The Merc

[RobWi]

Well, time to start on the next engine. This is the fifth. Even though number 3 is now completely tore down and with it's compromised cylinders making it a different type of project, it is being set aside. It will make it through the winter just fine. Number 4, spins over easily now and still trying to decide whether to fire it up and winterize it. Number 5 though, is still stuck.

Have had it soaking in ATF/acetone mix for the better part of the month, but no go so far. So, it looks like I will start to break it down, categorize the nuts, bolts, and parts as I go while evaluating the subject the best I can.

Time to get my trailer available for another haul of engines in the event my source wants me to pick them up. Just in case though as they are in a dry, large farm building and probably pretty comfy. Still, have to keep in mind the gentleman that offered them to me is pushing 90 and if the inevitable happens sooner than later, his off spring might not be so willing to let me have them. So have to have the trailer ready along with the cradles.

Believe this is '53 EAC, but have not figured out the block code yet.

 

[petehoovie]

Well, time to start on the next engine. This is the fifth. Even though number 3 is now completely tore down and with it's compromised cylinders making it a different type of project, it is being set aside. It will make it through the winter just fine. Number 4, spins over easily now and still trying to decide whether to fire it up and winterize it. Number 5 though, is still stuck.

Have had it soaking in ATF/acetone mix for the better part of the month, but no go so far. So, it looks like I will start to break it down, categorize the nuts, bolts, and parts as I go while evaluating the subject the best I can.

Time to get my trailer available for another haul of engines in the event my source wants me to pick them up. Just in case though as they are in a dry, large farm building and probably pretty comfy. Still, have to keep in mind the gentleman that offered them to me is pushing 90 and if the inevitable happens sooner than later, his off spring might not be so willing to let me have them. So have to have the trailer ready along with the cradles.

Believe this is '53 EAC, but have not figured out the block code yet.

 

[tubman]

That block code is meaningless as far as I know. You can't even depend on how the heads are marked, as things have been changed so often over the last 75 years. The remnants of color on it and the clutch bolt pattern do say "Mercury" to me, though. I have also found that most Mercury engines have a cast cover over the oil pump drive gears (behind) the flywheel, while Fords usually have stamped steel plates.I have also found that Mercury's usually have a more rounded fitting on the oil, filter, while Fords have squared ones. (These ,last two are just my personal observations and probably don't mean much.)

 

[RobWi]

Update: Have started to tear down the '53 Merc. Have soaked the cylinders for almost a month now with no indication of loosening up.

After removing the intake manifold and bathing the valley in Mineral Spirits for a couple days, the valve springs are now visible again.

Note the intake valve on #6 cylinder must be stuck open. Have filled the port with ATF/Acetone mix and will give it a couple of swats with a hammer in a day or to. Hopefully the valve spring will have enough tension to over come the resistance. Check the arrows.

Also, does anyone have an idea as to how to get enough grasp on the internal water pump bolt before I round it off. It appears that there are a couple of casting flaws near the bolt head that does not allow my socket to get a good grab of the bolt head. Any ideas?????

 

[petehoovie]

Update: Have started to tear down the '53 Merc. Have soaked the cylinders for almost a month now with no indication of loosening up.

After removing the intake manifold and bathing the valley in Mineral Spirits for a couple days, the valve springs are now visible again.

Note the intake valve on #6 cylinder must be stuck open. Have filled the port with ATF/Acetone mix and will give it a couple of swats with a hammer in a day or to. Hopefully the valve spring will have enough tension to over come the resistance. Check the arrows.

Also, does anyone have an idea as to how to get enough grasp on the internal water pump bolt before I round it off. It appears that there are a couple of casting flaws near the bolt head that does not allow my socket to get a good grab of the bolt head. Any ideas?????

 

[tubman]

Can you get a die grinder in there to knock down the obstructions? Also, use a a 6 point socket, and grind the end absolutely flat before trying to use it. (Most sockets have a rounded off "business end" that causes you to lose a few thousandths of contact with the fastener. This has worked for me a couple of times.)

 

[RobWi]

Can you get a die grinder in there to knock down the obstructions? Also, use a a 6 point socket, and grind the end absolutely flat before trying to use it. (Most sockets have a rounded off "business end" that causes you to lose a few thousandths of contact with the fastener. This has worked for me a couple of times.)

Thank you, that is my thought also. Seems like a lot of work, makes one wonder if the witness marks on the end of the bolt head were made when whomever installed the water pump.

 

[Bored&Stroked]

Usually the issue is just rust and corrosion on the head of the bolt. I use a 6-point socket and a hammer to drive it on the bolt end and then use an impact wrench on low to try to get it out of there. On reassembly, I always use stainless bolts with a lot of anti-seize on them!

BTW: That engine looks like a pretty clean engine (the valley is not all sludged up). Hopefully it is a great candidate for a fun build!

