit to Chandler.Contact Sammy Guthrie,he runs a parts and restoration shop.15838 South Gilbert Road Chandler AZ 85225 . Phone 480 782-0266 Tuesdays through Fridays.Email SPG1931@aol.com .You will be glad you did.

John in partly cloudy warm England
 
I don't know much (at least not yet!), but it is not the original 19" wheels on it... :)

I'll be keeping an eye on your thread, I might learn something from it! :D
 
Hi Tim,

For a local club I would recommend joining the Model A Restorers Club of Arizona. They have a lot of members close to your location in Chandler. Call Sammy Guthrie 480-782-6562, he is in charge of membership and also located in Chandler. It is a very active club.

Enjoy your "new" Model A.:)

Larry Gilbert
 
Tim, the top part of the heater will unbolt and can be removed. The remaining exhaust manifold can either be left on as is or replaced with an original. The manifold that you will see after removing the top will have some fins on it.

I take the top off mine during the summer and put it back on in the winter if I am up north.

Larry Gilbert
 
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