Tick/Tap

T

TMarsh

Senior Member
Purchased a Budd cab 31 from an estate. It is unknown the condition of the motor. It starts good, runs good, does not leak excessive oil, no smoke. I adjusted the valves to try to eliminate tick. Have two other A's and the do not have this noise. Sounds like an exhaust leak so I installed a new manifold, gaskets and a new Aries muffler. Noise still there. Does not sound like rod knock, more like manifold leak. Suggestions????
 
The back of the exhaust manifold is drooping, allowing exhaust to escape. That creates the ticking sound you are hearing. Remove the manifold and run a metal straight edge across the tops of the ports. #4 exhaust runner will below the other three ports. The only solution is a new exhaust manifold. It will cure a multitude of problems.
Marshall
 
Locate the source of the noise. Use a mechanic's stethoscope. You can also use a wooden dowel held to your ear and the other end on parts of the engine. To locate an exhaust leak you can use a small hose held to your ear and the other end moved around to different parts of the engine.
 
Another thought: were the exhaust and intake manifolds surfaced as one piece prior to installation?
 
Also check the muffler's pipe flange where it mates with the exhaust manifold. It can be bent or distorted to the point that it will never seal against the exhaust manifold's lip. Some older mufflers have flanges that are too narrow to be clamped and hold the muffler pipe in place.
It's also easy to attach the muffler pipe flange at a slight angle, which will create a gap on the opposite side for exhaust to escape. Even with a new Aires muffler and new exhaust manifold, I always smear a coat of muffler sealant around the muffler pipe's flange. Ensure that the flange is straight up and down against the exhaust manifold, not cocked to one side or the other. Use a floor jack beneath the muffler to raise and steady the muffler pipe when you line it up. Jack up high enough so that the two pieces seat against each other and then install the two clamp halves. Tighten the nuts so that the clamps will secure the pieces together snugly and straight. If you still have a ticking exhaust leak sound afterwards, double check the suggestions made so far.
Marshall
 
Another thought - Even with a new Aires muffler, I have had to bend the vertical pipe forward to make it line up straight with the exhaust manifold. Otherwise, the flange was cocked at an angle in front and back. Use a torch and heat at the bend and then use a long pry bar or drive shaft shoved down into the vertical pipe to complete the bend. You can lay the muffler on the ground sideways and judge if the vertical connecting pipe is straight up and down.
M.
 
the first thing i thought was the muffler to manifold clamp. but with all new probably unlikely. unless the new muffler flange is not long enough.

maybe the oil pump is wiggling in the the boss. you may be able to check that by using an oil pump holder in the extermal gallery hole to hold the pump, see if that stops the noise.

i have a cheep stethoscope from amazon , works good, worth the pennys, i listen to lots of funny noises with it
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I have addressed them all except the oil pump issue. I'll try that next. I will also get a stethoscope to help penpoint the source of the tik.
 
I had a tick for the longest time. Could not pin point the noise. Turned out my timing gear nut came loose.
 
Some cam gears are 2 piece fiber/metal and loosen at the joint. Use your stethoscope but watch out for the fan.
 
It might be your timing gear making the ticking sound. Run this test. Remove the timing pin and start engine. Take a short piece of wood dowel 2" long x1/4" or 3/8' dia and radius the end. Insert dowel in the timing pin hole and force it against the rotating timing gear surface. If the ticking sound stops replace your timing gear.
 
Shorted out #4 noise stopped. Dropped pan, looks excellent but going to check with plastigauge. Did notice timing gear shreaded, need recomendation of type gear to get.
 
Could it be pistron slap in number 4 pot or what you guys call the wrist pin?
Every engine I have built/rebuilt has had an aluminium timing gear put in it. NO issues.
 
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