infrared laser thermometer

Flathead Fever said:
I just go down to Lowes or Home Depot, there about all that's left anyway. The ones they carry should be pretty accurate. If you don't find it one the tool department look in the separate tool section with the electrical stuff. I was a mechanic for 30-years and those are one of the handiest tools to own. You can use it to check different outside temps in the tubes of the radiator, looking for block tubes. You can look at the difference in the inlet and outlets tubes to see how much the radiator is lowering the temperature. You can look at exhaust manifold ports to see if they are all running the same temperature. You can sit in the house and shoot the dog with it and see what temp he's running at, all kinds of fun stuff.
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Re: infrared laser thermometer
That's a good idea! Thanks for that... I need to do some testing on my own,.
 
tubman said:
This doesn't seem right. You shouldn't have to block the radiator if the thermostats were doing their job. Is this an 8BA or earlier engine? If an 8BA, I would try a new set of thermostats. Like I posted, you should be able to actually see them working on the temperature gauge (especially a good mechanical one.) If an earlier engine, I would suspect units that have been displaced from their proper locations, and are now "cocked" so they don't restrict the flow, or are jammed open.

This is one situation where "if it ain't broke. don't fix it" doesn't work for me.
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Yes, I need to do some checking. It doesn't make sense to me either.
I installed 180° thermostats in the top of the Edlebrock heads on my 59A.
They are Bob Drake 11A-8575-A thermostats for 1937 to 1948 flatheads.
I have hose clamps above and the manifold snout below both thermostats too. I'll check temps with my HF infared heat thermosmeter someday.

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“have hose clamps above and the manifold snout below both thermostats“
Was that a mis-type? Clamps should be above the stats to keep them from rotating within the hose.
 
Kube said:
I have long wondered why one of my flatty's operates better with stats and another does not. I rebuild all of them to the same standards. I only have 21 and 24 stud motors and nothing after '48.
I know very little about the later blocks other than what I have read.
Ah, the mysteries...
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Actually, I believe what you posted here backs up my contention that Ford engineers DID make significant worthwhile changes with the 8BA series of engines. I have no doubt that you build your engines consistently to the highest standards. Why then the variability in your results running thermostats? In my opinion, it's got to be something in the basic design of the cooling systems. There must be something in the design of the earlier system that has more effect on coolant flow than the thermostats have. We all know there was a major design change on the cooling system for the 8BA series, and it seems to have worked! I'm sure Ford wouldn't have expended the time and money on the redesign unless they knew they would get significant benefits from the change. Sort of like the significant benefits they gained by moving the pumps from the heads down to the block.

Additional information : It is my understanding that Ford didn't even start using thermostats until 1933. If that's the case, then the flathead was designed originally to not have them. No wonder they didn't work that well to begin with. It seems it took them 15 years to completely correct that deficiency.

Another reason I'm an "8BA guy".:cool:
 
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tubman said:
Actually, I believe what you posted here backs up my contention that Ford engineers DID make significant worthwhile changes with the 8BA series of engines. I have no doubt that you build your engines consistently to the highest standards. Why then the variability in your results running thermostats? In my opinion, it's got to be something in the basic design of the cooling systems. There must be something in the design of the earlier system that has more effect on coolant flow than the thermostats have. We all know there was a major design change on the cooling system for the 8BA series, and it seems to have worked! I'm sure Ford wouldn't have expended the time and money on the redesign unless they knew they would get significant benefits from the change.

Another reason I'm an "8BA guy".:cool:
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I remember this a few months back when someone was asking about head gaskets.

"The small holes in Ford 8BA head gaskets are intentional design features used to regulate and control coolant flow, not manufacturing errors or damage. These restrictive passages ensure even cooling distribution across all cylinders, particularly preventing overheating in the rear cylinders"
 

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glennpm said:
I run 180° thermostats. even with them, if I don't block part of my radiator, it won't get above 140°.

"The best efficient temperature for a car’s engine coolant is between 195°F and 220°F (90°C to 104°C). Within this range, combustion efficiency is optimized, fuel consumption is minimized, and emissions are reduced. Specifically, 202°F (94°C) is identified as the peak temperature for maximum combustion efficiency and fuel mileage"
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I have the same problem in my 1953 8BA with EAB heads. I removed the old tstats that had holes drilled in them. Purchased new 180 degree ones. Dropped them in a pot with water and turned up the heat, measuring with a thermometer to check when they opened. They checked out fine. When installing, the slant of the thermostat housing makes it difficult to stay in place. so I used a little gasket sealer to hold them in the proper position. I'm still running at 140F with both temp gauge and HF laser temp tool :mad:. It doesn't make sense. I going to start over again, maybe they slipped out of place, is my only thought.
 
solidaxle said:
I have the same problem in my 1953 8BA with EAB heads. I removed the old tstats that had holes drilled in them. Purchased new 180 degree ones. Dropped them in a pot with water and turned up the heat, measuring with a thermometer to check when they opened. They checked out fine. When installing, the slant of the thermostat housing makes it difficult to stay in place. so I used a little gasket sealer to hold them in the proper position. I'm still running at 140F with both temp gauge and HF laser temp tool :mad:. It doesn't make sense. I going to start over again, maybe they slipped out of place, is my only thought.
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Very interesting and glad you posted.

A few days ago after a ride, I checked both sides of my 59A; the Edelbrock heads close to the coolant outlets, the outlets before the thermostats and just above the thermostats. Either side of the thermostats measured about 180 degrees with the heads higher by maybe 20 degrees I think..

I checked my records and didn't find any notes on drilling a larger hole in the stats so I believe they are just as supplied by Bob Drake, 11A-8575-A thermostats.

If I don't block part of the radiator, it heats up to 140 degrees slowly and stays there. Baffling ...

I'll post my homemade "Winterfront" setup.
 
This is an interesting discussion. On my 59L that is bored 3 3/8th + .030" for 292", I run 180 stats in both heads. I have Skip's pumps, Walker radiator and cleaned every spec of gunk out of the water passages before getting it cleaned. I run water and I am confident the water is making contact with all sides of the water jackets.

Prior to installing them, I could not get the engine up to temp. With them, it will now get to around 190 degrees with NO FAN. Only on the hottest, humid days and running in stop and go traffic do I need to reinstall the fan.
 
I also have Skip Hanley water pumps which replaced Ford truck ones a few years ago when they started leaking. My radiator is way over what is required too. I bought mine from Custom Auto radiator, brass tanks, 3-1/2" thick with 5 rows of fins. I bought this with the early idea of running a blower.

My "Winterfront", patent pending :-), is a dark blue hemmed cotton hand towel. I have long zip ties at the end of a wood rod, inserted through the towel hem. Inside the engine bay, the zip ties come up and are very easily adjusted for height. With the dark blue color, it is almost undetectable. I put a bright flash on the pics below so it could be seen.

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This is what the long zip ties look like inside.

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