 

[tubman]

Usually the issue is just rust and corrosion on the head of the bolt. I use a 6-point socket and a hammer to drive it on the bolt end and then use an impact wrench on low to try to get it out of there. On reassembly, I always use stainless bolts with a lot of anti-seize on them!

BTW: That engine looks like a pretty clean engine (the valley is not all sludged up). Hopefully it is a great candidate for a fun build!

As he said earlier : "After removing the intake manifold and bathing the valley in Mineral Spirits for a couple days, the valve springs are now visible again."

I have found Impact sockets have the tightest fit in general, but they often have the big rounded lip on the business end. Again, grinding them dead flat on that surface can pick you up .030-.040" of purchase on the bolt.

 

[glennpm]

I have found Impact sockets have the tightest fit in general, but they often have the big rounded lip on the business end. Again, grinding them dead flat on that surface can pick you up .030-.040" of purchase on the bolt.

Try a 14 mm, 0.551 vs 9/16" ( 0.5625) impact socket and air wrench. Sometimes try to tighten by hand first. I keep this chart in my tool box.

 

[RobWi]

Try a 14 mm, 0.551 vs 9/16" ( 0.5625) impact socket and air wrench. Sometimes try to tighten by hand first. I keep this chart in my tool box.

Just picked up a special 6 pt 14.1mm socket, Snap On says is specifically for 9/16 rounded off bolts. Measures at .555", will see how it works.

Tried to chisel the lumps surrounding the bolt head, just not getting anywhere. Has to be part of the casting, it is that hard.

 

[RobWi]

Just an update as far as the stuck intake valve on #6. After a week of soaking it (filled the intake port up with 50/50 ATF-acetone mix), I tapped the valve spring assembly with a small ball peen hammer. The valve dropped. All the valves now move effortlessly up and down with a crow bar. Pistons must still be locked... more soaking and will try again before taking the heads off.

 

[petehoovie]

Just an update as far as the stuck intake valve on #6. After a week of soaking it (filled the intake port up with 50/50 ATF-acetone mix), I tapped the valve spring assembly with a small ball peen hammer. The valve dropped. All the valves now move effortlessly up and down with a crow bar. Pistons must still be locked... more soaking and will try again before taking the heads off.

 

[tubman]

Just picked up a special 6 pt 14.1mm socket, Snap On says is specifically for 9/16 rounded off bolts. Measures at .555", will see how it works.

Tried to chisel the lumps surrounding the bolt head, just not getting anywhere. Has to be part of the casting, it is that hard.

This sounds like a good idea. Unfortunately, metric sockets are in short supply in my shop.

 

[glennpm]

Thank you, that is my thought also. Seems like a lot of work, makes one wonder if the witness marks on the end of the bolt head were made when whomever installed the water pump.

I'd tilt the motor back on the flywheel end with a slight tilt toward the front. Fill the pump cavity up with your mix or better, get some Rust-911 and soak. Agitate it with a small wire brush as it soaks. The Rust-911 would be good later to soak all the water passages.

https://www.rust911.com/rust911-rust-remover-16x-ultra-concentrate-1-gallon-makes-16-gallons/

 

[pistonbroke]

I have heated those bolts to red hot then let them cool over night and they came out without twisting or rounding off. Tim

 

[glennpm]

I have heated those bolts to red hot then let them cool over night and they came out without twisting or rounding off. Tim

Yes, probably the best way to do it.

 

[Tim Ayers]

I have heated those bolts to red hot then let them cool over night and they came out without twisting or rounding off. Tim

Came to say this. If you have an induction heating bolt busting tool, even better. Heat, cool, soak. Heat, cool, soak.

Also, a trick I've learned is to tighten the bolt ever so slightly at first before trying to back it out. Sometimes working it back and forth ever so slightly to help break the rust bond.

Either way, heat is going to be your friend with that bolt.

 

[RobWi]

Came to say this. If you have an induction heating bolt busting tool, even better. Heat, cool, soak. Heat, cool, soak.

Also, a trick I've learned is to tighten the bolt ever so slightly at first before trying to back it out. Sometimes working it back and forth ever so slightly to help break the rust bond.

Either way, heat is going to be your friend with that bolt.

The other side broke loose fairly easily. Believe this one would too, if I could get a good bite on it. Those lumps along side the bolt head are not allowing me to get the socket all the way down the head. Too busy to attack it today, maybe tomorrow

 

[rotorwrench]

I have a long center punch and drill bit I use to drill the crusty bolt heads out of there. If it's loose then a person needs long nose vise grips. I've not had to cut a water pump off yet.

If you want to insure it has a Merc 255 crank, pull the pan and measure across one of the counterweight cheeks. A 4-inch frank is 6.5" across the cheek. It has the characteristics of an EAC but there's only one way to really tell.