Amp Meter

Tom F OHIO

Tom F OHIO

Well-known member
Was on a all day trip last Saturday and when we started out my amp meter was working fine but it had condensation in the glass. Also it felt warm to the touch on the glass as we were driving. The condensation finally went away but it still felt pretty warm all day. Should I replace the amp meter???

Thanks,
Tom....
 
No, Just clean and tighten the terminals. If it's an original amp meter it will take a special wrench to remove, clean, and tighten the nuts.
 
I replaced my amp meter with a volt meter for snyders. That heat you felt is resistance and resistance is trouble, especially that close to the gas tank. The volt meter Snyders sells is a drop in (almost) and does much better then an amp meter, and it wont leave you on the side of the road. And has a built in light. Love it. Iceman
 
Ice man said:
I replaced my amp meter with a volt meter for snyders. That heat you felt is resistance and resistance is trouble, especially that close to the gas tank. The volt meter Snyders sells is a drop in (almost) and does much better then an amp meter, and it wont leave you on the side of the road. And has a built in light. Love it. Iceman
Click to expand...

Iceman,Volt meters are very handy. I changed out many amp meters on my tractors . I also mounted them on the back of the air breathers/cleaners on both my Harley Davidson's.The picture on the right is the bracket I machined to mount the meters on the "Bikes"
 
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Is there one for 6 volt systems, looks like that one is for 12 volt only, would not read very well on 6 volt would it? Bruce

( I know your HD is 12volt )

Nice job!
 
On repop ameters I always tighten the nuts on the back before installation to prevent that sort of problem. Seems they are usually loose.
 
On original meters the terminals are the ends of carriage bolts thru the meter shunt. The hardware on these terminal bolts comes loose and the resistance of the poor connection at the shunt causes heat and often arcing. Clean the shunt connections and solder the bolts to the shunt with resin core solder. The solder helps maintain a good connection even if the hardware comes loose.
 
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