Advice on setting clutch pressure plate.

Mr meteor

Member
I am hoping to get some advice on adjusting the 3 bolts on the clutch pressure plate which control the fingers. I understand that all the fingers need to be set the same height in order to make contact with the throw-out bearing. I just got a new unit and right now all the bolts are all the way tight and the pressure plate is lifted about 3/16 but I have no idea if that is correct. Hoping for some guidance. Thanks
 
You would check it with a clutch disk in place. I've installed many clutches over my life, and never checked those finger heights. Perhaps with the new crap they sell us now it may be good to check. Note that usually those 3 bolts have a slot cut in them, to lock them in place from the factory. You got new parts? from where? engine on a stand yet?
 
You would check it with a clutch disk in place. I've installed many clutches over my life, and never checked those finger heights. Perhaps with the new crap they sell us now it may be good to check. Note that usually those 3 bolts have a slot cut in them, to lock them in place from the factory. You got new parts? from where? engine on a stand yet?

Thanks
It’s an old clutch. The engine is on a run stand. Yes the clutch fingers have three small bolts at their ends with slots cut in them but I’m speaking about the big bolts that hold the clutch fingers to the clutch cover. Right now they are fully tight and there is a gap between the pressure plate and the work bench. As I loosen them that gap closes. I assume that there is a best practice as to where to set this adjustment.
 
Maybe a few photos would be a good idea...

The three bolts which secure the fingers to the black cover are currently tightened all the way
4TFCocmm.jpg


When viewed from the side, the pressure plate is lifted off the bench
5KlooWmm.jpg


That gap is about 3 1/16
nbVV4Tjm.jpg
 
The three larger bolts remain tight and are not an adjustment. Slight gap between the face of the PP and a flat surface will be taken up by the clutch plate. When you tighten the PP to the flywheel you can see the three fingers of the PP move toward the clutch plate slightly and away from the PP frame. With the PP off the flywheel the three fingers are resting on the PP steel frame
 
I've installed many clutches over my life, and never checked those finger heights.


Cas: I have installed quite a few pressure plates myself and hung around garages all my life and NEVER saw any mechanic measure the fingers. Most of this was in the day when all pressure plates were made in the good old USA. I guess we were just trustworthy. "Those were the days my friend, I thought they'd never end" lalalalala
 
Like most people have said, the fingers are supposed to be pre-set. I was a mechanic for the phone company for 30-years and installed hundreds of clutches and never checked a one and they always worked. But as they wear out if the clutch has been abused the fingers can develop different heights, you can feel it when you push the clutch in, you can just feel maybe one of the fingers start to make contact before the other two do, eventually the clutch will start to chatter when you start out. It really would be a good idea to verify the height of the three fingers are exactly the same once the clutch is tightened down. Maybe by placing the throw-out bearing on the fork and seeing that it touches the fingers evenly. We used to install only brand-new factory clutches because we had some problem with some of the rebuilds. I just put a new one in my daughters Scion after 150K miles, it costs a lot more for a new Toyota clutch, but I didn't want any problems with it. I had the flywheel surfaced, new throw-bearing. New pressure plate bolts. I used a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to factory specs. I always torque the pressure plate bolts. I'm lucky to have a hoist at home or that would have been a nightmare for this old-timer.
 
Thanks
As I loosen them that gap closes. I assume that there is a best practice as to where to set this adjustment.

These three bolts have no influence on the height of the pressure plate surface at any point when the pressure plate is sitting on a bench or fastened to the flywheel. (Not in the car).

I do not see a way for the pressure plate surface height to change as you suggested.

I've never adjusted them in all the years I've been working on these beasts, but maybe I should check them especially on used clutches.
 
Appreciate you sharing your experiences. I have left them tight after getting advice here.

My theory as to why the gap between the pressure plate and the bench was changing is because when they were loose there was a gap between the bolt head and the surface of the fingers which was allowing pressure plate to move relative to the cover plate under the tension of the springs.
 
I finally got a chance to go work on the car this weekend and I measured the variation between the height of the clutch levers and got 8 thou at the max. I am hoping this is within the tolerance.

I also got a chance to measure from the housing to the levers and compare it to the 7/8" recommended in the Ford book shared by Kurt. I got 5/8 instead of 7/8 but when I compensated for the fact that I had a 1/4 disc in there rather than the recommended 0.340 inch thickness the difference is 0.16, so again, I'm hoping this is within tolerances.

Thanks to everyone who shared their thoughts and advice on this thread.

I'll leave you with a couple photos of the bellhousing ready for the transmission. I am hoping the next steps go smoothly.

oUp3p9zm.jpg

RfXV4cxm.jpg
 
I think the.008" will be fine. The reason I did mine was that I had .050" and .045". I can't advise you on the clutch disk difference.
 
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