Scraped Fender - Paint Repair Tips?

well it goes like this as a boy my mother was an artist =? are all tuxedo cats black and white ? she said come with me, grabbed Richard, went out side,his black & plop"d him in the snow his black coat had a touch of brick red and back inside he turned black again ther ya go
 
Glen, there is only black , no shades there of . You can add metalic or do a base clear but black is black. Any thing els is a dark blue, gray, red or whatever color they started with. Black is the best color when touchup is needed. Fading would be your only concern. Tim
 
Thanks Tim, I bought a small bottle of gloss black with brush, tried a small amount in the scratch and it looks good to me. Haven't been able to spend any more time on it yet though.
 
I'm now at this point in my repair and looking for tips to blend the edges into the parent paint.

I have used small wood blocks, popsicle wrapped sticks and small sheet of red rubber wrapped. The last sanding was with wet & dry 600. I have 800, 1000, 500 and 3000 grits.

Any suggestions, perhaps small dots of paper on something with a slight dome to it?
What have you done with good results please?

The dimensions of the repair are 1" X 2.5" within the masking tape in this picture.

590609
 
pistonbroke said:
Glen, there is only black , no shades there of . You can add metalic or do a base clear but black is black. Any thing els is a dark blue, gray, red or whatever color they started with. Black is the best color when touchup is needed. Fading would be your only concern. Tim
Click to expand...

Oh my, with due respect, you are so wrong. Black is perhaps the most difficult (non)color to match.
White is yet another (non)color that is extremely difficult to match.
 
glennpm said:
I'm now at this point in my repair and looking for tips to blend the edges into the parent paint.

I have used small wood blocks, popsicle wrapped sticks and small sheet of red rubber wrapped. The last sanding was with wet & dry 600. I have 800, 1000, 500 and 3000 grits.

Any suggestions, perhaps small dots of paper on something with a slight dome to it?
What have you done with good results please?

The dimensions of the repair are 1" X 2.5" within the masking tape in this picture.

590609
Click to expand...

no offence intended, but that picture looks like a bad asphalt patch on my drivway
 
Glen , now you need to take all of your masking off and very carfully wet sand (lots of water so you can whats happening) with a hard rubber or wood flat block cutting the new filler paint bringing it down end blend it into the level of the original paint. Patiants is key here. Then buff with thousand an then fifteen hundred . Pollish and wax . I normaly pull up a chair, turn on a ballgame or a book on youtube and maybe a cold snack. I've done more of this type of repair then I can remember and the black ones always were the easiest for me. Tim
 
I punched out a few dots of 1000 and 1500 wet & Dry and then glued them firmly with a glue gun to the ends of a short dowel. I made sure they were flat to the dowel ends. I twisted the dowel insuring that I was perpendicular to the fender. I've used this technique in the past.

The patch ridges are just about gone. I sanded with the dowel the tape ridges somewhat and will now remove all the tape and block sand it.

590669


590668
 
Still poking at this repair and don't know what the issue is now. I used a gloss ink black spray can. The color match was excellent but now with sanding, 2000, 3000 and latest 5000, the masked area is gray! Color was right on until I started wet sanding.

- Sprayed under ideal humidity and temperature conditions
- Let patch dry thoroughly for two days and had light bulb heat under the repair to cure it at ~110° F

Any ideas and please let's not talk about matching black paint again.

591243
 
Glenn, Did you apply sealer, then black epoxy primer, then black acrylic enamel top coat?
Also, let it dry in the open air without any heat from a lamp, etc.
 
19Fordy said:
Glenn, Did you apply sealer, then black epoxy primer, then black acrylic enamel top coat?
Also, let it dry in the open air without any heat from a lamp, etc.
Click to expand...

The damage didn't get to bare metal, primer from original paint was still intact. I sanded the damage and used a "final wash" chemical before spraying.
I did let it air dry overnight before putting the 75 watt incandescent bulb under the bottom at that time for another 24 hours or so. No sealer applied. Paint was compatible which I tested before spraying.

The top coat was a Rustoleum ink black gloss spray can paint and like mentioned, the spray and the adjacent paint matched great.
 
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