37 Ford steering box removal from column

Chucks363window

Chucks363window

Junior Member
Well,i just got the 37 steering box with column attached for my 36 and wondered after loosening the clamp , (the steering wheel is off) the column is loose and slides up away from the box about an inch and then hits something inside the tube, can anyone tell me how to remove , i want to send just the box out for a rebuild, thank you ( first time early ford V8 for me) oh just to be clear the whole unit is out on the work bench.
 
Chucks363window said:
i want to send just the box out for a rebuild, thank you ( first time early ford V8 for me) oh just to be clear the whole unit is out on the work bench.
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Besides the advice on the lock, note that the steering box will have the steering shaft sticking out of it. sorry if you already know this.

s-l500.webp
 
Hello, I've recently disassembled a couple steering column assemblies while upgrading my 35 . On one of them I encountered a second upper bearing that was just above the lock collar. When I got the mast jacket up about an inch it stopped. I still had the column drop secured to the mast jacket and just used a dead blow hammer to lightly drive the mast jacket up. As it slid up the bearing tightened on the unworn and somewhat rusty steering shaft. I thing you might just need to get more aggressive with the mast jacket. And as some others have requested in your other posts, I would also like to see more pictures of your 3 Window.
 
The key is in it, and the on/off lever won’t move ,seems to hit something that stops it, the chrome button on the side is also pushed in and stuck
 
Yes there is like a welded washer in the tube about the same place as the lock, I found that out when trying to replace the rubber/ bronze bushing, it is easy to replace using a hook.
 
Glenn, mine still has the tube that slides over the shaft you show in your picture, i have removed the clamp bolt and clamp is loose. When i slide the tube up away from the box it moves about an inch and hit something, also the key turns with little resistance and the on/off toggle is stuck between on and off with the chrome button stuck in
 
Well, tapped a bit and the ‘mast jacket’ slid off, now i have a box, with pitman arm and steering column ( mast) is this the way you send them off for rebuild? Reminder this a 1937 ford assembly that i am putting into a 36. Do i use the 36 column shaft and jacket or the 37? Also same question for the pitman arm , looks like glennpm’s pic from above except with pitman arm still attached
 
Chucks363window said:
Well, tapped a bit and the ‘mast jacket’ slid off, now i have a box, with pitman arm and steering column ( mast) is this the way you send them off for rebuild? Reminder this a 1937 ford assembly that i am putting into a 36. Do i use the 36 column shaft and jacket or the 37? Also same question for the pitman arm , looks like glennpm’s pic from above except with pitman arm still attached
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The Masts are the same for 35-37 cars so use the best one you have.

I'd open up the cover on the box and look at the gear engagement surfaces to see if they're still good. If visually fine, put the cover on and adjust the engagement as an additional check. Take it apart again and buy the bearing and seals and you can refresh it yourself.

Yes, to rebuild you would send the box and shaft minus the pitman arm off to the rebuilder.
 
A little more info:

- Rotate the steering shaft through its whole range
- Count the number of turns, lock to lock. Temporary mounting of the steering wheel helps but not necessary.
- Divide the number of turns by 2 and rotate from one stop to this center position. This is where you will look for pits or an obvious concave depression

Vanpelt has a good Ford procedure and sketches for adjustment at this link:

https://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_steerngear_adjstmt1937-48.htm
 
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