7 tooth worm- distance from end of shaft

Ayers1

Ayers1

Well-known member
I am rebuilding the 7 tooth sector on my car because of very stiff steering. I found the major issue, the upper bushing was not reamed to fit the steering shaft. My concern now is the distance from the end of the worm to the end of the shaft. should it be against the retaining clip? Should it be a certain distance from the end of the shaft? Mine is 2 1/4 inches from end of shaft, but not touching the retaining clip. I looked in Les Andrews book but didnt see any specs on this. Thanks for your help.
 

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I can’t give a definite answer but I just picked up a 7-tooth shaft and it looks just like yours. I believe the critical measurement is from the tip of the shaft at the steering wheel end to the bottom of the worm gear. However I don’t know exactly what this should measure. Mine is about 42”.
 
OK thanks! I'll have to check mine and see what it measures. I was concerened because it didnt look like the keeper was "keeping" anything. I know the worm is pressed on but you never know if a previous owner has done it properly.
 
that worm has to be pressed rite down to the clip. the clip fits inside the recess of the worm gear.

also the end of your shaft appears to be a bit ruff. it may clean up with some fine emery so as to not score the bushing too badly.
 
The two 7 tooth boxes/columns that recently passed across my work bench the worm was "slip on" to the shaft. This surprised me since my previous box rebuilding experience was with a two tooth which is a very solid "press on" arrangement.

Examining the shaft I saw that the shaft includes a "shoulder" that is made into the shaft, just below the clip you show. Hence "gravity" makes the shaft drop to the bottom restrained by the lower bushing. The clip appears included to limit "up" movement against the worm.

Meanwhile, the worm is restrained on both upper and lower sides by the thrust bearings (same bearing used on the Model A Kingpins)

Thus the two parts are held in relation only by the 6 sided spline. A lateral/longitudinal movement is possible but limited.

Note also that the rebuild kits usually include a variety of 4-holed gaskets for use with the lower bushing. The gaskets act as "adjustment" for the tightness of the thrust bearings. Too little gasket and the bearings "bind" - too much and it introduces "free motion" to the sector. Some vendors (Berts) will sell copper/brass gasket shims for this area. Most "kits" are common brown paper which seemingly work fine.

Joe K
 
Last edited:
old ugly said:
that worm has to be pressed rite down to the clip. the clip fits inside the recess of the worm gear.

also the end of your shaft appears to be a bit ruff. it may clean up with some fine emery so as to not score the bushing too badly.
Click to expand...
Thanks old ugly, I have a new bushing ordered and once it arrives Ill clean the shaft up.
 
Joe K said:
The two 7 tooth boxes/columns that recently passed across my work bench the worm was "slip on" to the shaft. This surprised me since my previous box rebuilding experience was with a two tooth which is a very solid "press on" arrangement.

Examining the shaft I saw that the shaft includes a "shoulder" that is made into the shaft, just below the clip you show. Hence "gravity" makes the shaft drop to the bottom restrained by the lower bushing. The clip appears included to limit "up" movement against the worm.

Meanwhile, the worm is restrained on both upper and lower sides by the thrust bearings (same bearing used on the Model A Kingpins)

Thus the two parts are held in relation only by the 6 sided spline. A lateral/longitudinal movement is possible but limited.

Note also that the rebuild kits usually include a variety of 4-holed gaskets for use with the lower bushing. The gaskets act as "adjustment" for the tightness of the thrust bearings. Too little gasket and the bearings "bind" - too little and it introduces "free motion" to the sector. Some vendors (Berts) will sell copper/brass gasket shims for this area. Most "kits" are common brown paper which seemingly work fine.

Joe K
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information Joe! Mine looks like it had a bunch of parts replaced and had very little wear. the only exception was the lower bushing. It also had 4 brass shims on the bottom cover. This is Definitely going to make it steer better!
 
Keep those shims. Almost no one sells them anymore, including Bert’s. Sacramento Vintage Ford still had a few sets last I checked.
 
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