Over heating and I dont know why.

J

jaguar6165

Senior Member
I had to replace my timing gear and finally did so last week. I buttoned everything back up and all was well, or atleast i thought. I am having problems with the car running hot and overheating. Any suggestions. I checked and rechecked the timing, tightened the belt and adjusted the carb. Im thinking maybe i dislodged something in the radiator or something got in it to restict the flow. im going to take it apart tomorrow and bring it to a radiator shop to have them look at it. Any suggestion before i dive into it?
 
Posibly a dumb question, but do you have one of the crank timing gears that is mismarked? Had a discussion on them a couple of weeks ago. Rod
 
i dont think so but if you are getting at my gears not being lined up I thought the same thing so i pulled the plug over #1 cylinder and watched for the piston to be at tdc. and sure enough my timing was on. Actually just did that last night. After that i tightened the belt and installed a temp guage. I fired it up pulled my spark lever down, puller the throttle lever down about 1/3 to 1/2 way and it ran like that for 10 15 mins, maybe longer, and looked good. then all of a sudden the temp started climbing again and i had a little coolant coming out of the radiator cap. it got up to about 220 when i shut it down.
 
My money would be on
"Im thinking maybe i dislodged something in the radiator or something got in it to restict the flow."
Before pulling the radiator I would remove the upper radiator hose and the lower supply pipe and hoses to see if any foreign object is in there. You can also check to see if the radiator and block flow is OK.
 
This may be another dumb question, but does the car have a thermostat, and if so could it possibly be stuck or otherwise not working right?
 
Nope no thermostat. I thought the timing too but like i said i checked it and retimed it and even had my local model a shop retime it and adjust the carb. switched out the spark linkage as well because my rod was about 1/2 inch shorter than the ones he stocked so we tried that and still nothing, which is why im starting to lean towards problems with flow.
 
What about oil flow? i cleaned the pan and took the valve cover off and cleaned it all out then put it all back together. Maybe the oil isnt circulating enough? Could that be a problem? Or maybe i over tightened the bolt for the oil pump? Could that also be a problem?
 
It was to my knowledge never had any problems. I broke quite a few teeth off the timing gear but it was running just fine when that happened. Now not so much.
 
jaguar6165 said:
i dont think so but if you are getting at my gears not being lined up I thought the same thing so i pulled the plug over #1 cylinder and watched for the piston to be at tdc. and sure enough my timing was on. Actually just did that last night. After that i tightened the belt and installed a temp guage. I fired it up pulled my spark lever down, puller the throttle lever down about 1/3 to 1/2 way and it ran like that for 10 15 mins, maybe longer, and looked good. then all of a sudden the temp started climbing again and i had a little coolant coming out of the radiator cap. it got up to about 220 when i shut it down.
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I'm with Rowdy on this one. Just because the timing pin drops in the detent (spot-drill hole) when the piston is at TDC, or the spark is set to occur then, does not mean the cam timing is correct. It only means you lined up the marks on the gears. If the cam is marked on the wrong tooth, the pin will still drop at TDC and you can still set the dizzy to spark at TDC, but the cam / valve timing will definitely be off.

The only real way to check the cam timing itself (and the accuracy of the gears) is with a degree wheel, a positive piston travel stop, and a dial indicator on the lifters. Racers degree cams because new gears can be off a degree or two at the zero mark and run fine in a stock app. In lieu of all that, you need to compare the old and new gears, with the assumption that the old gear which ran OK was close enough to spec.

Hopefully you saved the old gear (or have another known good one). Scribe a line across the cam dowel holes and count how many teeth, including any fraction (1/8, 1/4, 1/2 tooth) down to the pin hole. Compare to the new gear.

Unless you were running water instead of antifreeze and what you drained was rusty looking, I would not think that much scale would be in there to suddenly plug things.
 
how high did you fill the radiator up the level should be about at the baffle. what kind of temp guage did you put in and is it accurate? you should be able to see the coolant flow by looking in the top of the radiator. are there any air bubbles or foaming in there? when the radiator is hot you should feel around the core to see if you have any cold spots indicating a restriction.
 
Wow i cant believe i didnt think of this. Thats true. The teeth were stripped so i would put money that i put the gear back on without checking to make sure i didnt turn the cam at all which im almost certain i did trying to get the nut off. I hate myself now because unfortunately i may have just created more work for myself. Im almost certain that is exactly what i did. Wow thats what i get for being unorganized and wanting to get it back together. I check it out. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
i will check for could spots around the radiator as well but im starting to think that the gear was just put on without checking to make sure the cam was in the right position.
 
MikeK said:
The only real way to check the cam timing itself (and the accuracy of the gears) is with a degree wheel, a positive piston travel stop, and a dial indicator on the lifters. Racers degree cams because new gears can be off a degree or two at the zero mark and run fine in a stock app. In lieu of all that, you need to compare the old and new gears, with the assumption that the old gear which ran OK was close enough to spec.
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Is there any at home way to check it, i dont have all the tools needed to do it that way. One that i could do in a day, such as tomorrow?
 
yeah i did that however i had to rotate the crank a little and i dont remember rotating the cam to match up so i screwed my self there.
 
jaguar6165 said:
Is there any at home way to check it, i dont have all the tools needed to do it that way. One that i could do in a day, such as tomorrow?
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I'd start by removing the timing cover and turning the engine to verify the gear was installed with the zero marks meeting. Then:

From the within-spec OLD gear if you still have it (or another known good one): Scribe a line across the center of the cam dowel holes to the teeth on the right and count how many teeth, including any fraction (1/8, 1/4, 1/2 tooth) down to the drilled pin hole. Compare to the new gear. That won't guarantee a zeroed cam, but will tell you if the new one is definitely off. Unfortunately you have to take off the cam gear nut again !! to do this. :(

Perhaps someone else out there on fordbarn has an excellent face-on picture of a good gear that you could print, draw a line on, and count of you don't have the old one or another known good gear. I'd do it but I'm leaving for French Lick tomorrow AM and still have 9,378 things to do. Don't panic. A few years ago I R&R 'd a 4x4 transfer case in my Blazer, only to find it didn't work. Second teardown revealed my replacement parts had shaft detents that didn't match the originals. I assumed when I should have checked. Oops.
 
ill have to do this tomorrow, luckily our mouth model a meet is tomorrow so im sure i can get some help/input on my situation. Thanks for the info.

As for the other stuff i was talking about not rotating the cam i forgot the gear only goes on one way so just ignore that.
 
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