fuel sending unit bob drake

lenmissy said:
New sending unit from bob drake does not work .With a full tank it only shows half full how can i fix it.
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Just call Bob. Like his ill fitting water pumps, I am certain you are the first guy to experience this trouble :D
 
I didn't install mine yet,and glad that I checked it first with a multi-meter,against the Henry sender.The resistance readings of the Drake sender are not the same as the 47 merc sender.It might work if we could find an aftermarket gage,that is compatible.The reverse engineering for these repop parts,must be done in china also.
 
try this remove the sending unit. measure the distance from top of tank to bottom. now on a pice of carboard draw a box with the same measurments. place sender on top line connect a wire to the wire that goes to the sender. then connect a wire from the sender housing to ground .now with key on move the sender float see where it lands .when it reads full if its near or tuching the top line it,s ok. if it,s 3/4 or half up adj the arm till it,s at the top line now move float till it hits or close to bottom line .it should read empty if you can,t get these readings the sender is no made right i hope you can understand this.
 
I don't understand how you can measure resistance on an original Ford fuel sender. It uses a bimetalic strip and with a multimeter should read as near zero resistance when no voltage is applied. With voltage applied, the strip heats up and the points opens up, then the strip cools off and the points close again. Depending on the lever position, the dwell of its closure is more or less (more when the tank is full). The same is repeated at the gauge.

I don't have a Drake sender, but if it is made like the Ford sender, it can be adjusted. Remove the cap and you will see a knob which raises or lowers the tension on the bimetalic strip. I adjust mine so the gauge reads empty when the float is at the lower end and don't really care how far off it is when the tank is full. Those old Ford sensors (and the new 2010 fuel sensors) aren't that accurate in any event. And with age even the 80 year old NOS sensors have lost some elasticity.
 
Here's the sad story on the Drake sending unit. It does not work period.
The signal it sends to the dash gage is let's say...hmm Chinese...the dash
gage doesn't understand Chinese it only understand English. That's as
technical as I can get.
I did my usual flailing of arms and screaming at the Drake tech guy and
even though I had cut the arm to fit my tank ( per the instructions )
they fully refunded my $$$$$$$$$.
This sender is sold by lots of suppliers with and without the Drake logo
so beware.
As Kube says the orig response was...." really we've sold thousands "....
blah blah.
The big Canfield Ohio swap meet is this weekend and fuel tank senders
are on my 'to find' list......there will be some there.
Charlie ny
 
my gas gouge dose not work right, i get gas every 100 miles, i learned that the hard way. ran out of gas twice
 
I bought a gas tank from Drakes, but used a sending unit from Mac's. It is right on - full is full, and empty is empty. When I hit empty, I have about 20 miles to go before I run out of gas. Not sure who makes the ones for Mac's, but mine works great.
 
Although I am not sure who Dennis Carpenter's supplier is, the sender I bought from them for my 55 F100 works great.
 
I have a Drake sender in my 37 and it works fine. It didn't work at first, but I found a bad solder joint at the top post of the sender. After a re-solder job it worked fine.
 
Original senders don't change resistance like the drake sender --an ohmmeter won't test an original sender for it's accuracy -- just that the heater coil is good and that the contact points are making contact.
 
I used the millivolt scale on the multimeter,and that's how I got the different ranges of readings.Is there another way to compare these senders?I don't want to take everything apart,after finding that it doesn't work.Thanks Meant to say MILLIOHM scale
 
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